Replies

1. 
   joeh | May 07, 2003 11:37pm | #1

   You can add a block of 1x on each side of the pipe up from the valve, to keep it from moving side to side. Or dado a piece of 2x to fit over the pipe. About as solid as needed that way, can't be pulled forward or sideways.

   Joe H

1. 
   ScottMatson | May 08, 2003 01:18am | #2

   do it Joe's way or take the 1x and use it like regular horizontal blocking between studs with the level of the elbow centered on it. I usually do all the blocking for the bathroom at this time, towel and robe bars, toilet paper holders, mirror backing, etc.

2. 
   brianspages | May 08, 2003 05:12am | #3

   if those were friends of yours that have the loose showerheads, you can recommend to them to pull the flange plate around the shower arm back and spray some foam insulation behind the tub wall...

   brian

3. 
   Wet_Head | May 08, 2003 07:02am | #4

   If you are using copper pipe for the riser make sure your blocking extends below the drop-ear 90 several inches.  Then put a 2-hole strap on the pipe 2 inches below the drop-ear 90.

   The number one reason I see in the field for loose shower arms is... ready?

   Fastening the drop-ear 90 with NAILS!  Unbelievable but true! 

   The number two thing I see is when they use short screws.  Like 3/4"  Won't work.  Use a 2x4 for your blocking and use 1 1/2" screws.  #10 size is fine. 

   I like 'em rock solid!

1. 
   RalphWicklund | May 08, 2003 07:28am | #5

   It's that soap on a rope that causes all those pullout problems with the shower head. Plus all those shenanigans that go on when two think they can shower cheaper than one.

   We do a number of bathroom remodels and in just about all there are two nails just bent around the riser to hold it in place. So much for the craftsmen of yesteryear<G>

   Edited 5/8/2003 12:37:45 AM ET by Ralph Wicklund

1. 
   Wet_Head | May 08, 2003 07:35am | #6

   That is why I try to upsell the client into 2 shower faucets and heads in larger showers!

   And then I mount my arms at 84".  If they want a lower head I use 10" shower arms instead of the standard 6" ones.

1. 
   CAGIV | May 08, 2003 07:40am | #7

   lol

   I could really turn this thread down hill, but on second thought I won't

   I've opened up a few showers where the plumber didn't even bother to secure it,  that always boggles my mind.

   Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professional build the Titanic.

1. 
   Wet_Head | May 08, 2003 07:44am | #8

   I rarely do the doors anymore.  I sub it out to pros in that field.  Cheaper for the customer in most cases.  And most of the nailed drop-ear 90s were installed by "plumbers".

   "We" are our own worst enemy.  You think I get rough on the people here who bash pros in favor of DIYers?  You oughtta see me go after the slobs in my trade.  Grrrrr!!

   But they make me a lot of money!  I hate to see customers pay for stuff twice though.

2. 
   Planeman | May 08, 2003 05:02pm | #9

   Thanks guys! I will follow the advice and do the dado cut and block the riser pipe in several locations. I was always going to use screws on the flange ears, I was just worried about using dry wall screws or some other disimilar metal on the brass flange and getting corrosion down the road. I tend to overkill my work on my own house and I like stuff rock solid, at least for my lifetime. Now I just need someone to come over and shower with me to "test" it out!

   Experienced, but still dangerous!

3. 
   ScottMatson | May 08, 2003 05:27pm | #10

   No reason you couldn't use brass screws!

   You could even through bolt it with toilet bolts if you're that worried about it!

   -Just havin' some fun. Galvanically yours,

   Dog

   Edited 5/8/2003 10:35:21 AM ET by Mad Dog

4. 
   Wet_Head | May 08, 2003 05:47pm | #11

   I'll pass on the shower!

5. 
   Planeman | May 08, 2003 08:50pm | #12

   First my wife, then the Laker girls pass and now you too? Fine, I'll test it myself! (Thanks for the info)Experienced, but still dangerous!