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Hello –
I am about to embark on a systematic replacment of all the galvanized pipes in our 1950’s era ranch and convert to copper.
While I’m at it I would like to install shutoff or isolation valves at every possible location where they would come in handy for future expansion of the plumbing system.
This would also allow me to upgrade to copper pipes gradually without extended disruption of water service in the house.
I hear many good things about ball valves with the lever that turns 90 degrees to either shut off or fully open the flow.
No modulation – just on or off.
I would appreciate suggestions on where NOT to use this type of valve.
Also, is there a particular brand that stands out ?
I am planning on splurging on quality.
Thanks for your help,
Alan
Replies
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Alan: some comments since you've gotten no other responses.
1. ball valves CAN modulate flow, just not as well as globe or even gate, and are noisy at low flow.
2. DON'T install where small kids can get at them - they have been known to shut off a hot water heater (can burnout elements on electric WH) since the lever operation is so easy.
3. 3/4" ball valves on large bathroom tubs/jac's in lieu of std fixtures (have to custom make fancy handles)-- BIG difference in flow and time to fill tub.
4. some more expensive types have union connection at each end, for really easy future expansion with cost no object, that's the ticket -- do a web search for wholesale sources of any of the valve types. As some of the pros have said on other threads: avoid HD, Lowes, etc. whose valves are mostly low end M.I.Ch. junk (won't always seal well).
*Art -Thanks so much for your very informative reply.Especially with the warning on where not to install them - we do have three young boys ranging from 6 months to 5 years.I'll have to look into the globe or gate valves selections and also the ones with union connections on either end.There will be some locations where these would definitely be more appropriate.I've been warned about the cheap valves and in the overall scheme of things the cost difference won't be much for a home application even if the price is doubled.Your advise is being printed and added to my stack of helpful hints.I am planning on visiting the local (but very large regional) plumbing supply house - they did point out the various less expensive foreign made brands and also some higher quality U.S. and German made units.The local supplier is like visiting a plumbing toy store.Also, H.D. and Lowes do not stock schedule K piping, only L and M.Will schedule K be overkill for residential application ?Thanks again,Alan
*Alan:Since you have boys, the type K is not overkill in any exposed areas (or where the ease of bending makes instl easier). My boys were throwing darts the full 40 ft length of the basement and hit and "holed" type M a few times. (PS don't have the dartboard anywhere near light switches either!) Easy to fix except for draining the water, type K may be more resistance to this type of "not in the textbook" application.
*Alan, Full port valves are the way to go. Good choice. Ensure that you have bleed nipples where required for future drainage, and that the valve is installed with the bleed nipple on the desired side.K is not typically used in residential, but I have heard of it referenced if the house has problematic water.
*Art and Mongo -Thanks so much.This is helping me a great deal before I go to the supplier and start filling up the cart with the goodies, which I can hardly wait to do.40' dart throws...Talk about winging it across the room !I must confess I've done that well into my late 30's but the dartboard has been put way for the time being :-)I need to look up bleed nipples and their function - I'm learning something new if they have a purpose in draining part of the system.I guess once you shut down a particular zone the water can be drained out from that zone with the bleeder nipples ?One more guess is there would be two nipples, one on each end, and one would be facing up for venting while the water drains from the other end ?I had to replace a valve last year and the new one has a bleeder but the sales person was not clear on the exact purpose.It was intalled on the freshwater inlet for the boiler.Thanks again !Alan
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Hello -
I am about to embark on a systematic replacment of all the galvanized pipes in our 1950's era ranch and convert to copper.
While I'm at it I would like to install shutoff or isolation valves at every possible location where they would come in handy for future expansion of the plumbing system.
This would also allow me to upgrade to copper pipes gradually without extended disruption of water service in the house.
I hear many good things about ball valves with the lever that turns 90 degrees to either shut off or fully open the flow.
No modulation - just on or off.
I would appreciate suggestions on where NOT to use this type of valve.
Also, is there a particular brand that stands out ?
I am planning on splurging on quality.
Thanks for your help,
Alan