I have a two-story house. A porch roof intersects with garage roof that runs perpendicular to the front of the house. The porch roof is lower than the garage roof. <!—-><!—-> <!—->
There is flashing where these roofs meet the house. I need to replace at least the first two courses of siding shingles above the porch roof and up the incline following the garage roof. The first course is currently a double layer along the horizontal and up the incline. The double layer appears to create a problem where subsequent horizontal rows, in single layers, meet the double layers on the incline. The affect is that in some places a shingle appears missing or there is a third shingle on top of the double layer on the incline. How can I avoid this situation? Also, is a double course necessary where there is flashing at a roof/siding connection, either on the horizontal or incline?
Edited 4/12/2006 11:28 am ET by rfreiberg
Replies
sir....the print is way too small to read....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I hope this is better.
I have a two-story house. A porch roof intersects with garage roof that runs perpendicular to the front of the house. The porch roof is lower than the garage roof.
<!----><!----><!---->
There is flashing where these roofs meet the house. I need to replace at least the first two courses of siding shingles above the porch roof and up the incline following the garage roof.
why and what kind of shingles??
The first course is currently a double layer along the horizontal and up the incline. The double layer appears to create a problem where subsequent horizontal rows, in single layers, meet the double layers on the incline.
The affect is that in some places a shingle appears missing or there is a third shingle on top of the double layer on the incline.
How can I avoid this situation?
if it's cedars shakes or similar use a 1.5-2 x 18-24" piece of shingle installed horizontially to act as a taper to feather the wall shingles to the double layer.. That double layer is more than likely a starter course...
Also, is a double course necessary where there is flashing at a roof/siding connection, either on the horizontal or incline?
starter course on the incline.. the wall feathered to the starter couse...
clear as mud.. isn't this....
anybody got a pic?????Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
The shingles are red cedar and they are being replaced because the butts are soft as mud. They were installed very close and touching the roofing.
I don't quite get your second point. It appears you aren saying yes, a double layer of shingles is required in both instances.
The horizontal shingle used to taper the wall shigles to the starter course sounds like the right way to correct this. But - is this normal? If it were shingled properly, would the horizontal shingle be needed.
The shingles are red cedar and they are being replaced because the butts are soft as mud. They were installed very close and touching the roofing.
Can you just cut the butts off???
BWTB that you will be doing more than 2 courses to get an astetic balance...
I don't quite get your second point. It appears you are saying yes, a double layer of shingles is required in both instances.
Yup...
Pif's pic says it too... the diag line is the cut line..
The horizontal shingle used to taper the wall shigles to the starter course sounds like the right way to correct this. But - is this normal? If it were shingled properly, would the horizontal shingle be needed.
you said there were as many as three layers of shingles.. there is a reason for this.. whether it be a right or a wrong install.. the horizontals are to help with a blend.. done right ya shouldn't need the Horizontials.. however in my minds eye I may be seeing something different than what you have...
can ya post a pic????Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
It sounds like somebody took a shortcut by runing a double course parrallel to the slope of the base roof, then ran the main courses out across them to the point where they cam into contact with the roof. It will do the job but it doesn't look professional that way, causes lumps, and as he said, they were not held up so they wicked water and are going back quick.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I thought the same but when he said 3 deep / thick and I got the impression he just wanted to blend and redo the min...
redo it all and make it a fine job.... besides if he strips from the top and is careful he might be able to reuse a large portion of what he has....Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I am trying to blend and redo, but the area involved has me baffled.
Exactly! That is the sort of thing I'm trying to avoid. Having only replaced a few shingles here and there, I could see myself doing that and worse.
Assuming cedar shingles, study this
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Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
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Thanks for the pic. It is not too clear, but it looks like you are using the tips of the shingles to build up the layers to the proper thickness, possibly to taper the surface wall singles down to the double-layered starter course on the incline???
right
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I dion't have much time when I posted first time.
You'll have to replace at least three or four courses of shingles to get this right. iF THIS IS A DORMER WITH ONLY 8-9-10 COURSES TO BEGIN WITH, YOU'LL FIND IT EASIER TO REDO THE WHOLE THING THAN FIGHTR WITH THIEFING SHINGLES OUT FROM UNDER SUPERIOR COPURSES.
oops - sorry thje caps button
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
There is about ten feet of wall above garage roof.
BTW, is it possible for you to generate that diagram with heavier lines and a bit larger? I can't really pick out the detail.
is it possible to post a pic...
Pif and I are on dial up...
View Image
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Got the pic. Thanks. Now these tired old eyes will sit down learn something from it.
yes you need a double coures it is easiest to match the profile of the starter covered by the first course if the overlap weave of the doremr course is the outside. then following layout and weave you won't have any problem.
.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
hey Pif... ya get broad band????Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
No, but he asked for a bigger one and that was the original beforee I reformatted for the forum....Can't win'm all
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!