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I have a small crew and know it’s going to take a LONG time to shingle our project, but would like to dry it in. How long will Tyvek hold up to the elements. Also, someone told me that cedar shingles should not go over tyvek because they react to it – any truth in this?
Thanks
The Paslode cordless siding and fencing nailer drives fasteners reliably without the hassle of hoses or compressors.
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Use felt. 30 lb or better. Tyvek is a joke!
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I was raised old fart / old school....I have taken apart enough old buildings which were felted and flashed correctly...to agree...with the above fella...
15 lb / 30 lb felt...still the best on the block...in my book...
DN
*Add my name to the list of happy "felt users". . . do it right and it won't let you down. . . I too have taken apart some old timers where it was still doing the job; and Tyvek is a joke, a bad one.-Patrick
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Matt, Cedar has to be appied over Tyvek with a pine furring strip run vertically between the housewrap and the cedar. Not easily done with shingles. Go 30# felt.
*Listen to Bob Poor.Just completed same on 6000 sq ft home.b FELT.
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Matt, Not only is felt paper a proven product and good ol'standby, I have observed that heavy red resin paper still performing under siding after more than 50 years. I used Tyvek once and haven't found a reason to use it again. It's to bad many young apprentices may not learn the fine art of tarpapering. Keith
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Check out several articles by Paul Fisette in JLC over the past couple years in JLC. He does building materials research at U Mass. Done a lot w/ tarpaper vs. housewraps. Interesting data.
If you're looking for weather a resistant installation both for a 'dry-in' and post shingling, you want to pay close attention to the details of tarpaper - wrap installation.
*I would like to read those articles. Whats the address?
*Why is Tyvek a joke? What's wrong with it?
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JLC articles regarding tarpaper vs. housewrap? I'd like the address, too. I've used Tyvek once and asked myself the entire time why the whole US of A seems enamored with the stuff. Must be a strong industry lobby in all the right places. Tar paper has so much, well, thickness, and seems to shed water quite well, too. The detailing issue is one I would like to read further about. I liked the recent FHB article in which the author states that simply taping the seams of shear plywood would create as effective a vapor barrier as wrapping with Tyvek.
*I would also like to know. I am in the middle of a job that will receive cedar royals for siding. 1/2 of the house is wrapped in typar. Please answer before it's too late!!
*do you know of any performance issues with cedar and house wrap?
*would'nt tar paper act as a vapor barrior and trap moisture in the wall if any got in there. I thought the outside walls were supposed to breath.
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In articles and books I've read, 15# felt is surprisingly permeable - certainly not near polyvinyl or foil or those nearly impermeable materials.
I'm no expert but have repaired a lot of old houses with red rosin paper and felt under clapboards - did its job for over 100 years - why change. I think Syvanen has written some articles for FHB that are intelligent detailing for around openings, etc., but am intrigued by some posst by Freddy about a particular method of wrapping or not wrapping into the opening.
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what about using felt under vinyl siding. I'm going to be putting 1/2 osb on the outside. House wrap seems to me to be a waste, not to mention expensive. If all it is doing is keeping drafts from going through the seems of the osb couldn't you just seal the seems? Felt seems the more econimical way to go if all I'm interested in doing is keeping the sheathing dry and cut down on drafts.
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Tape the seams if you like, there is a tape marketed for that sole purpose. I would still use the felt on top of taping. Felt is so easy to install as you side. Try installing giant sheets of plastic, some jobs make it quite impractical. Also how often have you seen tons of moisture collected on plastic? Felt just seems to handle moisture issues better and its history is much longer than the plastics.
Felt user.
Jack
*Felt works.The jury has gone back into deliberations on the plastics.Have you seen the price of gas at the pumps lately? Is there any money being made at these prices? Oil and chemical companies need to expand their "added value markets as fast as they perceive stock holders happiness with earnings growth, valuations.. blah blah. Snake oil use to be a hot seller...Markets are invented daily! Buyer beware.
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good topic...
i am getting ready to sheathe and was planning on the housewrap product...mainly for air infiltration. exterior will be brick veneer. appreciate any thoughts.
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With an airspace, moisture drainplane?
Add to your favorites, buildingscience.com
Jack : )
*Building paper or felt is lapped like shingles. If water gets in, it will likely drain out. If water gets behind house wrap there's no second chance. Think about this as you're peppering the wall with nails...oh, and don't forget that one you had to pull out.David
*Check out jlconline.com Perhaps you can find out which issues the articles appeared. I draw a blank.Mike
*See post 6.1.1
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I've used 15# felt under vinyl siding for 6 years with no apparent problems. Initially the installer complained about the wrinkling of the felt after it had gone through an overnight temperature change, and was concerned that it may cause the siding to be wavey. This did not occur however, and I've had good results consistently. One thing I might add though, I only use higher grades of vinyl siding such as Wolverines' Restoration Series and Benchmark Series.
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Typar blows the doors off of Tyvek for uv resistance and it is safer (not as slippery). I have used Tyvek under WHITE Cedar in the past with no problems, but no exp. with the effects of RED Cedar. And remember, neither housewrap or felt is a replacement for flashing.
*Tyvek or typar has one good use. It is cheap temporary siding that will last longer than felt when left exposed for several years.In this neck of the woods the Typar house is the modern day equivilant of the tarpaper shack. And I must say, the southern side of my house has been clad in nothing but Tyvek for two years now. The felt detaling around the windows has all but disintegrated from UV, but the Tyvek is going strong.I too have come to question the typical felt details around the window, having read something that Fred posted once a while back that resonated with my own experience.I don't remember the details now, but I think the key part of it was the fact that no one ever really gets the drip cap under the felt or the tyvek, and that creates more problems than no detailing at all.Steve
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I have a small crew and know it's going to take a LONG time to shingle our project, but would like to dry it in. How long will Tyvek hold up to the elements. Also, someone told me that cedar shingles should not go over tyvek because they react to it - any truth in this?
Thanks