I am quoting a project that includes replacing double hung curved glass windows. As part of the window replacement we will have to replace some of the horizontal clapboard siding as well as cedar shingles above a frieze board. Both siding materials are applied to a radiused curved wall. Does anyone have suggestions on the best method to install the clapboards. The shingles should be fairly straightforward.
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A lot depends on the radius of the wall and the chosen siding. Beveled claps or four square like Hardie? Hardie will bend, wood can be wetted, or kerfed if not bevel-edge.
It really depends how tight a bend yer talking about, every thing has it's limits of "do-a-bility".
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
can you use wiggle-wood (aka bendy ply)? i've used it in scenic applications and it can roll up relatively tight. I'ts 1/4" opr maybe less, but you could stagger multiple layers (if that sounds right to the pros here)
The horizzontal siding needs to be a type where the backsid is dadoed where it laps over the preceding course, or you need to add that dado.
What you are doing is creating a siding that lays solidly to the sheathing behind it to seat to that surfacce. Otherwise, it will curve as you bend it so the outer ends roll down.
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I'm gonna call ya on that.
Nope. a rabbet will not preclude that which you describe. A thicker butt will not conform as well as a rabbeted butt, but , given the growth or loss of of the width of said siding ( height, in this case) the top will always be shorter than the bottom, hence it will "lay" tight to the wall, tha rabbet of a ship lap will "help" somewhat, but it can't overcome the radial stess just above it in the meat of the siding, with out fracture or relief.
Again, w/o a real life radius and material spec. It can't be deduced from my chair or yours.
Lemme call SAMT and pester him..(G)Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
true it won't deal with radial resistance to compression/tension in the varying thickness of wood, but it will eliminat the two dfiferent radii between top and lap edges of each piece
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Good try. You can't baffle a Bs'er with BS.
Unless you have a secret ring.
Two objects cannot occupy the same space at the same time, so if you try to draw a line from "A" to "B" around a curve, that line would have to be curved, No?
But yet our Mercateur mapping system showing the 3D of the Sphere , shows yet another anomily, that the rule of Euclid that a line has no end or beginning cannot intersect..Hmmm?
In other words, IF I attemped to circum navigate a sphere, with a substance that was 3 dimenisonal, IN RELATION to the observer in a 3d plane, I would appear to be in the same dimension as the observer, but in reality, I could have the entire verse's to be in..ya can't argue with what ain't what ya can see.
I figguere I got about 5 life yrs left in me, and by wholly schiest, I WILL leave a mark.
Carry on, I got a plan.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
That's funny. You got the job if I was hiring. :-)And I do believe your right. When you wrap a tapered item around a column, It's not going to "sit" right. That may explain why they used rectangular stock on a silo. Actually, the one out at the end of the drive is segmented. (short lengths, maybe 6-8 long max) With shingles or vertical it would not matter. Now I'm curious.
Edited 11/23/2007 4:45 pm ET by RobWes
I'm not right, I just percieve what is.
zzz..many Idioms that our proteges's seem to be lacking in thier edumacation. It's has ( I know) been observerd before
The worst punctuation ever invented was the PERIOD.
Because everyone sees it a Cesant, a cease, to be, once again a paradox. Should I say it, or just think it? Well? either way, I stopped it from happening, because I SAID it, therefore IT must BE ME .
I doubt I'd be here for long if the powers that be could be inserted in my mind, it just ain't allowed.
My factions and revellations, well, would scare most away, but my understandings havd shown me a 200% increase in toe dippers, and a 1000% increase in acounts payable, in 8 months.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
yeah.... but the first "tapered" piece is not tapered in it's contact
ie: if you wrap a clap around a cylinder it will follow a level line
if you set another , non-rabbeted , clap , overlapping the first , it is no longer in contact with the cylinder and the ends will dip down
you have TWO choices
either cut a radiused clap
or cut a rabetted clap
the first case you have to do either some higher math , to figure the radius of the bottom rip
or .. you have to install a pattern clap, mark the level line , remove it and use it for a pattern
OR
you have to rabbet the back , so it will APPEAR to be a lapped clap , installed at a bevel..... but it is in reality , a single clap , in full contact with the cylinder
same goes for shingling roofs on a cylinder ( eg: a turret roof )Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Yeah, dat works.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
either you have slipped a cog or you are talking about something entirely different than I am.The wall is curved.
So it has a radius.
Let's say that radius on the face of the sheathing is 16'
So you put the first piece of lap siding on it. i bends around OK and is nailed in place.
The top edge of that piece of siding is 3/16" thick.so the next piece to go on above it is no longer fitting to a straight curved wall, but a cone shape because the top of that secend piece is fitting to a 16' radius while the btoom where it laps over is fitting to a radius of 16'3/16".
Fitting to a cone wil make the ends play down.But babbetting the back at the lap removes that so the whole piece is fitting to the same straight curved wall that the first one fitted to so it follows the same shape at the same exposure.I don't know how you bring a sphere into it. There is no dome or sphere here, only a curved wall with potential of acting like a cone
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Mock it up an try it w.8'' Bevel edge at your rad. it wont work.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
I've already done it, Duane.
Mikle said same thing I did.
Something you just aren't hearing - or seeing
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
So.ya know the Rad the OP posted?
Fill me in.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
The radius he has doesn't matter. It is the same from bottom to top. If you dado the rabbet out of the lap, the siding is fitting to that same radius with each piece.Where his radius woiuld matter is if it is so short that he needs to steam the wood to get it to bend
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Lots of comments here, but no answers.
I am trying to replace some weather damaged 6” beveled cedar siding on a turret with a 5’ radius. During demolition and examination of the original siding, it is not dadoed in the back. The only alterations I can find is the thick end of the siding is planed down to about 3/8” in thickness and the siding is about 5” wide instead of 5.5”. They shimmed the behind the siding before nailing where two ends join with an approximately .125-.25” thick beveled piece of siding. That’s it. No other evidence of the method used and none of these will solve the tendency of the ends to bend down.
How did they get the siding to wrap around the curve and not frown at the ends? Steamed and bent during instal? What else? Nobody knows?