Replies

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Aug 12, 2003 11:23pm | #1

   craig.. what is your sheathing ?

   also.. consider using a 5/4 x 4 trim, there is negative reveal with 1x4 trim..

    the fibercement will stick out proud of the trim instead of sitting below the  plane of the trim

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   shake_n_stir | Aug 13, 2003 12:46am | #2

   Mike, when you ask about the sheathing, are you suggesting that . .  say 5/8 ply or waberboard is a good nailing surface?  I am not second guessing you here, I am just curious as to an answer to craig's question.

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Aug 13, 2003 05:08am | #3

   yup... typically, claps are nailed on every stud... but half inch sheathing is better than nothing... there are many places where there will be no solid blocking or stud ..

    the wider the trim  , the more this will occurMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   cmzimm | Aug 13, 2003 01:54pm | #4

   My sheathing is 7/16" OSB.  I wasn't considering that a nailable surface.  Can it be? 

   I wasn't sure how close to the end the lap siding had to be nailed.  From what I've learned on this forum, it's ok to nail into the nearest studs if there is no stud where two pieces meet.  I don't feel comfortable doing that at the trim however.

   I am actually using 5/4x4 trim.   Good call.  Thanks.

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Aug 13, 2003 01:58pm | #5

   you have 2 choices.. either install blocking so there will be solid nailing wherever you want it... or work with what is there..

    in either case you want to nail all siding about an inch - inch & a half, from any end..

    with the fiber cement, you may have to predrill for this nailMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   cmzimm | Aug 13, 2003 02:07pm | #6

   If I use a nail gun, can I get that close to the edge or should I do those by hand??

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Aug 14, 2003 03:52am | #7

   you have to experiment with your gun, your nails,  your location  from the end... etc.

   try some sample piecesMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   NCbubba | Aug 14, 2003 04:12am | #8

   hey Mike (and others),

   we have used our roofing nailers with success next to exterior trim (when sheathed w/ wooden underlayment).  set the compressor on a lower psi and you may need to keep the hammer near you.   has anyone else done this?  can anyone think of a reason this would not be a good idea?

   thanks,

   bubba

3. 
   xMikeSmith | Aug 14, 2003 04:51am | #9

   if we're blind nailing our fiber cement, we use our roofing guns.. for face nail, we use our sidewall coil guns with SS ring shank siding nails.. most of the time we can nail within  1.5" of the ends.. any small pieces, we pre-drill and hand nailMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

4. 
   cmzimm | Aug 14, 2003 01:47pm | #10

   Are you saying that you nail into your sheathing and not necessarily into a stud when next to exterior trim?  Does OSB have any holding strength?  What about adding some construction adhesive?

5. 
   shake_n_stir | Aug 15, 2003 12:03am | #11

   Not to widen this topic, but if I were to widen it .  . . LOL.   Does plywood have better nail holding abilities than OSB?

6. 
   xMikeSmith | Aug 15, 2003 02:38am | #12

   yes , ply has better nail holding abilities than osb.. but is it measureable for siding?.. probably not...

   some siding moves more than others.. i don't think fibercement is going to move as much as cedar claps.. in short.. i think an occasional nail.. or a whole column of nails in osb with FC is not  a big dealMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

7. 
   NCbubba | Aug 15, 2003 03:57am | #14

   i agree w/ Mike, ply is much better as a substrate than osb.  we do not put construction adhesive on the ends of the hardi planks when nailing next to the exterior trim.  you should have a stud within 16" of the trim and floating the last few inches with caulk at the trim is plenty to keep it on the wall and in plane with the rest of the clap.

   just my thoughts.

   b

8. 
   shake_n_stir | Aug 15, 2003 06:27pm | #16

   How about for a roof deck?  Recommend ply or OSB?  Obviously OSB is cheaper, but . . .

   I have a brother-in-law who has a house in a weird wind pattern area.  The roof on the garage gets an odd eddy off the house and pulls the shingles and nails right out.  We are talking about huge winds.

9. 
   xMikeSmith | Aug 15, 2003 11:49pm | #17

   sounds highly suspect... most of the houses built today are osb.. if that were happening on a regular basis.. they would ban it for roofs..

    there is probably something else going on .....like a nail that isn't long enough to penetrate the roof deck... the nail should stick out the back about a 1/4" to generate max. holding power..

    osb isn't as GOOD as ply.. but it ain't that bad either... just not my cup of tea..Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

10. 
    shake_n_stir | Aug 16, 2003 12:00am | #18

    Thanks.  I know his roof situation is weird.  He had the contractor back two or three times.  The contractor was nice enough to redo some of the work even though all involved likely knew that it was not a material failure (shingles never tore) and not an installation problem.  Just huge bloody winds on top of a hill with no trees for wind break.

2. 
   ScottMatson | Aug 15, 2003 03:41am | #13

   I'll throw in two cents in addition to Mike's good advice. If you're in doubt about the nail holding into your sheathing, just dab on some construction adhesive at each end where you don't hit a stud. It holds the cement really well, especially the stuff made for cement contact. You can nail into sheathing. I'd suggest ring shank nails. I've got a Makita siding nailer than holds the hitachi hardi nails, cement coated galvies with ring shanks. excellent for this.

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Aug 15, 2003 04:33am | #15

   hey , dawg.... when's the first snowfall..?

    r u going out to lisa's quakefest ?

   gotta finish this deck job, then a blue roof ( Hatteras Regatta Blue )..

   then back to coventry to finish that fibercement  colonial cape we started 2 years ago... which oughta put me into October and two weeks in IrelandMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   ScottMatson | Aug 19, 2003 01:41am | #19

   What is Lisa's Quakefest?

   Sounds like you're busy. Me too.

   Later,

   Dog

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Aug 19, 2003 01:59am | #20

   CAlifornia Labor Day......

   be there or be square... sorry i'm gonna be squareMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   ScottMatson | Aug 20, 2003 03:06am | #21

   can't make it. Which Lisa?

2. 
   xMikeSmith | Aug 20, 2003 03:49am | #22

   fur as i no... it's that gurlMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

3. 
   ScottMatson | Aug 21, 2003 03:11am | #25

   Shoot. I'd love to meet her. Maybe next time.

   Thinkin' GWC will make it...

3. 
   hasbeen | Aug 20, 2003 05:12am | #23

   You're probably done by now, but the Hardiplank installation instructions specifically say that you can nail directly to 7/16" OSB (over tar paper or whatever "weather resistive barrier" you choose).

   Any jackass can kick down a barn, but it takes a carpenter to build one.

4. 
   mdresimprov | Aug 20, 2003 01:57pm | #24

   If the house is not sheeted I would do the nailer. If it is sheeted, where there is no stud ,I use 1 5/8 stainless GRK torx head (#1 bit) finish screws. These babies hold and the head is not that much bigger than a stainless ringshank.