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I am building a new garage, and would like to side it with Texture-111 that will be stained with an opaque oil-based stain.
Will I need to sheath the stud walls first? Plywood or OSB?
Do I need to back prime the T-111?
Can the windows be installed over the T-111, and what would be an appropriate flashing detail?
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Replies
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Ken, wassup? Didn't we go through this, or is something wrong with the board? I think someone asked this same question within this last week.
Was there something else you were looking for?
Dave
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Nope, that was a different post on delaminating T-111. That stuff is great, isn't it? It has a job site life a little longer that the statute of limitations on negligent building.
Do you need sheathing under the T-111? Nope, if you like your garage cold, drafty, and wet.
Back prime the T-111? Nope, if you like to see it delaminate too.
Flashing? Maybe someone else has the patience to describe it; I'd just buy the cheapest stock vinyl windows (to match the T-111 in quality and appearance) and slap some caulk on it. I bet the caulk will last longer than the T-111.
*Scooter:Come on now, your biases are showing. T-1-11 is Exterior Rated(not just Exterior glue like CDX) so delamination is not a problem unless kept in almost constant contact with water. In some parts of the country I've even seen unpainted/unstained T-1-11 used and 30 years later other than looking ugly it is still there doing the job. Installed correctly it isn't even drafty. Don't mind your attitudes about it. Whether T-1-11 is low end, high end or somewhere in between is largely a geographic thing. You are entitled to your opinion on that since I've seen everything from sheds to million dollar homes put together with the stuff.But you and ave_d are right on about the question life here lately. It seems folks aren't able to read the archives and apply to their situation. Wonder why?
*Funny, the garage we built at my Dad's about 15 years ago and sided with T-111 is still looking brand new. Must have done something wrong? Just got painted after built and still standing. Fine Homebuilding or Journal of Light Const. had an article about the flashing details. If I only had the reference CD's.....Jeff
*Let's go easy on Ken here. I just tried a search for "T-111" and I got i noitems found!Rich Beckman
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Sorry Ken, didn't mean to jump. Love T-111. Lived in Anchorage, AK during the pipeline days, and they used to bring the stuff in by the shipload. I remember every house in my sub, probably the whole side of town had T-111 -- all stained (oil base). Has anyone seen how it's held up there?
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My barn, and shop..built by previous owner, are t-111. Unpainted, 15 years old...held up fine
*Ken,T-111 is a common building material, and is used far more widely than anyone wants to admit.Use 5/8" panels, and you will be fine. You do not need to sheath the building first. The T-111 is thick enough (5/8") that sheathing underneath is not necessary. Wrap the structure with either house wrap, or felt paper (I use #30 felt). Flash all the corners, windows, doors, etc... properly. Prime and paint, or stain, and you will have a loong lasting, fairly inexpensive siding. It takes a LOT of paint/stain to cover this porous, absorbant siding, but it does paint well.T-111, and R,B&B are very common here. As long as the bottom of the siding is off the ground (no ground contact) and everything is flashed correctly, the siding will last a long, long time. Use Z flashing between the top of the bottom panels, and the bottom of the top panel when doing gable ends. Use caulking/sealant wherever you think it would help, and enjoy yourself. Just a thought...James DuHamel
*Yeah, I was unfair to T-111. It does have its place, yeah, on garages away from sight, outhouses, and rural homes where no one can see the stuff.I mean the stuff is plywood for Christ's sake. And not very pretty Plywood at that. Stain it, paint it, trim it out and it still looks like, well, plywood.I mean the mag is Fine Homebuilding right? Not Crappy Home Building. I am hard pressed to imagine a worse looking siding than T-111. Stucco is better (it will last 50 years or so), so is vinyl siding (at least it looks like the real stuff, sorta). Whats wrong with cedar shingle siding or shiplap siding? Or board and batten siding (Hey, use your plywood there)?I think T-111 is the modern version of asphalt siding shingles (which went out of PWT vogue a couple decades ago), and may last longer.Fine Homebuilding? T-111? They are mutually exclusive.Hope you don't take this too seriously, from One Hick's Opinion.
*I even built my kids playhouse and sided it w/t-111, painted it and it looks fine after 5 weeks.
*Yes Ave_d;I was in Alaska during that famous T-111 revolution and surprising enough, after 20 to 25 years, most of the houses still have the original exterior. Of course some look worse than others (depending on the maintenance effort expended during those years). We left Alaska in 1999 leaving behind a house in Valdez which was covered with the same exterior T-111 that was applied in 1975. It showed no evidence of delamination, this could be due to the fact that one of the exterior walls was painted in rotation every year so no wall had paint that was over four years old.I might add that I was constantly on the lookout for a replacement siding product and never found one that would come up to the performance of T-111 under the conditions we had. Plastic would break when the snow fell off the roof and under the same conditions metal would become dented and bent, while any lap siding would be stripped right off the house. Brick would have worked except for the cost of shipping.As a note, even toay; many of the new homes are built with T-111 siding in the areas of extreme weather conditions (Anchorage not included).Just Bob
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I am building a new garage, and would like to side it with Texture-111 that will be stained with an opaque oil-based stain.
Will I need to sheath the stud walls first? Plywood or OSB?
Do I need to back prime the T-111?
Can the windows be installed over the T-111, and what would be an appropriate flashing detail?