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To whom it may concern:
In the next few weeks I will begin framing new a garage (29’x 29’) with 2×4 walls, 16” o.c. I will probably insulate the building eventually, so it can be heated for use as a working garage in the winter (just to a nominal temp. of 50-60 degrees.
My plan is to use Texture 111 as an exterior siding, but I have a few questions concerning the application:
1. Will I need to use sheathing under the T-111?
2. If not, how would I install the housewrap?
3. The T-111 will be stained on the exterior surface. Does it need to be back primed also?
4. Is there an acceptable detail for installation of the windows after the T-111 goes up?
Thank for your assistance>
Ken Strickland
50 Maple Ave.
Patterson, NY 12563
Replies
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Ken-
Most of the T-111 applications I've seen are for sheds, or pole buildings. The T-111 is applied directly to the studs, and wrap is never used. My shop (not built by me) is a pole building built in this manner. There is no insulation and it is about 30'x40'. I heat it up to temp with a rocket heater(110,000btu) when I'm in there. With no insulation, it still heats up fairly quickly, and I use a smaller propane heater to maintain temp while working.
I'd probably go this route again due to the price.
If you feel the need to insulate, and house wrap, I'd sheath the garage. If I went to this effort, I'd probably consider doing something like board and batten spruce. Materials for b&b spruce are less than the t-111, and looks MUCH nicer.
I've never seem t-111 backback primed.Just my opinopinion.... I'me that there are plenty who disagree
*hah, hah, hah....i had to laugh about the house wrap..anyways ken.. T-1-11 is just fine for a garage..make sure you keep the bottom about 8 inches above finish grade...we always edge prime and lap the edge prime about 6 inches onto the back..you can't use house warap.. you install your windows first and you put a ZEE flash (window cap)over the top of the window....edge prime your T-1-11, and then yo install your T-1-11..last you install your doors and door casings..the pre-hung doors usually come thru with a 908 casing...back prime this before you install it also...the doors SHOULD be installed before the T-1-11 , just like the windows.. but most just nail them to the face and then caulk the tops...in a lot of instances.. the T-1-11 is a TEMPORARY siding... if you ever cover it with say wood siding .. or hardie plank.. you can use 15 lb. felt or house wrap then...you can also properly flash all of the other details just like you did your windows...you can insulate the T-1-11 walls even without the housewrap... i wuld sheetrock... and blow the walls with cellulose right thru the sheetrock and then spackle the installation holes....mike
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The APA's website has detailed info and diagrams (for us slow coaches) for sheet siding applications. They cover the flashing details that Mike mentioned and how to handle the siding on a 8+ foot wall. Good Luck!
http://apawood.org
Dave
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We recently had a posting on T-1-11. Look for it in the archives. It will answer most of your questions.
Look at the stamps on the T-1-11. Most of it is rated for use as sheathing. It is all Exterior Rated so backpriming is not required.
When I use it I treat it the same as any other sheathing except that it doesn't need to be covered with anything. I try to cut the windows so they fall on flat parts of the T-1-11 on the sides and I let flashing and caulk take care of the tops and bottoms.
*fredb... in this case the back priming isn't for the T-1-11's benefit.. it's for the longevity of the paint ...if you back prime,edge prime and lap the back about 6 inches, the water will not wick into the wood and lift the paint off for premature failure....also, you will be able to paint places that will never get painted any other way..b but hey, whadda i know ?
*Mike:Gosh, I've never had that problem so it never occured to me to backprime to prevent it. Thanks for the insight.
*Ken,The big question is how much rainfall do you get? Unless you live in the Mojave, wrap the garage. Edge and back priming 6" is also necessary.Finally, unless you have a flat roof, you will need to cut triangles for the gables: make sure you use a Z-Bar-Barg the horizontal seams and lap the 3" . . . wet-lapping with Sika 1A isSikho a good idea.Good luck.
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To whom it may concern:
In the next few weeks I will begin framing new a garage (29’x 29’) with 2x4 walls, 16” o.c. I will probably insulate the building eventually, so it can be heated for use as a working garage in the winter (just to a nominal temp. of 50-60 degrees.
My plan is to use Texture 111 as an exterior siding, but I have a few questions concerning the application:
1. Will I need to use sheathing under the T-111?
2. If not, how would I install the housewrap?
3. The T-111 will be stained on the exterior surface. Does it need to be back primed also?
4. Is there an acceptable detail for installation of the windows after the T-111 goes up?
Thank for your assistance>
Ken Strickland
50 Maple Ave.
Patterson, NY 12563