Replies

1. 
   Ian.D.Gilham. | Feb 11, 2001 06:25am | #1

   *
   I've always found a razor blade to be best, or a very sharp chisel, bevel down.

1. 
   Jeff_J._Buck | Feb 11, 2001 08:32am | #2

   *Mineral spirits on a paper towel, then clean the mineral spirits off. Or, let it set up, score with a utility knife and peel away. Someone will probably say the mineral spirits can damage the top/sink, but I don't just dump it on, or let it sit. Jeff

1. 
   HomeBldr_ | Feb 11, 2001 01:39pm | #3

   *Scrape carefully with a sharb razor blade, clean up with laquer thinner on a white rag. The thinner will not hurt the top, I clean laminate with it all the time. Steven

1. 
   HomeBldr_ | Feb 11, 2001 01:39pm | #4

   *Scrape carefully with a sharp razor blade, clean up with laquer thinner on a white rag. The thinner will not hurt the top, I clean laminate with it all the time. Steven

1. 
   Ryan_C | Feb 11, 2001 02:20pm | #5

   *cut through the caulk right around the sink edge and you might be able to peal the silicone off the counter top in one (or a few) long strip of rubber.

2. 
   calvin_ | Feb 11, 2001 03:30pm | #6

   *Try an uncut scrap of laminate as your scraper.

3. 
   Bill_Pickard | Feb 11, 2001 06:55pm | #7

   *b TVMDCNext time you caulk, run a length of blue tape on both sides of the joint, apply and smooth the caulk then remove the tape. A perfect job couldn't be easier!

4. 
   Mike_Smith | Feb 11, 2001 07:04pm | #8

   *next time you caulk, don't use silicone....your fingernail is good.. and some of those poly scrapers..judicious use of the razor blade / utility blade.. and the solvent...

5. 
   Robert_Lee_Barrott | Feb 11, 2001 07:40pm | #9

   *I have used a product from 3M that will remove silicone. It is called 3M Caulk Remover, it would be wise to test it first but I have used it on a acrylic shower with no problems.

6. 
   Joel_Greer | Feb 12, 2001 05:44am | #10

   *I learned a trick from my porcelain repair man that might help your cleanup. Take your razor blade scraper and strop it on some 400 grit wet/dry paper before you scrape. This will take any burrs off the razor blade and guarantee smooth scraping on the laminate.

7. 
   Greg_Brown | Feb 16, 2001 03:55pm | #11

   *I havent found any solvent hurting laminate-But I haven't used anything stronger than acetone- normally I use lacquer thinner to clean up glue overspray & spills- I learned a trick from a shower enclosure installer/glazer- when useing real silicone, lay your bead & before fingering it smooth spray it lightly with windex & it works a lot easier. I tried it on some scraps, seemed to work great- don't know if the windex would have any adverse affects to the silicone...

8. 
   Ron_Rosa | Feb 16, 2001 08:51pm | #12

   *Hey Mike, why dont you like silicone? Seems to last longer and move better no?

9. 
   JohnD_ | Feb 16, 2001 08:57pm | #13

   *I'd like to reply to that question. I commented a while ago, telling what the problems with silicones are. Let me repeat, since it is long buried:Good Point: Silicones themselves are very inert. They do not weather badly, or are affected by most materials.Good Point: It does not stain easily.Bad Point: They have HORRIBLE!!!!! adhesion. Almost anything sticks more strongly than silicones. I have seen repeated cases of silicones simply lifting from the substrate. They are extremely sensitive to contamination; to get any level of adhesion, the surface has to be absolutely clean--and I mean virtual perfection. Bad Point: Elongation is NOT that great. Other good quality caulks can equal it's properties.

10. 
    KAP_ | Feb 16, 2001 09:20pm | #14

    *John you hit the nail on the head. Caulk by definition has poor elasticity. It's for filling relatively stable seams. If you want to seal a joint where you have movement go with a sealant. A lot of folks think that they're both terms for the same thing but they are different. Another problem is even if you use a sealant, most folks goop it on thinking the if a little is good alot must be better. Nothing further from the truth. Sealants shouldn't be thicker than 1/4 the width of the joint. Think of stretching one rubber band and then trying to hold & stretch 20 at one time. Too thick & the elastic strength of the sealant is greater than adhesion to the substrata. Poof, pulled caulk. On to removing the silicone caulk, I'd concur with the sharp razor & then rubbing your thumb or the head of your hand across any residue usually will roll up any excess.

11. 
    allen_moore | Feb 20, 2001 01:51pm | #15

    *I have only one question, Why are you using silicon to set the sink ? I have always used plumbers putty or mastic to make the seal,cleans up fast & no mess if you goof.

12. 
    Ryan_Yoars | Feb 26, 2001 05:10am | #16

    *I used to work in a counter top factory, and to clean the glue off of the laminates they use toluene, which is a fairly strong solvent.

13. 
    L._Siders | Feb 26, 2001 06:16am | #17

    *I only use plumbers putty on stainless steel and rimmed cast iron sinks. I have never heard of it being used on rimless cast iron sinks or any solid surface sinks (stains the material). The rest of the Ideas I have used. Try the easiest one first then go to the next level and pray you don't scratch the counter top. I have a dull bur free chisel I use for the more difficult messes. A friend of mine masks his sinks off and his jobs look very good. I prefer water clean-up bath & kitchen caulk. Better adhesion...

14. 
    Phill_Giles | Feb 26, 2001 08:56am | #18

    *And a potentially dangerous one.http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/tfacts56.html

15. 
    Luka_ | Feb 26, 2001 09:57am | #19

    *Let it set up. (Moot point by now, of course) Then scribe with the razor blade held verticaly, right up against the sink, all the way around. Most of what's on the counter will sometimes just roll right up. What doesn't can be scraped. Then clean with T.S.P. Those other chemicals will penetrate the silicone that you want to stay there and do the job you put it there for.I have only twice had problems with silicone not sticking to any sort of surface. Both times were in repairing roof leaks, and I was too lazy to even halfway clean the surfaces. All those years of buildup of wet dirt and dust...Anytime that I simply wipe the surface with a rag, the stuff sticks like mad. You don't have to have perfectly clean surfaces. It sticks well enough that I have used it for glue many times. I have never been disapointed except for those two times.I have never had problems with it not stretching as needed either.Maybe you who have had problems, have been using an inferior caulk. I always use GE Silcone II 100% Silicone Sealant. I have used this and only this for more than 15 years.When you apply it where you are going to tool it with your finger, apply it, then spray it with vinegar. Spray your finger with vinegar as well before you tool it.I have even used this stuff to make perfect seals on machinery, cars, containers, etc. I apply it generously around the opening, then lay a piece of plastic sammich wrap on it before I close the lid. Let it set up, cut away the plastic wrap, and you've got a perfect seal. Even better if you are able to close the lid in such a way that it is about a 32d or so more open than if it were shut tightly. Then when all is cured and done with, closing the lid tightly will squeeze the silicone seal.

16. 
    Tom_Moller | Feb 26, 2001 06:00pm | #20

    *If you take a small piece of scrap laminate and BREAK it, you will have a razor sharp edged scraper that won't scratch the counter top.

2. 
   Barry_Ottney | Feb 26, 2001 06:00pm | #21

   *
   Well I made a mess setting my new kitchen sink.I put a bead of silicon caulk around the opening and as I was putting the sink in ,the faucet hung up and now I have a smear of silicon a half-inch wide all around the sink.Is there a solvent that won't damage the plastic laminate countertop?