The attached pic shows the existing framework for a screened porch. Visible is the 2×4 PT sill plate, and the 4×4 post that supports the roof. The plan is to replace the screen and lattice with windows. How would you flash the bottom of the windows? The concrete slab extends past the sill by about 4 inches, and is covered with brick. Obviously, a piece of bent z-flashing that went up the wall and over the edge of the brick would be visually unacceptable.
I’m sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
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ed .. i'd replace the bottom framing with PT..
then i'd get some bluestone sills , and cut them with horns. the outer edge of the blustone would sit on the brick outer edge..the cant would be about 10 degrees...o r what ever the cant angle of the true window sill is
the window's true sill would sit on the bluestone
this sill would be caulked in just like a window in a masonry opening..
the jambs and head would be regular trim
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Ok, so you're saying to cover the brick with a new sloped sill. I can buy that. Bluestone ... not familiar with that term, Yank.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
what ever they use for sills , lintels, treads.. in you area
might be sandstone.. or slate.... Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Started demo today (yep ... 1/1/05). Discovered that all the framing is doug fir, even the sill plate. I had not ploanned to remove the sill, in spite of Mike's suggestion, but now I have no choice.
Here's a pic from the outside after initial demo. Need more advice. The distance from the edge of the brick to the edge of the existing 2x4 is 4".I'm thinking about installing a 2x10 sill cut so that it hangs over the brick about 1/2", caulk it wll to the slab, then flash the top of that with peel & stick, and install a sloped cover board over that.
What is the correct way to fasten an acq sill plate to existing concrete?
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
How about a little more info on the proposed window wall?
Windows down at slab level or up a bit with a short wall below?
If you placed a strip of peel and stick under the bottom plate you would not have to use ACQ. A 1x6 length of smooth composite deck board would make a nice water table, resting on the bottom plate and over the edge of the brick and cut to fit around the verticals. Cant would be about 20.5*. Another 2x, ripped to thickness to bring the bottom plate up to level with the sloped water table. A sill pan on top of that with just enough lap over the water table to direct any water away from the sill of the window unit resting in the pan. Peel and stick to lap over the vertical edges of the sill pan and on up the 4x4 supports.
How are you installing the windows and what are your trim plans?
Well Ralph, it gets a bit involved. One of the boys is about 5, and has a birth defect that has left him with very impaired bones in general, and legs in particular. He gets around ok now, but will be in a wheelchair in 5-7 years. (It's a disease that results in very brittle bones, apoparently a severe calcium deficiency.) So, part of the project is to raise the porch floor about 5-1/2" to be flush with the kitchen floor. And then raise the ramp that you see in the foreground to be flush with the new floor.
The bottom of the window rouigh opening will be about 7" above the existing floor (stamped concrete). So there will be about 2" of trim on the inside, and 7" on the outside. And then a handrail at about 36" up.
Trex for the sill is a decent idea, as is the P&S under plain lumber for the sill. Another 2x, ripped to thickness to bring the bottom plate up to level with the sloped water table. I don't follow you on this.
The windows (Pella) were ordered to fit witin each existing opening. I planned to install them, then use peel & stick to cover all the posts and nail fins, working from the bottom up.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
You've ordered the windows to fit within the existing openings. Now you say you have to raise the porch floor 5 1/2" above what we see in the photos to match an existing interior floor. If you've taken that reduction in available rough opening height into account and also ordered your windows with tempered glass due to the proximity to the floor we can try again.
Looks like you'll need to see some kind of low kneewall as you look at it from the outside and will need to allow for sheathing of some kind to cover the framing gaps which will also require some sheathing or creative trim to match the thickness of that lower sheathing when you nail up the windows. Or are you just planning to cover the framing with nothing but peel and stick and cover that with trim to hide it?
So now, if I read this right, you need to provide a means to shed any water that might hit the brick edge of the porch and migrate to the interior under the framing and install and properly flash and trim the window which will be installed in a new R.O. more than 7" above the current floor.
The water table idea will still work down at the original level to cover the brick and shed water away from the framing with the addition of a basic wall properly flashed and papered above that water table. Then the rough opening with its sill pan and peel and stick flashing, the placement of the window and sealing of the fins and installation of trim.
Ed, You have these wndows ordered in tempered glass, right?
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Ralph & Pif ... yep ... all the lower windows (floor to about 32") are tempered, and the two upper windows adjacent to the door are tempered. The posts are about 54" c-to-c so just the adjacent ones being tempered gets me far enough away from the door.
I was going to install a "header" from the sill to the bottom of the lower window, made of 2 - 2x6 with a layer of 1/2" ply so it matches the thicjness of the 4x4 posts. The middle rail will be built the same. The upper windows are sized to reach to the existing top header. So I end up with a framing system that is all the same thickness and in the same plane on both faces. And I plan to cover the entire structure with peel & stick and then simple trim painted to match the rest of the house.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
I think I would have a Z metal made up from leaded coppernot quite to 90° and shim under it to slope water out, then trim with whatever wood and siding you want.
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'preciate the response Pif. My concern with the sheetmetal is the boys ... 3 of them, and they are hell on wheels. If the metal could be bent out of shape (by them walking on it, or hitting it with something), it's gonna happen. But, If I were to build a sloped wood sill, then cover with the metal, that could work.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
In that case, attach the PT with PL Premium
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How about installing some of that foam sill seal below the bottom sill? Matt