FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

sill replacement

ktkamm | Posted in General Discussion on May 1, 2008 03:49am

As I work on my house and begin to remove exterior boards, I have not unexpectedly encountered evidence of water damage/rot of some sills. I have a few questions for the more knowledgeable than myself (which are most of you!)

1. Is sill replacement something I should even consider doing myself (I know that may be difficult to answer without knowing my exact skill level).

2. Where do most of you get the large beams needed to replace the sills and what do you typically use to cut the beams?

3. Does it make any sense to construct replacement beams using pressure treated wood by building up the beam using smaller pieces?

I have crawled in to the crawl space and the large beam running perpendicular to the sill that needs replacement all look good without obvious rot/decay.

I have attached a few photos to show the extent of the decay/rot.

As always, thanks for your patience and knowledgeable help.

Kieran

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. rez | May 01, 2008 04:02am | #1

     

    Click here for access to the Woodshed Tavern

    Click here to visit the beginning of Breaktime

  2. RedfordHenry | May 01, 2008 04:08am | #2

    Rotted sills such as yours are typically replaced using PT lumber, either 6x6, or built up 2x material, often some combination of both.  If there are places where the beams are not rotted through, you might get away with just chopping out the rotted sections and filling these sections in with new wood.  Using untreated lumber directly on your granite ashlar wall is not a good idea.  This is not rocket science, but you need to progress slowly and in sections, jacking and holding wall sections and intersecting beams as necessary while you repair/replace one section at a time.  You might find George Nash's book "Renovating Old Houses" very helpful.  He includes good advice and plenty of photos showing exactly what you need to do.

  3. Shep | May 01, 2008 04:15am | #3

    If you're pretty proficient with tools and equipment, you can replace the sills yourself. You'll have to jack up the house enough to take the weight off the sills, so you can pull the old ones out, and slide the new in. Barely take enough weight off to do this, otherwise you might damage the plaster or sheetrock walls inside.

    I like to do this in sections of 12-16', just to keep things manageble.

    You can build up the new sill out of layers of lumber. I only use PT material for this, usually a combination of PT 2x lumber, and PT plywood. You''l have to figure out a way to tie ( bolt ) the new sill down to the foundation. It would seem like gravity should be enough, but especially if you live somewhere with high winds, it won't be.

    1. ktkamm | May 01, 2008 04:26am | #4

      Thanks for the quick replies. When jacking, am I just jacking up the beams perpendicular to the sills (ie the floor beams)? I don't see any other places where I could place the jacks.

      My house is an old post and beam. I don't see where the current sills were attached to the granite foundation. Do you still think I need to fasten the sills to the top of the granite?

       

      Thanks gain

       

      Kieran 

      1. Shep | May 01, 2008 04:43am | #5

        You'll have to check to see how everything is put together. Frequently you can just jack up the joists, but sometime that doesn't take the weight off the sill, especially with balloon construction. You might have to lag a beam to the wall studs, and jack that up.

        The old sills may not have been attached to the foundation, but it's still a good idea to attach the new ones. You can drill holes thru the wood into the granite, and epoxy some threaded rods in to hold things down.

      2. RedfordHenry | May 01, 2008 04:43am | #6

        Not many tornados in Maine.  Just lay in the new sills, no need to connect them to the granite.

        You will likely need to jack intersecting beams near the sills, just enough to take the weight.  In theory, the majority of weight is being transferred to areas directly beneath posts.  Think like a P&B frame.  The simplest way to jack isolated posts is to bolt temporary jacking blocks a few feet up in a solid section of post and place your jack under that.  If you need to jack a larger section spanning more than one post, you can bolt a section of sturdy lumber between the posts.  Jacking of any sort can be dangerous so be careful.     

        1. ktkamm | May 01, 2008 04:51am | #7

          Thanks Redhen and Shep.

          As always, very useful advice. I think I have my work cut out for me, however, I definitely think is doable.

           

          Kieran

          1. Henley | May 01, 2008 01:51pm | #8

            No one mentioned to weave the layers of 2x together.

            Around the corner, and lap it over the old sill ends. That will
            help with not fastening it to the foundation.

          2. ktkamm | May 02, 2008 12:50am | #9

            I was reading one article where the gentleman doing the repair work was using the PT lumber place on edge with spacer blocks between to build up the width of the sill.

            From your post, I would assume you are advising to lay the 2xs on their faces and layer them in that fashion. Is that correct? If so, are you just building up the height by fastening them and nailing one to the other. I can see how this method would allow for lap joints at the corners, allow you to weave adjacent ends together by alternating lengths of the boards and allow you to "lap" new pieces with cut out sections of the old sills.

            Sounds like I probably finally have justification to get a "sawzall"

            Anybody have a recommendation for a good "sawzall" brand.

            Thanks again for your patience and help.

             

            Kieran

             

             

          3. Shep | May 02, 2008 01:15am | #10

            You're going to get several recomendations for a recip saw, but, IMO, there's a reason that the generic name for recip saws is Sawzall.

            I think Milwaukee still makes the best recip saw. I've got the SuperSawzall, with the counter balancing to help limit vibration.

            A number of years ago, I had one stolen. I went right out and bought the same tool again.

          4. ktkamm | May 02, 2008 01:29am | #11

            Thanks Shep

          5. Henley | May 02, 2008 02:07am | #12

            Yup, I generally lay them flat. Either way works tho.

            Just different head aches to choose from. I spent today doing just this thing. One thing about on the flat is, If
            the floor joist are notched into the sill you can easily create a pocket
            for them.
            You do use more wood tho.PS I did a few rounds with my HomeDespot Dewalt $99 special today-
            Next time I'll get something a little more serious.

          6. Sasquatch | May 02, 2008 03:54am | #15

            You got lots of good advice here.  I would add that I would only sandwich in the treated plates horizontally.  In other words, don't stand them up on edge.  The rotted sills you have in place would not hold the house down in a tornado, so I would question the importance of a tie to the foundation.

            Because of the rot, I don't think it makes much sense to go to the expense of various types of antique (yet still relevant) joinery.  Use modern fastening systems (most likely Simpson) to get you to the level of protection you are comfortable with, or to the level required by the local code (AHJ).  If you are not comfortable with your own experience and judgment, spend a few bucks to run your ideas by an engineer.  The house is a big investment.  The few dollars for a consultation will probably be less than the cost of a mistake.

  4. User avater
    Jeff_Clarke | May 02, 2008 03:41am | #13

    1. Is sill replacement something I should even consider doing myself (I know that may be difficult to answer without knowing my exact skill level).

    Not likely in a 200 + year old house.   For instance, are you aware that floor beams and posts are tenoned into the sills?  Possibly dovetailed?  In a timber frame that is.

    2. Where do most of you get the large beams needed to replace the sills and what do you typically use to cut the beams?

    You should be able to get up to 4 x 6 pressure-preservative-treated.

    3. Does it make any sense to construct replacement beams using pressure treated wood by building up the beam using smaller pieces?

    Maybe but you have to consider shrinkage.  It may be wiser to go the 'naturally rot resistant species' route if you can get timbers large enough.

    Jeff

  5. ChicagoMike | May 02, 2008 03:51am | #14

    Whenever I had to replace sills on a balloon frame or post and beam, I would build temp walls from the first to second floor. Then from the second to the attic, then place a beam in the basement and jack that up. This lifts the joists, and the walls at the same time. This will take all of the weight off of the sill for a much easier replacement. I would only go 1/8" to 1/4" at a time. Only enough to take the weight off.

     

    "It is what it is."

  6. iluvgear | May 02, 2008 04:11am | #16

    Boy if this isn't a great excuse to buy new tools.......Although the following may not be exactly your situation, I think you should find it helpful.  Even if you have someone else do the work it will give you a better understanding of what is involved.  Best of luck.

    http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/how-to/articles/replacing-rotten-mudsill.aspx?ac=ts&ra=fp

    1. User avater
      Ted W. | May 02, 2008 06:17am | #17

      I didn't see any mention of bonding the treated boards together if you do the built-up method. I would suggest using some construction adhesive between the boards, besides screwing or nailing them together. Also, saw a mention of standing them on edge. Bad idea as they might tip. Lay them flat.

      On the sawzall, make sure to get one with quick change blade, but not the dewalt. Milwaukee and Porter Cable are good choices. Makita is probably a good choice too but I don't know. I'm referring to the quick-change blade system they use - dewalts system clogs with plaster dust so when you switch to  a thinner blade it will be lose and wobbly if you don't take the time to clean out the chuck. The others use a twist lock system, which works really well.

      Also, check if the blade is reversible (can be installed upside down), which comes in real handy sometimes.

      With your house's construction just lifting the floor joists probably won't take the weight off. You'll probably have to use one of the previously mentioned methods to make sure you lift the wall.--------------------------------------------------------

      Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.netSee some of my work at AWorkOfWood.com

      1. ktkamm | May 02, 2008 06:30pm | #18

        Thanks to everyone who has replied and offered their advice. All great info and suggestions. Now I have to put this all in to practice. I will keep people informed as to progress, success/failures.

         

        Kieran

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Mortar for Old Masonry

Old masonry may look tough, but the wrong mortar can destroy it—here's how to choose the right mix for lasting repairs.

Featured Video

SawStop's Portable Tablesaw is Bigger and Better Than Before

The 10-in. Jobsite Saw PRO has a wider table, a new dust-control port, and a more versatile fence, along with the same reliable safety mechanism included in all SawStop tablesaws.

Related Stories

  • Fire-Resistant Landscaping and Home Design Details
  • A New Approach to Foundations
  • A Closer Look at Smart Water-Leak Detection Systems
  • Guest Suite With a Garden House

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data