What is the proper way to seal the sill plates for new framing? It will be 2×4 cca sill plates.
Copper flashing? Is copper necessary?
1/4″ foam? is this acceptable?
I’ve heard that some guys just caulk the plate……this does not seem adequate to me. But I’m not a framer, so would like a little advice on the proper technique for a 20 x 20 addition.
Also any pix handy would be a great visual and appreciated.
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Replies
Sill sealer on top of the foundation and thern your pt sill on top of that. You don't need copper flashing unless it's spec'd on the plans.
Thanks Joe. Do you recommend any specific brand of sill sealer?
Forgot to ask in original post.
I will need to install (drill/epoxy) anchor bolts for the sill plates. what is the proper spacing? I plan on using 1/2' x 6", is this acceptable?
Anybody want to chime in?????
The slab is an existing slab, so i will have to drill and epoxy the bolts. Was hoping to find out a few things such as:
1) the proper spacing so i will know how many anchors I would need to install?
2) A recomendation for a good epoxy to use?
3) length of anchor bolt?.
(being that they won't be going into fresh concrete and being "j" anchors, is it just 1/2" threaded rod that would be used)?
Bolt details will depend a lot on where you live -- it's different in hurricane or earthquake country than it is elsewhere.
New York
Well, lessee -- you had a hurricane there a month ago. When was the last earthquake?
(Contact your local BI and see what the local rules are..)
"Well, lessee -- you had a
"Well, lessee -- you had a hurricane there a month ago"
errrrrrrrrr........................must have slept through that one!
Typical IRC (New York State) Code requirement for anchor bolt spacing is typically:
-Maximum 72" on center.
-Minimum 2 for each plate no matter how small the plate
-Minimum embedment into block or cement of 7"
-There should be a bolt within 12" of end of each plate and no closer to ends of plate than 7 bolt diamters if my meory serves me.
Also, epoxy anchors would have to be approved by your code official.
Your seismic zone, wind loads, and shear walls will also affect where and how many bolts and what type may be used.
You should direct your answers to your local code office for authorittative answers.
Very helpful, thanks so much. I really appreciate informative resposes.
Retrofitting anchors
Simpson makes a very conveinient self mixing two part epoxy for this purpose. They key is being able to effectively clean out your drilled holes, for that you need compresses air and a brush. I retrofitted with 1/2" threaded rod buried 12" into the foundation wall. If you are putting it in the slab, you obviously won't be going down that far.
Sill seal does
nothing more than stop air flow (which is important). The cca 2x6 you are using is rot/bug proof and does not require sill seal to be applied. Alot of homes that we build we will install the foam sill seal and foam sealant at the inside corner when we insulate. As far as the anchor bolts are concerned this is some that needs to be area specific for uplift and shear conditions. If nothing was called out on the plans then I would go every 4' with an additional one with in 12" of every break (both sides) in the sill plate. You will want at least a 4" into the concrete (so 6" would be ok if you are using an 1 1/2 sill plate and it is tight to the concrete.)
As for the sill seal I decided to go with copper flashing due to previous bout with termites (which has since been eradicated successfullt). I was informed that it would be a safe measure to take given the circumstances. I don't have a problem with the extra cost, after what it cost to get rid of those suckers back when.
BTW, the cca is 2x4 not 2x6 as you mentioned in your reply. Which leads me to ask about what size (width) of cooper flashing should i use? Is there any "nifty" techniques for installing. (i.e. the stapling of the foam to bottom plate when using foam)?
Thanks for bolt info also. i can't seem to find threaded rod in anything but long lenghts. Is it common to have to cut down longer pieces of rod for shorter lenghts when using it for this purpose. I can't find any 1/2" threaded rod anywhere in the range of 6-8".
Another reason for sill seal is to minimize the direct contact between concrete and wood. Even CCA is not totally immune to rot, and keeping moisture (conducted from the concrete) out of it is beneficial. This also helps protect the adjacent wood that would absorb moisture from the CCA if it got damp.
Is the foam sill seal still used even if flashing with copper. Or is it just one or the other? Or both?
The copper wouldn't provide a very good air seal. You could probably use the copper with copious amounts of caulk (on both sides), but that's just a thumb suck. Or you could use copper + foam.
I would think getting the copper over the anchor bolts would be a PITA.
I realize the copper itself would not be a good air seal That's why i was wondering if both foam and copper should be used?
"I would think getting the copper over the anchor bolts would be a PITA"
I'm not sure I'm follwing you here? how does the bolt interfere with the flashing?
Well, I'm not sure what you're talking about with the copper, I guess. Where does it go, exactly?
Dan,
Copper Termite Sheild.
So how do you arrange it -- put a maybe 3" wide copper strip on each side, sticking out an inch to prevent "tunnels"? Or does the copper completely cover the top of the foundation?
(I didn't realize that termites are that big a problem in Maumee -- never had a problem with them in KY.)
Termites?
Well, we have em in the woods.
And I"ve seen them in some of the old downtown buildings with the high dirt crawls.
But here's how it goes if there are concerns. On a block foundation-you either fill at least all the top cores or cap with solids and then sill seal is enough.
Or, you cover the cores and extend out and down a couple inches over the ext. of the block with Metal-copper would be the gold standard.
edit: Slab or poured foundation, you install under the sill and turn down to the exterior side. The idea is to provide a barrier to entering under the sill or up the side walls.
It sounds like the OP is dealing with a poured foundation. Otherwise he wouldn't have to drill it to install bolts, I wouldn't think.
Enclosed patio on a "slab
Enclosed patio on a "slab foundation"
From what I have seen. The copper flashing (termite shield) sits under the sill plate and is bent up over the sill plate on the exterior.
That is why i was asking if the 1/4" foam sill seal should also be installed as the copper flashing itself would not be adequate for sealing.
mick
I've looked for a detail of a termite sheild, this is one I found. http://homes.h-b.com/coppertermiteshield.php I have no idea as to it's quality. You are right that it goes under the sill plate but it turns DOWN, not up.
Yes, i meant to say turns UP! Thank you.
I would i magine one could just use a roll of 6- 8" copper flashing to accomplish what is shown in your attachment correct?
termite shield is an old detail
that is seldom used today....local use would determine... if no one uses it...then don't....if the smart builders use it, then do... most of termite deterrant consists of PT sills and having 8" of concrete exposed so you can inspect for termite tubes
single sill ?
your 6"' will only have 4" bury.... i'd use 8" minimum... your spacing depends on design wind uplift and local code.... we have to space 4' OC and 2' from each corner
if your using the simpson anchor bolts you can read the specs on the package.... no epoxy.....just drill
Mike, which simpson anchor bolts are you referring to? No epoxy required for those?
simpson anchor bolts
1/2 ".....5/8"....3/4"
drill the size hole they specify and then just turn them in.... as strong as the strength of your concrete
they also make an epoxy bolt with the epoxy kit
or you can drill.....epoxy....set bolts.........drill sill.....set sill sealer........set sill...bolt down
go online and read the specs....see what you want to do.....lots of bolts ?
i'd buy some epoxy, some galv. bolts designed for epoxy set ( deformed shank )....and have at it
Energy Code
Typically energy code requires the plate to be sealed but does not specify how.
You can use sill seal of caulk or spray foam at the foundation-to-plate joint.
The goal is to air-seal the joint.
Doesn't matter how you do it.
A neat trick for installing sill seal is to staple it to the bottom plate before installing the plate.
Since I can't use "j" bolts
Since I can't use "j" bolts since it is not fresh concrete, is there a "straight" bolt that is used instead? Like a threaded rod perhaps?
screw type anchors
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=51540&ucst=t
Simpson Titen HD anchors can be used for sill anchorage. They are like a big screw. Drill the hole and use an impact driver to install. Make sure the hole is drilled deeper than needed to allow space for the dust the anchor creates.
http://www.simpsonanchors.com/catalog/mechanical/titen-hd/
thanks for link :)