With a seperate range and oven, can I use one breaker, 8/3 line to the first box then a tag (same gage) to the next box. Sorry about the simplicity of this but seperate range oven set ups are not done around here much. Thanks Patrick.
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Replies
no..
not here anyways.. seperate home runs..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
thank you for the quick reply. patrick.
With a seperate range and oven, can I use one breaker, 8/3 line to the first box then a tag (same gage) to the next box.
In the US, NEC requires a dedictated line for a stove, range, or oven. So, no, you can't combine a separate range and oven on the same circuit.
Yes.
This is called out in 210-19(a)(3) in the 2005 NEC, 210-19(c) in the 1999.
But it has to be on a 50 amp branch circuit, not 40.
The tap conductors have to be a minimum of 20 ampacity or more if the appliance needs it.
And it starts at the point where they split, but the length can't be any more than needed to make the installation.
220.55 (2005), 220.19 (1999) footnote #4 allows the branch circuit load for 1 cook top and 1 or 2 ovens, all in the same room, to be treated as a single stove with the same rating as the sum of all of the units.
Lets clarify what you are talking about.
You said RANGE - a range is a unit that has a surface cooking burners and oven.
And then you are also talking about a separate OVEN.
Or are you talking about a COOKTOP (HOB to the British) and separate oven(s)?
Bill I went by the OP's With a seperate range and oven and answered as seperate appliances..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
On the same note...
I ran a single run of 6/3 to a sub panel in the kitchen cabinet location -not installed yet. From the panel I'm branching out to a modular cooktop-- 2 Elec. burners - 2 Gas- then 2 more elec & a down draft fan. All separate hookups due to their modular nature. I will also have a branch circuit off the sub to the oven.
Question is, is this code acceptable? Any prohibitions putting the sub panel in the cabinets?
not in the cabinate...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
A subpanel needs to be accessible. Per the Code, that means there has to be clear working space in front of it, a minimum of 30 inches wide by 36 inches deep by 6 1/2 feet tall (there are some exceptions to these rules for specific conditions, but it's best to stay within the guidelines.) Plus, if it were inside a cabinet, inevitably stuff would get piled in front of the panel making it difficult to reach quickly.
Thanks for the replies.... I would have preferred a simple yes... ;)
OK back to the drawing board.
This house/camp is elevated on pilings 10' above grade. Could I put the sub panel on the ceiling directly below the kitchen? BillH posted a codecheck link that prohibited breakers used as switches to be higher then 6'7". (I think that was the elev.) since none of my branches will be switches, I don't think that restriction would apply?
As far as accessibility, I could put the sub 18"- 24" inboard of a step landing, so height in reference to the landing would be 5' high and offset approx. 2'.
So I guess this would be comparable to putting the panel on your garage ceiling. Any prohibitions for a horizontal installation?
That 6-7 restriction is on any switch. That is the problem with something like codecheck. Needs to condense 500 pages into 15.But there are other requirements for panels.Looking for a better drawing, but found this description."Sufficient working space shall be provided around electrical
equipment (such as panels). The depth of that space in the direction of access to live parts shall be a
minimum of 3 feet. The minimum width of that space in front of electrical equipment
shall be the width of the equipment or 30 inches whichever is greater. This workspace
shall be clear and extend from the floor to a height of 6.5Æ. This space shall not be
used for storage."I read the code and examples and could not find anyplace that clearly prohibited mounting in the ceiling. But I am sure that is not the intent and an inspector might find a reason. One thing is that the panel not only be approved for mounting in a wall.I would get with the inspector and see what options you can come up with that they would accept.Being a sub-panel they "might" be a little willing to strech the requirements a bit.
Fig e5http://www.codecheck.com/pg25_26electrical.html#serviceconductorsWhile that shows an eternal panel with meter the dimensions are the same for an internal panel.You need 36" in front of the panel to a wall or other obstruction. A width of 30" (from floor to 6.5' height). The panel can be any place withing that 30", but the door has to be able to open at least 90 degrees.You can have something over it like a picture. But that is the limit. Basically nothing below (in the 0 to 6.5').Technically you can't have any thing that sets infront/below the panel. But most people should accept something like an easily movable table.
that alot of power for a 6
Nah-- should be big enough--- I can pull 70 A w/#6
"
Nah-- should be big enough--- I can pull 70 A w/#6"But not if it is NM (romex). Then you are limited to the 60* column and 55 amps (rounded up to the next std size 60)All assuming CU.
"a modular cooktop-- 2 Elec. burners - 2 Gas"Just out of curiousity, what brand and model cooktop are you talking about, I went looking for such a unit several years ago (and then moved so I stopped pursuing it) and all the modular cooktops I saw allowed interchanging things like burners, griddles, etc., but I didn't find one that seemed to allow both electric and gas in the same cooktop.
GE Profile.
The stuff I picked up were display units from a remodeler Bankruptcy. Each 2 burner unit can attach to another or can stand alone with a self rimming top. Doing an internet search I was unable to find my model, but I went to my local retailer for GE profile and found out that I can still order a stand alone grill for the same type system.
Other modulars in the Profile line were available also, but from the dealer only.
Here is one.http://www.miele.com/usa/cooking/combisets/combiset_index.asp?cat=3&bhcp=1Without reading the fine print I don't think that it is convertable (it maybe). Rather you assemble the parts that you want.