We are upgrading the interior doors and trim on our c1976 dutch colonial. Existing is flush hollow core doors with split jambs, 2 1/4 colonial casing, 1×3 window sills (no returns on the sill or apron) and 3 1/4″ og base. Bought the new two panel “Safe N Sound” solid core prehungs in straight jambs from Masonite. Now comes the trim.
We want to go with a simple, clean look upstairs and a little more detailed downstairs. We will be using single bead flat casing (see FHB #150 pp 98-101) with no back band upstairs. Windows will have 5/4 sills with returned ears and aprons. We’ll add a back band downstairs.
The problem I have is deciding how wide the casing should be. You can get it 3″ (3 1/2″ from WindsorOne) and up to 6″ from specialty suppliers if you look hard enough. The standard thickness seams to be 3/4″ and standard bead seams to be 3/16.” Have not seen this type of casing combined with plinths. Not sure about the proportions with relatively small rooms and 8′ ceilings though.
For the base, we were thinking 1x with a standard og basecap. The baseboard radiators are 7 1/2″ high so the plan was to use 1×8 and run the cap continuously across the units were they interrupt the wood baseboard. Now I’m thinking that this seams a little high for the base again considering 8′ ceilings, etc.
Don’t know much about molding proportions (base to casing, trim in general to room size, CH) Can anyone help? Any sources to reference?
Replies
Everyone has their own taste when it comes to molding. I have a traditional mindset and would choose larger moldings than others might. I think 3 1/2" casings give a fairly substantial and elegant look. I don't like running a cap molding over a heat unit. In both cases, the wider the molding, the more likely it is to shrink and be visible. If casing is mitered, the joints may open slightly in the winter. The baseboard may separate from the cap and be more noticeable if the cap goes over the radiation unit. With plinth blocks, you can't make them too wide because you need to keep the edge back from the door. Your casings need to be kept back slightly from the hinges. This usually means that the plinth blocks may be 3/8" - 1/2" wider than the casing. If the plinth sticks out 1/4" beyond the casing, I often figure the plinth to also leave a 1/4" in height above the baseboard and cap. This isn't a "rule" it depends on taste. I would use 1x6 for base, it is actually 3/4" x 5 1/2". 1x8 with a cap is pretty large. I would also use full 1" thick plinth blocks. The best way to tell if you will like the combo is to get a few pieces and try it. You can buy some 2' lengths at HD that will probably be pretty close to what you have in mind and see how it looks.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
What Hammer said. Beaded 1x4 casing, either mitered (with a biscuit) at the top or with a 5/4 x 4 head casing, and 1x6 base with a medium-size (1 1/8" or so) base cap looks good to me in a normal sized house with 8' ceilings. Taller ceilings, and you can get away with 1x5 or 1x6 casing, a back band, 1x8 base with 1 3/4" base cap and a base shoe. I do like the looks of basecap run up and over the baseboard heaters, but to each his own. Like everything in design.
Mike