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cc, If you do a lot of this type of work, I would go out and buy an offset base router. I have a Porter Cable, but there are many other companies that make them. There are many uses for these routers, including trimming laminate. I use 1/4″solid carbide, down-spiral bits to cut out openings like yours. It’s one of those tools you don’t use everyday, but when you need it, it’s indispensable!
Sometimes it’s almost impossible to get sink clamps in some of these cabinets. If I’m putting in a stainless steel sink, I always use “JUST” brand sinks. They snap down into clips that you install around the openings. They are SO easy to install and they make an excellent sink!
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cc: I always insist that the sink be on the jobsite before I do countertop installation. I want to know what I am wokring with from square one. If the cabinets are too narrow, I can deal with that problem before I put on the countertops. I also do the sink cut-out BEFORE I glue on the laminate, and make sure the sink fits. I'd rather have to replace only particleboard than replace p-board AND the laminate I just ruined. Also, when I unpack the new sink, the template goes directly into the recycling bin. I, like others on this string, don't trust that they will be right either. I use the sink as my template. So far, it has worked well for me. I liked the idea about an offset router base!
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My customer just dropped off his sink for the new countertop I installed, and I am running into the same old problem again of a kitchen sink that's to big for the cabinet. It's OK on the sides I can get that cut with my jigsaw, but its those cuts on the front and rear of the top that I end up running into the supports for the top that run along the edges. WHY DOES THIS HAPPEN?????
I am thinking of going to maybe a router or sprial cut hand held drywall router. I have to cut half way into the supports.I STOPPED LAST NIGHT UNTILL I CAN TALK TO YOU GUYS, HAS ANYONE ANY SUGGESTIONS OR IDEAS.
Thank you
cc / olmsted carpenters co.
*I understand your fustration and your probably right in that you could use a router attachment to do a clean job.Something I should alert you to is that a lot of sink cutouts are either oversized or improperly layed out on the templates. So double check in order to leave enough meat to attach to and be able to seal with your silicone afterwards.Another note. A few double sink and triple sink models have the taps cut out forwards of the outside cutout line of the main sink. The sinks are sometimes of a different size and the taps are placed behind the smaller sink.If you cut out as most templates show you will not have any support under the taps that way, you may want to leave a tab of countertop material under the taps even if you have to eliminate some of the clamps from underneath.I hate installing most accessories today. They always come with the wrong screws, the wrong instructions are in the package and the wrong templates are included.Good Luck and I hope your installation goes well.
*Yeah, this is a problem. I worked for a while for a guy who just refused to install sinks from one of the two big hardware chains locally; they wouldn't fit well, so he would send the customers off to get a sink from the other chain.No help to you cc, i know. i just put in a solid steel undermount sink in a solid surface top. Came with a template to make another template to make the cutout. only thing was it called for a router bit/template guide comb. that was just crazy. I went through about twenty catalogues and couldn't find a template guide commercially available that would work (bet there is an outrageously overpriced one available from the solid surface supplier though). I improvised and got through it, but it was stressful.I also hate all new appliances, including sinks, and especially installing flush mount ranges on irregular floors, with those anti tip brackets. Jeez, now i'm all worked up. It's no good on this job cc, but i want to be involved in the sink selection for any of my tops from now on. Good luck
*cc, If you do a lot of this type of work, I would go out and buy an offset base router. I have a Porter Cable, but there are many other companies that make them. There are many uses for these routers, including trimming laminate. I use 1/4"solid carbide, down-spiral bits to cut out openings like yours. It's one of those tools you don't use everyday, but when you need it, it's indispensable!Sometimes it's almost impossible to get sink clamps in some of these cabinets. If I'm putting in a stainless steel sink, I always use "JUST" brand sinks. They snap down into clips that you install around the openings. They are SO easy to install and they make an excellent sink!
*cc, if you go the router rout, get extra bits. The countertop fabricators seem to know exactly where to put the staples. Solid carbide doesn't take much stress, but HSS doesn't take too kindly to metal fasteners. BB
*I always cut my sink cut outs before I install the top. I also do it upside down with a jigsaw or if I have a template (plywood) of that size I use a big plunge router. Most double bowl stainless are the same size. The cast iron ones seem to vary the most.L.Siders