Researching SIPS on timberframe. Looking for real-life feedback on use of EPS (white coffeecup) foam vs. Urethane. I have received prices on both, and the urethane costs about $0.35 more per square foot and seems to be harder to work with. EPS can be cut with a hot knife but the thicker panels necessitate use of extension jambs everywhere and are not heat and flame resistant.
Any comments?
Replies
Greetings Jon,
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again.
Perhaps it will catch someones attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
SanchoRon said 'Remember the Alamo' and was no more.
Jon:
I was told by a Timberframer that the EPS panels are stronger. Don't know if it's because they are thicker or if it's the type of foam (or if it's even true...). What does the panel manufacturer say?
BILL
We enclosed our timberframe with eps panels, seem to be most of what the panel guys around here install. Went up quickly, and allowed us to fine tune window placement after the walls were up. I cut them out with a Prazi saw, hot knifed the foam, and screwed in the rough framing. When we ordered our windows, we ordered the appropriate width jambs. We didn't plan ahead sufficiently for wiring, and while we did pre-run feeds that would have otherwise been impossible to hide later, we didn't pre-run the basic outlet circuits. I was able to do it later, but it added many hours of labor. We used t&g cedar on the cathedral ceiling before the roof panels went on, and it came out great. The panel guys also screwed the sheetrock to the wall panels before putting them up, eliminating the need to do a difficult sheetrock job around the frame afterwards. Pretty slick. Probably more (and less) info than you asked for........