Hi everyone,
I just saw a good deal on the Skil Mag77 7 1/4″ worm drive saw. I mostly biuld furniture, and outdoor structures. Is there any advantage to the worm drive if I am not a framer where I am using the saw on a daily basis? What are the advantages versus a sidewinder? I found one brand new for $100 and I feel thats a pretty good deal, am in the market for a new circular saw. Thanks for any advice.
Wolfman
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Replies
I have one and IMO it's the best saw made. You will never wear it out. They usually sell for about $175. I paid $120 for mine. Also once you get used to the saw you'll wonder why all saws don't have the blade on the left side.
Thanks T. I know they always get good reviews, and I do get tired of looking over the saw at the blade on the sidewinders, I just never used one before. I think for the price I should grab it. Do the worm drives require periodic oil change/replenishment?
You can change the oil, but I have never met anyone who actually does it.
Heck does...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I've never met Heck.I am sure plenty of people do, just saying there are LOTS of them out there that are going strong after 10 years with no oil changes.
my older than dirt 8" Milwaukee has never had an oil change....
Heck lives here at BT...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
How do you do, jesse, my name is Heck.
I had a skilsaw last me 27 years, I didn't baby it. I did change the oil once in a while.If you come to a fork in the road,You can eat your lunch.
I don't really enjoy working with wormgear saws, though I've used them often on union jobs. Their advantages are all about torque. They can cut through almost anything without slowing down. But they are heavy, awkward and potentially more dangerous that a sidewinder. And they are less than ideal when accuracy is the aim.
I much prefer sidewinders with front adjusting plates. I have two of that type which are pretty equal, a Milwakee and a Porter-Cable. The front plate adjuster allows the saw to remain at the same angle, in relation to the work. Therefore you wrist/hand angle will be the same on every cut. That's a big advantage.
"And they are less than ideal when accuracy is the aim. "I would dispute that. Wormdrives are all that get used in the timberframe shops I am familiar with (except for 16" beam saws). So much easier to cut to a scribed line when you have a full view of the blade.
I would dispute that. Wormdrives are all that get used in the timberframe shops I am familiar with (except for 16" beam saws). So much easier to cut to a scribed line when you have a full view of the blade.
No doubt that anyone cutting hardwoods of large dimension will opt for the "worm".
Regarding accuracy, do you ever use your left hand on the plate of a left blade saw, to help guide it carefully along a line? That's one technique I like to use with a sidewinder. I can either use my fingers as a stationary guide or I can push gently on back corner of the plate, to help keep the blade on line. Having the blade on the opposite side is a nice safety advantage. And I don't find it difficult to see the blade on the right side, just means moving my upper body to the right.
How about plunge cuts? Can the worm do those accurately while you're holding up the guide and trying to get that long handled saw into position?
If the OP isn't going to need all that torque why should he work with a big heavy saw?
I own several wormies and I am a Lefty so I do most what you describe but opposite. For a lefty there is another advantage, that the wider side of the foot is on the "Keep" side and the cutoff falls of on the skinny side. The saw's bulk/weight is a lot more stable that way. Probably the same reasons most RT handers have for sidewinders, just backwards.__________________________
Judo Chop!
are we really getting into an arguement on which circular saw is better.
can we all agree to disagree?
it's all personal preference. some people can cut better with a wormdrive others with a sidewinder.
i once had a west coast carpenter tell me that i was wrong to cut with a sidewinder. i almost crapped my paints.
i want whoever is working with me to use the saw they are most comfortable with. i will say that i believe it to be beneficial to be able to use both proficiently.
I own several wormies and I am a Lefty so I do most what you describe but opposite.
For a lefty there is another advantage, that the wider side of the foot is on the "Keep" side and the cutoff falls of on the skinny side. The saw's bulk/weight is a lot more stable that way.
Probably the same reasons most RT handers have for sidewinders, just backwards.
Thanks for making that point. I retired from union work many years ago so I'd forgotten some of the peculiar things about lft. hand wormies.
I also like to use a cut-off (speed) square with my rt. hand sidewinders. That way I can put the blade next to my mark, start the cut and then lean back away from the saw dust. Seldom get any in my eyes that way. And of course the cut is perfect, every time.
One serious note to any new owner/user of left hand circular saws; make sure that the guard is working flawlessly before pulling the trigger. If you cut wet wood, check the guard to make sure it's not loading up with wet saw dust. With the blade on the left side, if the guard is closing slowly, the blade can grab your pant leg as you're setting the saw down, and take a serious chunk out of your thigh. I was lucky, when it happened to me. Just got a small knick. In another recent thread I traded stories with a carpenter who'd been bitten twice, deep cuts too.
I've had one Skil 6 1/2" Wormdrive for 30 years and never changed the oil and it runs fine. You probably should though. I actually think a worm drive saw is more accurate because the length of the saw with your hand in the rear is eaiser to keep on a straight line. My $.02.
Worm is a much better saw IMHO.
I'd dispute the claims of less acurate as well.
Wormdrive allows you to get directly behind the saw as you "drive" it through the material.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Good deal and welcome to the club
I have 10 worm drives but i used them for heavy work, the saw i have now that i use is a porter cable model 843 with blade on the left and electric brake. I would recommend getting that saw over a worm drive unless you are always doing heavy work, I never let anyone but good carpenters touch my worm drives, The electric brake can be nice i dont think any worm drives have this feature
Thank you all for your replies. I think for the price I will get the Mag and try it out. I suppose if I don't like it I could return it or sell it here. :>)
Excellent all-around saw and at least 3lbs. lighter than my regular skilsaw.
Don't leave home without it!
Much as I like my current Skil / Bosch 77, I really like my old Makita Hyphoid drive better. It's better balanced, and I can cut straighter rips - not sure why.
Also, the 77 eats the darn cord, due to the guard cut-away. That's the dirty secret of why they now have the "direct-connect" feature!
If I pull the 77 back slightly to straighten my line, it will cock. Not so on the Makita. Not sure why.
If only the Makita had a soft start - maybe the new ones do?
Forrest - built plenty of cabinets with my first Makita hyphoid 18 years ago
Well, I went back to Lowes last night and bought the Mag77. I haven't checked it out yet , but I wanted to let everyone know that the local Lowes here in Eatontown NJ has the Mag77 and the standard HD77 for a clearance price of $100 each. Last night there were about three left of each. If you like the worm drive, this is one good deal. Can't wait to make some sawdust.
The Makita does have a bunch of torque-steer when you pull the trigger. That old gyroscopic progression IIRC for many years ago in school.