Replies

1. 
   calvin | Oct 17, 2003 05:59am | #1

   I did it years ago and used Regular Durabond.  Dries very hard so be careful if you do it this way.  You might want to seal the paneling to avoid delamination from the moisture in the mud.  Also, I don't think I'd do it over a masonite product.  I hit the grooves once with the durabond and then used taping compound for another coat.

   Now, I might investigate the wall paper liner product.  I know you can paper over it but seem to remember you can paint.  Someone here I'm sure has used it.

   edit.  I see it's already painted.  Should probably rough up the surface first.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

   
   

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   Edited 10/17/2003 6:34:31 AM ET by calvin

2. 
   CarpenterPJE | Oct 17, 2003 02:29pm | #2

   I wouldn't do it,  when it fails the customer will say "I told you to tear it out & drywall it".  So many times the customer comes up with the quick or cheaper ways of doing a job to save them money, always costing you money. And then we have to explain and convince them to do it the right way. You have a customer willing to do it the right way. Run with it.

   Good luck

   PJE

3. 
   DanT | Oct 17, 2003 02:37pm | #3

   Dave,

   I have done this both ways.  I always seal the panelling with Bins Zinseer before doing anything else.  Then fill the grooves as Calvin described, or paper over, or just paint. Depending on what the customer wants. 

   But.......I also agree with the post about trying to save the customer.   When they want to do the job right I price it that way.  If they balk and want a cheaper alternative then I might roll out this idea.  Even thought I have done this with success I still reguard it as a higher risk method.

   And besides if you the customer thinks its a bad idea or half -ssed that will only reflect their opinion of you.  Give em what they ask for with cheaper alternatives if asked for is my standard choice.  DanT

1. 
   DaveEsposito | Oct 17, 2003 11:36pm | #4

   Thanks gents, I think I'll print this thread and have it on hand as "evidence" when I talk to my client. I'm also going to see what my buds over at Sherwin Williams have to say - and if it's interesting, I'll post here.

1. 
   Clay | Oct 17, 2003 11:59pm | #5

   Dave I have done this with great success.  You need to glass tape the seams of the paneling and use the old hard durabond (not the easy-sand) for at least the first coat over them (it works best for the first fill coat in the grooves too).  It is a good idea to do some sort of texturing after the seams are taped and feathered and the grooves are filled.  I did a simple stippled on and knocked down texture but any thing will work.  I have had good results with a sponge roller and then knockdown too.  I used vinyl drywall corners to replace the wood corners but metal will work too (if you use metal corners glass-tape the edges).  

4. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Oct 18, 2003 02:47am | #6

   Geez, how little do you make an hour?   Sheetrock is cheap.   If you spend only a few hours skimcoating, you'll cost your customer more than if you just rocked it.    You might also consider leaving the paneling in place, and rocking over it.   That saves you the demolition cost and the trip to the dump.

5. 
   LisaWL | Oct 18, 2003 03:28am | #7

   Definitely tape every seam/groove.  Better yet, rock over it.  10-15 years ago someone skim coated the paneled ceiling in my son's room.  It was a sinful act - covered up the original 1 1/2" thick tongue and groove boards.  Now we have a ceiling full of cracks all running parallel and spaced 3" apart.  I can hardly wait until the job of removing all that mud comes to the top of the list.  It would be much easier if we just had to remove drywall and patch nail holes.

   "A completed home is a listed home."