Replies

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Jul 09, 2005 03:30pm | #1

   All modern houses in Texas are built on slabs, and they're all monolithic.  It's safe to say that they are all bigger than what you are planning.  What's your question?  One thing to be sure to do is somehjow vibrate the concrete into the footer so you don't have any voids.  For your small slab, you could probably rod it into place.

    

    

   I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

2. 
   gdavis62 | Jul 09, 2005 03:35pm | #2

   If we are talking about a slab with thickened edge, monolithically poured, it is routinely done.

   Shape your compacted base with the appropriately-formed edge trench.  Form your edge down to trench bottom, with top of form at desired top of slab for a screed base.  Call the redimix plant.  Put your boots on and have fun.

   Gene Davis, Davis Housewrights, Inc., Lake Placid, NY

    

    

3. 
   SamT | Jul 09, 2005 04:30pm | #3

   How about this little number?

   View Image

   SamT

1. 
   teasea | Jul 09, 2005 08:41pm | #4

   that's exactly what I am looking for thanks. I don't do much concrete as far as slabs go and I will be putting a drain in the center of this this one as far as your drawing goes what keeps the concrete from bubbling back up into the slab? do I need to have a fairly dry mix? thanks again

    

   Tony

1. 
   Piffin | Jul 09, 2005 11:32pm | #6

   Low slump and pour slab first, then top off uppers 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   SamT | Jul 09, 2005 11:36pm | #7

   Do the pad first, then the stemwall, then scree the pad. Wastes 'crete unless you gots lot's experience judging how much you need.

   Or, do the pad first, scree it, wait till the first set of the pad,  usually less than 30 mins from the start of the pour, then do the stem wall. Rod the stem wall, don't vibrate. Sprinkle some adhesive admix on the slab mud in the stemwall form if desired. Ie. lots of freezing water expected

   Or, do the stem wall first, let the mud flow out as needed to build back pressure to fill the form, rod gently. As soon as the first poured part of the stem wall takes it's first set, pour the slab. I like this way best, but you gotsta be gentle moving any excess mud away from the stem wall.

   First set = drop a pea sized pebble from 2". It stays on top of the mud with just a little dent. Bounces, doesn't stick to the mud. You can still push your thumb into the mud if you really try.

   Firm set = A firm push with your thumb leaves fingerprints and a very slight depression and no mud sticks to your thumb.

   As soon as the last mud poured takes a firm set, gently strip the stem wall inner form. Take some cement "cream" and patch any visible voids. "Cream" is cment and sand with no large aggregates. You can mix some at 2 or 3 : 1 sand:cement, or seperate the aggregates from some regular you have set back.

   By this time it should all have set pretty good, so strip the rest of the forms and do it to the outside too.

   When you've got it all finished the way you want, cover the entire pour with a single sheet of plastic and seal the edges to the ground so it won't dry out too fast. Leave it for AT LEAST three days, a week is better, IMO. If it gets looking dry, sprinkle it down and re-cover.

   SamT

1. 
   Kyle | Jul 10, 2005 12:15am | #9

   Here in S. Louisiana, all of are slabs are mono.

   They always pour the stemwall first, finish the surface and let it set until they can take the form off.

   They will remove the form and finish the lower part. That allows the conc. finishers to have a nice clean edge.

   (refering to the above picture) Not saying that it's wrong, but down here we would never bevel the bottom of the boards, because you can can finish the edge when you remove the board. And, instead of putting two stakes on the outside we go ahead and put a stake on each side, with the board across the top. Because we pour the top first we will just pull the inside stake out with the boards when we finish the lower slab.

    

   Not that it's right, but just how I would do it.

2. 
   teasea | Jul 10, 2005 05:50am | #10

   thank you sam. that was very informative sounds like you have formed this  type of pour alot. now I have a plan. thanks piffin. thanks kyle. and ed and ima.

   tony

4. 
   Piffin | Jul 09, 2005 11:30pm | #5

   By styem, do you mean 6" wide or 6" hiag above slab or 6" deep thickened slab?

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

5. 
   FastEddie1 | Jul 10, 2005 12:13am | #8

   Sorry ... wrong directiuon.  Down he we pour it with the "stem wall" going down, to act as a thickened edge around the perimeter.  Also thicker beams across the middle.  We don't haqve a need for traditional stem walls.

    

   I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.