Have just purchased a home and need to build a 16’x24′ detached garage. Problem is site slopes. Approx. 4′ drop towards rear 4-5′ of proposed garage. I’m certain architect can deal with this problem, was looking more for suggestions as to how I can use this to my advantage, storage etc. Or will cost outweigh gains. Any thoughts, or plan suggestions would be appreciated, thanks all.
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I'm just answering for no real reason, I guess just to get things started:
The only way I see much advantage would be if you had the roof more like a saltbox roof and the longer slope went back--that way by having steps down inside the garage, you could gain head room and could use the back of the garage as a storage area with several steps down to it. (Walled and so on to prevent people falling into it!) (And with outside access too.) The problem with that idea is that you have your front eves falling over your garage door header (so has to be a stronger header) and any rain/snow coming off the roof would be dumped right at your garage door. May work with a hipped roof though too.
I guess I don't really understand what you really want?
The grade within the foundation normally would be filled and compacted to prep for concrete.
Any useful space below the parking surface would require some sort of suspended slab or heavy duty framed floor.
Might be more cost efficient to gain storage above the parking area in an attic space.
Too many times, people just think inside the box. What makes everyone jump to the same conclusion that the floor of a garage has to be level? Ignore the mob mentality.
You didn't mention whether the 4' drop is the short or long dimension of the garage but it is either a 10% or a 15% grade. What car is incapable of driving up or backing up a 15% grade?
For that matter, who says the front and back walls have to be vertical? Why can't they be 80* or 75*? If you place a cardboard box on a slope, are its ends vertical? Of course not.
Think of the advantages. Less effort is needed to drive into the garage. It will be easier to close the door. For that matter, why would you place a weatherproof car in the largest, most functional room on your property? You need that space for storeage and a workshop.
You might want to place one or two of those concrete bumpers down at the lower end.
~Peter
Edited 7/1/2008 6:20 pm ET by pm22
"For that matter, who says the front and back walls have to be vertical? Why can't they be 80* or 75*? If you place a cardboard box on a slope, are its ends vertical? Of course not."We saw houses built like that -- up in the hills of Tennessee and West Virginia!Seriously though, do you really think it's a good idea to park a rolling vehicle on an incline?
You can floor the garage with "Flexcore panels (about 10 " thick" with 3" concreate overlay. Then a concreate floor on the lower level and a door in the side & you've got a great work room. This is worth doing if you can get 7-8' head room for the walkout.
In doing this be sure you pour the walls like stem walls so they extend up & cover the ends of the panels & concreate floor. The Flexcores are hollow & will leak if exposed to the weather.
Thanks for your replys everyone . Guess I'm looking for ideas "outside the box" . Slope is towards the back end of garage. I think I have an idea. Oversize length, perhaps an extra 6ft. Rear 6' of garage is kind of 2 story interior with a rail at end of parking space, ladder/stairs to access lower level, shelving extending up 12-14 ft high in lower level. That way I gain more storage. The lot is not that large so have to gain some way. Also height restrictions on roof line, so can't just build up as suggested. Hope this clarifys some things. Probably very rarely a vehicle in garage so floor space would be uncluttered. HaHa . Do you think it would work? Can you picture it? Any other thoughts? Thanks for your interest.
Your idea is pretty much what I meant. Would work no matter which way the roof ran. You may want to pour curbs where the rail will be for the lower level to prevent a car from going into it--curb would stop the front wheels.
Good suggestion, thanks.
While you're at it, maybe extend the excavation between where the front wheels of the car come to a stop. That way, from the lower level, you can get under the engine and trans without jacking. Oil and filter changes get a lot easier.
-- J.S.
You're welcome--I like the idea posted by Johnsprungx--to incorporate a pit for working on cars. May need a grating that could close over it when car isn't parked over it though!