In order to replace the panels on a wood garage door, I am cutting away the “stops” (on the side of the door facing into the garage). These are not applied stops, but just part of the cope and stick (?) construction of the door. Based on advice previously obtained here, and from the guy at Coastal Tool, I got a Multimaster. Although it’s fairly slowgoing, I was able to cut them off smoothly such that I might be able to reuse them to hold in the new panels.
One thing surprised me…the blade developes so much heat that the wood burns and smokes, like a chop saw with a dull blade. I’m using the half-moon shaped blade for cutting wood only. The wood is fir and depth of cut only about 1/4″. I tried different speeds with no change in result. Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong? What happens when you guys use it to cut oak flooring?
Edited 1/5/2009 7:05 pm ET by TommH
Replies
I have found that moving the tool and blade along the cut line helps.
Holding it in one place and slowly moving along the cut results in heat build up and smoke for me.
I did do that and it helped some, but not too much. If it's normal, so be it. I was just surprised because this tool has been extensively discussed here, and I don't remember this issue ever being raised.
It cuts pretty slowly. Don't press very hard and keep it moving back and forth along the line. Also, I find that the wood/steel universal e-cut blade works better.Steve
Tommy, I've had the MM for several yrs. I now only use the Ecut and usually the Ewood/metal.
I still have the almost used round blade that came with it in the kit. I use it very little-makes hot cut soon and often distorts when that happens.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Like others have already said, the e-cut blades are the way to go. They last longer before getting dull.
I only use that round blade when I'm cutting sheetrock.
Well, I guess I need to educate myself on what the E blades are. But if you are making a long cut, don't you need a rounded shape like the one I'm using?
Nah. You don't plunge straight in, you sort of hold the blade at an angle so it's always in the wood, and move it along.
The big trick I've found to any Fein blade is to keep it moving, to keep heat from building up.
And as far as what the e-cut blades are? They're the expensive ones.<G>
this one:
View Image
available here:
http://www.waltertool.com/mmblades_1.html
Edited 1/5/2009 10:28 pm by mmoogie
buy the blades with larger teeth. the fine-toothed blades burn like mad.
I refuse to accept that there are limitations to what we can accomplish. Pete Draganic
Take life as a test and shoot for a better score each day. Matt Garcia
Is that the "precision E-cut" shown on that website? Should I get the wider blade since I'm making fairly long cuts(15" and 20")?
The precision ones are pretty delicate. They lose teeth if you look at them funny. I've got one of the wider ones and they can heat up and bind too. Nearly every time I start to use it I wind up switching back to the universal wood/metal one. The teeth are tough enough to hit the occasional nail and keep going, and they last quite a while.The wood only ones aren't cheap, and hit one nail and you are done with it.Steve
Edited 1/6/2009 7:43 am by mmoogie
The one I'm using is the "segmented recessed cropped" blade. But , the kit came with the universal metal/wood e-blade you like...1 3/8" wide. I'll give it a whirl. Does it go neatly into the corners? Any advantage to the wider one (2")?
Edited 1/6/2009 8:02 am ET by TommH
I don't know that the wider one will gain you much. Pobably just make you have to cut more slowly.You will be able to get into the corner better than with the segmented circle blade.You could screw a piece of 1x to the door to use as a straight-edge to help guide the cut straight and square to the face.Steve
Actually, the door construction itself provides the "straight-edge"; the "stops" are recessed slightly below the level of the flat plane of the door (typical construction) and this provides a built in straight edge to follow. So I don't think I'll have trouble keeping a straight line no matter which blade I use...just would like a little more speed, if possible, and less smoke/burn marks.
Just like with a circ. saw blade you try to keep blade surface contact with what's being cut to a minimum. Tilt the saw so you are using the corner of the blace in first, then push/pull that angled blade through the wood. I like to run that way a bit to score the line-then straighten (rock) the blade burying it to finish depth. Don't be overly agressive, but don't pansy out either.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
>>Don't be overly agressive, but don't pansy out either.<<When the blade binds and the MM starts shaking your shoulder joint out of its socket, you know you are pushing too hard!
Has anybody noticed that alot of usage will aggravate tendinitus in your elbow?
ANDYSZ2WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?
REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST
Yes.
I would raise my hand to second that, but I can't...http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
Yeah I used mine for 2 weeks straight several times a day for a large house with a bunch of bad windows and here it is 3 weeks later and my elbow is still hurting.
ANDYSZ2
WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?
REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST
speed and multi-master are seldom used in the same sentence. But I think the narrower e-cut will actually let you move a little faster than the wider one would. Have fun.
That does look like it. But as someone else pointed out and as I mentioned in a very recent discussion, the teeth break off easily so take it easy with the blade.
They ought to make a round blade with those larger teeth. The square-ended blades use the teeth a bit differently than a round blade because of the oscillation.
<!----><!----><!---->
I refuse to accept that there are limitations to what we can accomplish. Pete Draganic
Take life as a test and shoot for a better score each day. Matt Garcia
You have to cut in such a way as to move the sawdust out of the cut. Otherwise, it builds up into a thick, hot mess and overheats (ruins) the blade. This goes for all MM blades. Also, let the MM do the work. If you push too hard, the problem is even worse.
Well , I tried the E blade that came with the kit and it sure was more aggressive and fast, with no burning. The only downside was that it was more difficult to get a neat, straight cut...had to slow the motor down to get better control. I'm sure I will get better with practice. Thanks for all your helpful input!
http://multiblades.com/index.html
I strongly recommend that you go to this website and buy yourself the wood cutting blades.
I just finished an audio cabinet for my son and had to do the cutouts in the back through prefinished maple. the blades I got through this website where fabulous. Note: I got this website address from another breaktimer...It's not the first time it's been recommended on this site. Good luck!!
In other words, free-market capitalism is the best path to prosperity.
May be water under the bridge, but how many panels are you replacing? I'm thinking it would be faster to rout the "stops" off and make some replacements. I've done similar turning solid panel cabinet doors into glass inserts.
As others pointed out, lineal ft. per minute is not a MM trait.
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
Many moons ago (when I started this project), I posted here to discuss the best way to remove the stops. I was leery about using my router because I thought it would be unwieldy. I don't have a small trim router. I thought about a Roto-Zip, but the concensus here was the MM. I was still considering the Roto Zip but was talked out of it by the guy at Coastal Tool(plus it was an excuse to get a MM). Although the MM is slow, I can freehand it and don't have to set up straight edge for each cut...like I would with a router. So it's probably a wash timewise.
Gotcha, Tom.
FWIW and assuming all panels same size, I'd likely build a 1x4 frame to plant on the door and use it over and over. Use either a template guide on router base or perhaps a top bearing bit. Mid size router would ride on frame.
You were right to skip the roto zip, it seems like a limited use tool (despite marketing) that lands somewhere between a trim router and full size.
You got the method, just needed a better blade. I burned up the blade that came with MM on first jamb trimming. Teeth to small, blade to thin, chip clearance nil.
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
A template is probably a little too slick for me, although I do enjoy watching Tom Silva make one for just about every project he does. A little more experimenting... I found it helped to start off making a score line with several passes with a utility knife. Less burning and paint melting.
Edited 1/7/2009 5:18 pm ET by TommH
I can't resist an opportunity to bad mouth Roto-Zip. The only impressive thing about it is, it's ability to keep on
working no matter how hard I throw it across the room.
I'll take that as one more vote for the MM!
Further MM newby update. As part of the garage door project, i'm removing all old paint down to clean wood as well as replacing the panels. Sanding down the flat frame with the panels out is a snap, but the rounded stops (on the outside, the ones I didn't cut off) are a pain using scraper, sandpaper,etc. So I decided to try the MM detail sander and was amazed at how well it worked (I had a Bosch detail sander and it was a POS.) and how durable the sanding discs are. Sanding a rounded surface with a flat sander is tricky, but the end result was acceptible (not perfect) and much faster , easier, and less aggravating. Glad I bought it.
Last time I used my MM on the job, we were installing a built-in unit in a den. We had to remove existing casing and window trim to slip in the unit. I used the E-blade (bi-metal) on all the nails so we could replace same trim without much hassle. then I used the wood blade on the crown moulding, then I used it on base board, etc., etc. So the guy who was working with me decided he needed to get an MM as well, and did. Last week he said he tried to cut off 16s in order to replace some framing, and it fried the bi-metal e-blade on one nail. I am surprised. Has anyone else had that experience? Will one nail wreck that blade that fast? Or is that unusual? I'm really curious. thanks.
In other words, free-market capitalism is the best path to prosperity.
I've not had that happen. I've hit quite a few nails with them. A cut nail on an old house, I would want to avoid.Our local blade sharpening guy has invested in a wheel that will do MM blades! I just dropped two of the e-cuts off to see how he does...Steve
I haven't seen a cut nail in a long time...ouch. I would love to hear how someone can make enough money to sharpen one of the little buggers and still make it worth our time to have them sharpened!! Keep us posted. thanks.
At its most basic level, capitalism offers people the freedom to choose where they work and what they do … the dignity that comes with profiting from their talent and hard work. … The free-market system also provides the incentives that lead to prosperity -- the incentive to work, to innovate, to save and invest wisely, and to create jobs for others.†-President George W. Bush
In other words, free-market capitalism is the best path to prosperity.
That's the paradox of Central New York. If you buy a $4.00 sandwich at the country store it will
have $5.00 worth of lunch meat on it. Not to mention an entire jar of Mayo.
>>Not to mention an entire jar of Mayo.<<*sNorK*