Hey folks, long ago I used to hang around here, read and learn a lot, and very occasionally comment or ask a question. I think it’s fair to call me an advanced DIYer, or a professional in other fields of hands-on tool-using crafts. 40 years of auto mechanics full or part-time for a living, specializing in diagnostics, but also a modest amount of light electrical, metal fabrication, and interior finish work. I am meticulous but not fast. You probably wouldn’t want to hire me even if I weren’t 68. (Geeze. I don’t feel a day past 50). My wife had a career involving assembling and soldering Milspec aviation diagnostic equipment and high-precision fiber optic/photonics sensing equipment under a microscope. So we aren’t pro contractors, but we aren’t random hacks, either.
About 15 years ago, we finished up the major remodeling of our modest 1200 sf 2 bedroom 1-1/2 bath house. Just a typical 70’s ranch updated in the 80s. Kind of a Chevy Malibu house. We removed a wall to turn a kitchen and living room into a great room, replaced flooring throughout, moved some lights and receptacles, etc. We did it all with our own hands. I mention all of that to establish a baseline of our skills.
We also had a contractor replace doors, windows, siding and roofing, and seal the place up. They did a pretty good job. It really hurt to pay for it, but the results were good.
All good until nearly a year ago when my wife began experiencing mobility issues and other stuff. Spinal stenosis, affecting her balance and other things, plus bad knees and too much weight to get them replaced.
The one full bath currently has a one-piece acrylic 32×60 bath/shower unit in a 5×9 bathroom that has been good enough for the 20 years since we moved in. It’s smooth and easy to clean, which is important with our well water. It was installed against greenboard that has held up well, and we haven’t had any leakage or mold problems, so I think the installers did a decent job.
But I think we each soaked in it once. We are shower people. But now it’s getting to the point where getting into the tub and onto a stool to take a shower is very difficult for her. So we are looking for a shower that I can install by myself, or at least with a helper to assist with the heavy parts. Materials budget maybe $3000 plus or minus excluding plumbing, backerboard, caulk, etc? Just the shower kit.
We both absolutely abhor scrubbing grout lines, and that stuff wouldn’t get easier as we age. We are agreed on wanting the simple big completely smooth slabs of material idea – a solid base, and three flat walls. We don’t have big money for the most exclusive expensive stuff, whatever that is at the moment. But we haven’t been able to tell via Google searches what materials are good for our application, and what are garbage. All of the reviews seem to be interns regurgitating press releases, or manufacturer’s blurbs, or outright AI-generated garbage.
So, all that to ask for recommendations for or warnings against products. Swanstone, Corian, MAAX, Flexstone, Transsolid, Lowe’s or HD house brands, stuff I’ve never heard of, whatever? Has to be something that I as a homeowner can buy and that is likely actually in stock. Assume marble look, totally smooth finish, three piece walls 32 or 36 x 60, and taller than 72 inches, plus a sturdy compatible base. All of which can reasonably be handled by one or two people in a 5 foot wide bathroom, and the installation completed by us in a week or two once the weather warms up enough for outdoor or garage showers.
I could easily install one of the molded wall kits, but we don’t want either the extra seams or the built in shelves. I’m skeptical about handling huge format porcelain tiles, and some of the slabs I’ve seen in my wealthy inlaw’s showers look way too heavy to handle without a full crew, so I’m sure that imposes limits. I’m also aware that properly installing a shower base isn’t just plop it down and caulk a lot.
I’m sure I’ve left several things out, so feel free to ask, or call me an idiot.
Sorry for the novel, and thanks for whatever input you have.
Replies
I put a swanstone shower in to replace our 5 ft tub and ceramic tile.
This was in 2006, and it seems to be holding up well.
We have city water.
Thanks. It's been amazingly hard to find real-world information. How hard was it to handle the largest panel(s)? One person, two people, or mechanical aids?
Since retiring I’ve done display installs in the showroom of my plumbing supply. Most are dry so the only critical item is how it looks.
Have done several Swanstone panels, full shower to a base and tub enclosures.
The product is heavy, moderately awkward and all my cuts are in the back attached warehouse. Only help are the showroom staff and they’re usually busy, A cart and good luck keeps damage at bay.
These displays come and go depending on style and the demand……so putting it in so it looks good and consider the install knowing that a change in display is just around the corner.
One caution. Make sure a shower base is right on the money. Shims are a must. If the base isn’t right, the rest of the panels are a pain. A good fit on the panels to base and panel to panel are critical. While you would bed the panels in sealant in the corners and on the base……you don’t want any gaps which after a while will look bogus. Their color matched caulk will discolor over time (I think) so the sealant should not be seen.
Non marring clamps, wood spreaders, adjustable “Thirdhands” to brace in place should be on site for after dry fit and ready for final install. Sealant behind the panels and “in” the corners (not over the panel corner) should make it water tight. Try to make your inside corners (b/4 panels) perfect! Sealant behind the first corner panel so you can cram the side panel in tight.
That’s why I like doing these displays in retirement. They just have to look perfect. Don’t have to hold water and never will leak.
By the way. I use a saw blade that’s meant for Corian type products and a track saw for the cuts.
Best of luck.
You now should have the longest thread with fewest posts. Congrats!
Ok, just a bit more.
I did a Maax Utile panels and base for them also.
Hung on clips.
If the clips weren’t in a perfect plane, you pull your hair out hanging them.
I seem to remember any deviation on the wall frame (plumb) and the damn clips don’t align properly.
So, easy install with a caveat.
And they do recommend 2 people to install. No wonder the panels were that heavy and awkward.
Looked real good when I was done……
Thanks for both detailed replies. Do you have any comments on which panel product you would recommend for my situation?
Sorry to say that I can’t.
Before retirement I accepted responsibility for any recommendations I gave a customer and we installed. Part of the guarantee for choosing me.
I gave you as much info as I could provide and remember these installs never had water.
All I can give now is the best of luck!
I understand. You've already been very helpful.
I ordered and it was delivered to the house by truck.
I used a semi-dry mortar bed to lay the base on. Not sure I would do that again, adhesive might be just fine.
Advice about making the base level is right on, and making the side walls (I used moisture resistant drywall) where they need to be is worth extra attention.
I did it all moving to the second floor by myself. no hurry. The first panel was the hardest, but not too bad, as I recall.
I cut some furring strips 1x3 or 1x4 longer than the 5 ft dimension and bowed them between the end walls as a base to then place some similar cuts to keep the large panel in place to let it bond to adhesive.
I have some photos someplace I might be able to get to next week.
I never had any leaks, but had some mold develop (after ten years or so) associated with silicone I sealed the base to the wall with. If I did it again, I would put the silicone at the top of the base lip before setting the panels in place.
One thing to consider is placing good support in between studs and measure from the ceiling so you can install some good grab bars. (either right away, or if needed in a while after the install)
I had wondered how to hold the back panel in place using stuff I already have. Now I know, and it's much simpler than anything I would likely have come up with.
Good sturdy wide blocking for grab bars is definitely in the plan. I figure on photos and written measurements because my memory kind of sucks these days. The bars will go in with the wall installation.
I'm also planning to see if it will be practical to recess the base a bit to make it more accessible for a wheelchair if it comes to that. The floor framing is more flexible than I like, so I'll likely be sistering some deeper 2-bys onto the floor joists under the shower, and maybe even an additional post. I was thinking of adding blocking so I can put the subflooring flush with the top of the joists, and then almost a skim layer of mortar for final leveling.
I would really appreciate photos if you can find them. We likely won't start the project yntil it's warm enough to take showers outside or in the garage, because I don't expect this to be a one-day project.
I'd also wondered how to handle the silicone at the base without it getting fugly.
Caulk you see after finish is not the good thing. With most base and sidewall installs the caulk does the job under and to the bottom back of the side panels. A clean line lasts just as long as trying to caulk a solid line flush, imo.
I would never use silicone. Any slop or film won’t allow a touch up later without getting all the residue off.
That's kind of what I have been thinking. Oversimplifying a bit, the caulk goes between the panels and the wall as opposed to being applied after the panels are up.
What kind of caulk would you use instead of silicone? (I'm a retired auto mechanic. A carefully applied bead of silicone can be good on certain valve cover gaskets and a few other places. It's not necessarily what I would choose for a shower. The operational conditions are a bit different).
I’d probably use Lexel for the behind the seen water proofing caulk…..panels to base and back in the corners and behind seams.
After that, if you need caulk that shows I’d probably lean towards one of the color matching tile caulks.
Remember CLEAN surfaces make for a good seal and bond possible.
Tape both sides of caulk line you want so the edge is clean and strait after smooshing it out. Pencil lead thickness of caulk line probably won’t need that.
Thanks. I've never used Lexel, but I could see how it could be a good choice. I'll try *really* hard to not need any other caulk for the panels. I will definitely tape the edges, because my hands aren't quite as steady as they were 50 years ago.
I cut some furring strips 1x3 or 1x4 longer than the 5 ft dimension and bowed them between the end walls as a base to then place some similar cuts to keep the large panel in place to let it bond to adhesive.
I found a couple photos. Looks like I used 2x4s cut a little long and slid at a slight angle to keep the ends from each other, and from that braced the larger wall part in place. 1x4 strapping was used to spread the force from the 2x4s along the finish material.
Also is a framing photo with the 2x6 blocking for a future hand rail (for when I get old). Bracing at lower left is for a seat I installed (which my wife likes)
Third photo shows how I used vertical poles from a zipwall kit to hold foam in place while adhesive set up in my basement project. This needs something to push against. (I had plenty of stuff on shelves just to the right of the photo)
And a couple finished photos showing the seat, insert shelf, and the faucet end of the shower.
Thanks. Those are helpful.
just.a thought on the grab rails, stealing from This Old House and my own experience...TOH used 2x nailers set 3/4 in deep in the framing to then installed 3/4 plywood to essentially create a plywood wall so the grab rails could go anywhere.
I used hidden fasteners to attach 3/4 plywood to framing to make hanging a TV bracket easier, didn't matter where I needed to fasten the hangers.
My other thought is to use Wedi or a similar product and make your own design shower and then have a pro come in to do the finish work with large tiles.
Check out JLC online for custom shower designs, curbless showers and such, might be a good source of information
good luck
re-reading the post, self-leveling cement/underlayment is the way to go to get the surfaces level/flat
I'm sticking with the solid surface three wall slabs and a shower base idea. I know that the traditional FHB approach is to hire top professionals to do everything up to the latest standards, no matter how much it costs because the customer can easily pay for it all, but I'm a retired auto mechanic. I've never come close to making $100,000 a year in my life.
I pretty much have to do it all myself.
But I will put lots of solid blocking in for grab rails for my wife to hold on to.
Sorry guys, I may have gotten out of line. It's been a rough week.
Before we both retired my friend the mechanic and I had a very lucrative talent trade going on. Now……..it’s down to the advisory level as we both don’t care much to exercise our talents. But there’s always that “one thing” nobody else “could do”.
That is ok. No issues.
There is fine, and there is fine.
Thanks, guys.
“[Deleted]”
It’s no pleasure to see robot or misinformation posted here.
I’m installing a 3 wall Swanstone tub surround over a Kohler cast iron tub. Would appreciate any information on what adhesive products are being used to secure the walls to Hardybacker board. Also, what sealer primer products were used on the backer boards. Thanks.
I would follow the swanstone instructions.
Good advice about not having exposed silicone sealant.
Measure twice, as they say, dry fit, and make sure it meets at the top.