What painting tools leaves the smoothest finish? I’m using a mohair roller with 1/8″ nap, but there is still texture. I removed the existing paint, down to the shiny plaster surface, and want to put down a perfectly even layer.
Is spray-painting the only way to get an untextured layer?–because that is not an option right now. I’m willing to use different tools and brands, though. Heck, I’d squeegee the paint if that would do the trick.
Janet
Replies
A number of things affect finish but we can separate them into 3 parts - 1. Surface, 2. Materials and 3. Tools.
Surface - That's what you are painting. Whatever texture, or lack there of, it has, so will your finish.
Materials - That's what you are applying. Latex does not flow out like oil/ alkyd paint but every year, the fine folks at Benjamin Moore come up with a petter and better formula. The trick is to get good flow out/ leveling without getting sag.
Tools - This is your applicator. What works best with oil - not so much with latex.
Wait. There's a 4 element in this equation - Technique, also know as skill level. You're not going to get what you want on the first try, but you'll learn a heck of a lot if you pay attention.
So, with the above stated, what have you used? What affect, other than smooth do you want? What color are you painting? How many walls? Height (of walls)? Climate/ Location?
Frankie
Alkyd on wood, latex on plaster
Where the wood trim had varnish, the paint job came out nicely. I sanded the wood smooooth and used a tack cloth. Benjamin Moore alkyd primer followed with Impervo Low-Lustre Enamel (shade = White Dove) with some Penetrol mixed in. Applied with a Corona natural-bristle brush; tipped off the surface. It leveled out so beautifully, I wasn't quite prepared for the results on the next section.
The painted trim and the front door were old and a bit banged up. I removed the paint and filled the dings but could not sand enough to flatten the grain. I expected to see texture from the wood grain, but not brush marks! Same tools and Impervo Enamel. Maybe I'm not working fast enough?--this was a larger area than the bits of trim I had painted last week.
I am painting two types of wall surface: Smooth plaster, and plaster with a few layers of old paint. This is where I switched to Benjamin Moore Regal flat latex (in an off-white called "Fossil") with some Floetrol added. Used a mohair roller sleeve, 1/8" nap, and cut in with a Wooster synthetic sash brush. Still got texture from the roller. Added more Floetrol but still got roller texture. Tried tipping off the surface but that just left brush marks instead.
Janet
Most all latex flat paints work best with a 10-15mm refill, try a microfibre. You will need to apply enough paint to the surface to allow your coating to level and smooth itself off. With a 1/8 to 1/4" mohair refill you are appling too little paint and the surface is drying too fast for the product to smooth over. If you are able to work quickly try Benjamin Moores AURA, the finish is amazing.
In most case a foam roller gives you the smoothest finish.
But a lot depends on the paint -- some are much more "self-leveling" than others. There are additives for the paint that will improve this -- ask at a "real" paint store.
And of course technique is important.
Note that most flat/satin wall paints are "eggshell" -- intended to have a slightly textured finish. This helps hide imperfections in the walls, and prevents reflections.
Have you tried Purdy 'White Dove' roller covers? I really think they are great.