So I have recently been converted to star drive screws. They truly drive better than square or phillips. But they seem to break more often, especially if I’m removing them. Does anyone know why this is? (I’m a landscape carpenter; I build fences, arbors, and trellises, and I drive them in with an 18v cordless)
Erik
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Replies
What brand of screw?
Have you tried an impact driver?
Many of the brands are somewhat brittle. The standard screw that we usually have good results with are the Gold Star brand. Still, it's not uncommon to have screws break when going through knots or whatnot.
I'd love to find a really good brand that uses metal similar to what's in the Timberloc screws.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
I'd recommend the GRK brand screws- they're all star drive and very hard to snap. Spendier but worth it IMO.
Mike
I'll second that opinion.I like the GRK color-coded bits too. T-10 & T-15 are easy to confuse...kinda nice when they are yellow and red, respectively. All my bits used to be gun metal gray--now they are pretty colors. : )
Those GRK color-coded bits are incredible. Outlast regular ones 5 to 1. They're a bargain really.
I special order the GRK bits in bulk. 25 of each color/size should last me a few years. Good stuff. I very rarely break GRK bits or screws. If I break one screw in a thousand it would suprise me.
The littel T-10 in Ipe` are easier to break, but I can probably count on my fingers how many #8 screws I have broken from GRK over the years
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I've snapped a few in hickory too (joining cabinet faceframes). I drill small countersinks, with a Unibit, for the little trimheads when using them in hardwoods--that helps.
I've found that I occasionally break a GRK drive tip, but rarely break an actual screw. I was speaking to a GRK rep at the Providence JLC Live last spring and mentioned that I had recently broken two of their big bolts (5/16" shanks) in one day (very rare to break one, let alone two). He told me that the next time that happens, I should contact them and provide them with some code number off the box. Apparently, their manufacturing is done in various locations/countries and they can determine exactly when and where a particular screw was manufactured by some code number on the box. I got the impression that they really want to hear about any defects so they can make manufacturing/material corrections if necessary, but then again he was a salesman.
I got a batch of 1000 screws from McFeelys that about 4% (or 43 screws) had a misstamped head. Same thing, they wanted the batch number. Sent me a box of 100 to cover the 43 that were bad.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
He is dead serious that they want the info on any broken screws to trace back.
his son is one of my electricians
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Despite the fact that I love the Torx driving system, I have had similar issues with the star drive screws. I note that the shaft is smaller than that of a comparable phillips or square drive screw. Screws in general are brittle when compared to common nails. If you feel that phillips or sqaure drive are more durable, I would continue to use them, but try an impact driver instead of a drill. I have a hitachi 12v model that runs circles around any drill with no cam out or rounding of square driving holes. It's really amazing what these things do. It took me about 10 minutes to realize that my drill would be gathering dust after I used one of these things- I don't use it for anything but drilling anymore.
The star drive is probably a victim of its own success.
Slot or Phillips will cam out at much lower torques than the "Torx" star design, so they cam out below the breaking torque of the shank, while the star keeps on holding and delivers enough torque to break the screw instead.
The solution may be to measure or limit the torque you apply.
-- J.S.
Agreed, the problem with torx screws is the torx head, they don't strip, so all that torque is transferred to the shank.but man they will make you lazy, half the pressure, and any angle will drive those screws, compared to a phillips, or even a square drive.
The thing I don't like about the torx head is that they don't stay on the driver nearly as well as square drive screws. You can't do the one-handed reach with them unless you use a screw starter gizmo.
People never lie so much as before an election, during a war, or after a hunt. --Otto von Bismarck
Dan,I'm with you, square drive. Especially in high thread finish screws. I keep SS 1-1/4" to 3/12" square drive on the shelf.Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
maybe you need a better system. I have very little trouble doing that with GRKs screws and drivers.
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This is with GRK screws and drivers. A square drive screw will wedge onto the bit fairly well, and if it's a hair loose you an use a bit of paper to provide more grip. The GRK screws flop around on the end of the bit, and the odd shape doesn't easily allow the paper trick.
People never lie so much as before an election, during a war, or after a hunt. --Otto von Bismarck
If they are GripRite they will break or grind off no matter what.
GRK is the best star drive,
"Being a cowboy aint all ridin and shootin" - Tim Mooney
erikpeter,
If this occurs going into hardwood the answer is simple, you must predrill into hardwood!
With soft woods suh as pine etc.. the issue becomes length. If putting in a 6 inch or logner screw the torque quickly exceds the capability of the shank. there too a simple predrill becomes the solution.. One drill holds th predrill bit one drill has the torqus head.. it's simply a few added seconds that way.. .
I placed my numbers on the no call list several years ago and only occasionally receive a phone call from solicitors.Sometimes I say "did you know I'm on the no call list?". Their tone changes rapidly and they apologize and say goodbye.A year or two ago there was a guy making some money by sueing businesses who were calling him.He wanted to get these and welcomed them calls and kept a recorder by the phone in the hopes he could get a call from a company with "deep pockets".
^^^^^^
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