Replies

1. 
   davidmeiland | Jun 11, 2006 08:15pm | #1

   What's underneath that you are trying to keep the water off?

1. 
   Philter | Jun 11, 2006 10:35pm | #2

   NOT living space, I'm planning to use the space for building material storage, thanks,Phil."If 'tis to be,'twil be done by me."

1. 
   Piffin | Jun 12, 2006 12:23am | #4

   I guess I missed making my maion point after all thatWhat was first storage, they decided to turn into a small apt for the help. It doesn't work out well 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   Piffin | Jun 12, 2006 12:16am | #3

   Have you checked how much free ventilation space Trex wants under it?

   I do decks like this with EPDM. Considering how hard it will be to ever fix a leak should one develope, you want the very best roofing you can get, not something to just get by on.

   I&W shield products say that they are only good for exposure to the elements for thirty to ninety days. The gaps between deck boards constitue exposure. Also, the contact points where the sleeprs ride on the I&W will wear through soon.

   I tried something like this once. It was a disaster. The original deck was an antique painted sailclothe, which was done generations ago in coastal towns. It required high maintainance, sweeping snow off and repainting constantly, and only lasted ten years more or less.
   New owners bought and wated something better, but the elevation change to the interior floor was minimal, not allowing for pitched plywood, EPDM, sleepers, and finished clear fir. Since the space under this deck was open, for storage of rakes, wheelbarrows, firewood, pumps and pressure tanks, etc, I reasoned that if a leak started, it could be spotted easily and dealt with. And my idea was certainly better than the old sailclothe roof. There was another deck up above this also so the weather exposure would be minimal.

   So I placed I&W on plywood, ripped 1/4" PT, sealed clear fir T&G on all sides with two coats, and installed it, then painted in in three coats.

   They liked the space so much they wanted to enlarge it and add a room in under it. I refused, saying that it would all have to be redesigned to handle the new requirements.

   They got another contractor. He didn't take half the precaustions I did. but thought he was following my example. The room he built in below has lots of leaks, and the fir he installed extending this original level, is all rotting soft and punky after three more years. I think he did not seal the fir or use PT breather strips, just nailed it directly to the I&W surface au naturale, then paint it over.

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   davidmeiland | Jun 12, 2006 12:29am | #5

   >>>Have you checked how much free ventilation space Trex wants under it?

   I was wondering that when looking at the 'leaf' deck in the Trex picture, in the other thread. Looks pretty low to the ground, and I know they now have some minimum clearance, after having product failures.

2. 
   DDay | Jun 12, 2006 04:30am | #8

   I'll hijack this thread for a quick question.  I used grace I & W on my roof and ran it up the side of the chimney (internal) and over the cricket, etc.  With all the rain we had I notice some minor water on the chimney in the addition I'm working on now.  The chimney is flashed and the roof is on, well I took up the few around the chimney to investigate.  I notice the Grace that I ran up the side of the chimney as the back up protection pull away from the masonary.  It was stick on there very well but I guess the moisture released it.  I checked the Grace site and they say to use a primer on concrete/masonary surfaces.  How do you handle this. thanks.

1. 
   Piffin | Jun 12, 2006 11:22pm | #9

   Use the primer. There is too much dust and scaling from massonry. The primer helps consolidate and make for a stickierr surface. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   DDay | Jun 13, 2006 02:43am | #10

   Could you recommend a brand.  I've called a lot of the supply houses down here and they have no clue what I'm talking about, they all want to sell roof cement.  The grace primer only comes in 5 gal pails and no one carrys that anyway.

1. 
   Piffin | Jun 13, 2006 03:30am | #11

   See if you can borrow a quart or pint of foundation coating 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   curley | Jun 13, 2006 04:01am | #12

   If he couldn't find a quart somewhere, could he use the undercoating used for cars that comes in a spray can? Isn't that the same general stufff

3. 
   DDay | Jun 13, 2006 04:08am | #13

   I have know someone who owns a large auto body shop and can get plenty of rubber undercoating.  I just want to know it will work, I don't want to find out it didn't, that would be much too late, lol.

4. 
   Piffin | Jun 13, 2006 04:32am | #14

   i've never used it. I suppose it cures up hard and fast. You want it thin to penetrate the masonry and somethng that stays tacky for awhile. Maybe cut a witha few drops of kero. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

5. 
   DDay | Jun 13, 2006 05:10am | #15

   rubber undercoating doesn't stay soft and it really is only tacky for less than 30 minutes until it dries.  I would not say it get hard hard but it isn't soft and I don't know if it really allows expansion and contraction.  Also, cars don't last as long as a house, so it might have a useful life of 10 or 15 years.

   I'd rather not break new ground.

   Thanks again for the advice.

3. 
   peteshlagor | Jun 12, 2006 12:35am | #6

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=74786.4

    

1. 
   johnharkins | Jun 12, 2006 01:27am | #7

   I've done it at my own house under an ipe deck
   however I did cover the I&W w/ rolled roofing under protected / roof area & granulated torchdown ( UV friendly ) over the area exposed to elementsI buffer the sleepers w/ those black licorice looking setting blocks window glazers use and liquid nails so as not to aggravate the waterproofing layers
   these layers were all "leftovers" from projects but work very well togetherI would not worry about ventilation specs of trex if it is laid in a dry environment ( in the event there is a roof above the part of it where sleepers may get next to nothing in depth )

4. 
   JohnSprung | Jun 17, 2006 02:15am | #16

   You might try the paint-on roof system from

   http://www.conservationtechnology.com.

   IIRC, they have instructions for using it under a deck. 

    

    

   -- J.S.