I was talking to the floor supplier of the pine floor I am installing and he was saying that I might want to use a 16g trim nailer to install the floor as oppose to a regular floor nailer. The reason why he suggested this way is because the wood is soft you may put a lot of indentations in the wood with the floor nailer. I noticed when I put in an oak prefinished floor there were some marks here and there. He also recommended that I use a pad sander on the floor because it is a soft wood and could easily be damaged with a drum sander if I was not experienced. Sanding could start at 80 grit and end at 100 grit and maybe up to 120 grit. The floor is milled to very close tolerances and it is the mill glaze that I want to remove. He also suggested that I use PL400 construction adhesive at the ends of the 6″ and 8″ boards to help reduce cupping. I could always face nail the boards at the ends and this would help. What do you think of this.
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What kind of pine is this, Rob? Is it southern yellow, ponderosa...something else? Is it 4 square, or tongue & groove, or what? Is it end matched? Is it quarter sawn or flat sawn? Boards that wide, I'd be surprised if you could blind nail them, but I guess it's possible...in an environment where the humidity remains very, very consistant throughout the year. Where are you located?
The floor is white pine that is tongue and groove and is not end matched. It will probably be flat sawn and is coming in widths of 4", 6" and 8". The install is at a cottage in Southern Ontario Canada.
I've never worked with white pine, Rob, but that sounds too wide to not face nail to me. Hopefully someone with more knowledge will come along.