Hey all-
I’m building a simple 1 stall garage, I’m not a pro, but I know the fundamentals well enough to build a storage shed. I have a question…
We poured the slab to slope 1″ over its 20′ length, to make sure any water runs out.
When I frame the walls, do I need to worry about this 1″ over 20′, or is that relatively insignificant in the greater scheme of things? If I need to worry about it, what should I do? Shim under the sole plate? If so, with what, and generally speaking, how? What do the pro’s do?
Another option I guess is to stack all the wall studs, mark then end one at 1″, draw a diagonal across 1″ to 0″ on the other end, and cut each stud (each a slightly different length), so that the top plate is level.
A third option is to just frame the walls and rack the sides a little less than 1/2″ (8′ walls) to bring it to plumb. We’re not talking about a huge slope.
Opinions solicited, thanks in advance,
E.
Replies
I am not a builder. The question is a fun one. If it were me, as the perfectionist, I would stack the stubs and cut them all a different length. Should be simple enough.
I hope a real builder answeres your question.
Yeah it is n issue, not a big one,but still enough to give you a headache as construction nears completion.
You do have anchor bolts in don't you?
Set the mud sill (PT) with leveling shims in the area between anchors, snug the anchor nuts just enough to hold the sill plate firmly on the shims.
Get some drypack cement product from your local tile store, add just barely enough water to make it crumbly (squeeze some in your fist... it should break into a couple of pieces when you release pressure.) Mix small amounts, about a gallon at a time.
pack it as firmly as you can under the anchors (use a hammer and wooden punch) about 6" either side, if you notice the sill plate rising as you pack, then you have gone far enough away from the anchor. tighten the anchor nuts 1/2 turn and let cure for a day.
After you have framed the walls, finish drypacking the sill plate and remove the shims as you go. retighten the anchor nuts.
Easy job and prevents all problems trying to work with a parallelagram(sp).
SamT
"Law reflects, but in no sense determines the moral worth of a society.... The better the society, the less law there will be. In Heaven, there will be no law, and the lion will lie down with the lamb.... The worse the society, the more law there will be. In Hell, there will be nothing but law, and due process will be meticulously observed."
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From 32866.117
Why not make walls on the deck....square them diagonally and face with plywood & whatever membrane you plan on using. Then get your level points and pull a string line from each corner , shim a double sole plate to suit so as everything fits without a lot of extra hassle cutting each stud individually.
Best of luck with your project
eric... build your front wall, then build your back wall so the top plate is level with the top plate of the front wall..
lay out your side walls to account for the slope, and cut your studs to individual length so your top plate will be level all around.. you will thank yourself when it comes to the roof framing.. and cutting studs to their correct length is not that big a deal..
ALSO.. make sure you use a PT sole plate in contact with the concrete..
and
next time.. slope the slab about 3" in 20 ".. 1 " is not enough to make the water run.. even if your grades are perfect which they probably are not
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I totally ditto Mike's method. I've had to do that numerous times when rebuilding on old stemwalls that were pretty far out of level. As Mike says, cutting the individual studs is not difficult at all.
by my rough calculations, 16 studs in a 20' wall at 16"oc. subtract 1/16th from each stud as you frame from long point to short point (side walls). back wall is 1 inch shorter studs than front wall.
They way I was taught to do it, is to build the wall flat, then cut shims to go beside each anchor bolt, then place a morter bed along the full wall length slightly proud of the shims, stand and set the wall and tap down to settle morter bed, then after morter bed cures, drive out shims and pack in morter where the shims were.
Similar to one of the above responses, but a little quicker than packing drypack morter under the full 20' length of the wall.
Sure, or you can stack your studs on edge, measure the long and short ones, and draw a line and mark them all in like one minute.
I'm not one for playing games.
There's a lot of good responces, and I might not have even thought of any of them but my geuss is that Ericb75 not being a "master" may find more frusteration trying to level such a slope. I don't think I've worked much from level, and often I chose not to. That's of course, in Buskirk.