Replies

1. 
   DanH | Nov 11, 2015 12:25pm | #1

   There are several different "solid surface" materials, and several different meanings to the word "fabricate".

   Ordinary Corian and similar solid plastic materials can, to a reasonable degree, be cut to shape and finished by a competent DIYer (with the appropriate tools).  But some sorts of installations, and the specific joining techniques they involve, call for specialized tools and training.

   "Quartz" (sand/epoxy composite), and, of course, "natural" products such as slate, granite, and marble, require somewhat more specialized tools.

   Concrete something you can DIY, though.

   There is a shop in our area that will sell a DIYer plastic "solid surface" materials, especially if you let them do some of the cutting and finishing.

1. 
   jimmiem | Nov 11, 2015 02:41pm | #2

   I'm thinking Corian type.  Formica has a solid surface line.  From what I read I've got the necessary tools to work with this type of stuff.  I'm in Massachusetts.  I did find an on-line site that will sell to the public.  I've got a bit of reading to do to understand how to work with this.  My wife has the final word so it may just be Formica or the Granite finish Formica. 

2. 
   gfretwell | Jan 16, 2016 10:27am | #8

   I just came into a quantity of quartz and it seems to cut OK with a diamond blade but what id the preferred way of polishing it. My diamond cup wheel that I work granite with seems a bit aggressive and I thought the diamond pads might just clog up.

1. 
   renosteinke | Jan 16, 2016 10:43am | #9

   Just A Thought, Greg ...

   On a recent job, I found that the current fashion in building is to polish the bare concrete floors. I was amazed - the finished floors looked like they had been covered with molten glass!

   When the crew had to work in close to corners, around obstructions, etc., their tool was a common right-angle grinder with special wheels. These wheels looked just like the wheels on the big machines - discs with many little round dots on them, and generous spacing between the dots.

   The wheels were available in several grits, and were generally used dry in the detail hand work. I assume the wheels were made using some sort of plastic impregnated with diamonds.

   Now.... quartz being 'softer' than granite? I should not be surprised- granite counters are actually made from slabs of stone, while quartz (an even harder stone) counters are actually a matrix of quartz chips and epoxy. In a way, this is more like 'concrete' than 'stone.'

2. 
   calvin | Nov 11, 2015 06:25pm | #3

   Jim

   In the 80's I worked with corian commercially in Malls.  We were able to purchase the material bulk being for commercial use.  At that time and I thought even now, no sales to individuals regardless of experience or training.

   in the recent past I've  done display work and bath / shower surrounds with solid surface product purchased from second party suppliers.  Sometimes as a "kit" from Swanstone, Kohler etc.  Occasionally as limited sized sheets from corian etc. suppliers.

   while the sheet goods can be cut and routed with usual carpentry tools, joining, sanding and polishing take a little more.  Butt joining can be done with clamps, but you don't have time to fart around.  Professional joining is done with specialized small compressor driven clamping pads.

   post a picture or sketch of the layout, might be easier to advise with an idea of the difficulty.

1. 
   jimmiem | Jan 16, 2016 09:30am | #7

   Back To Formica

   After reading all the info concerning obtaining and working with Corian it looks like Formica may be the way to go.  I've seen that the current Formica surface can be removed with acetone and the new Formica top attached to the existing substrate.  Is this the way to go or should the whole counter top (Formica and substrate) be removed and replaced?

3. 
   jimmiem | Nov 14, 2015 07:37am | #4

   Finefinish Soapstone

   Thank You for the suggestion.  I like the soapstone.  My wife would be ok with it but the range of color choices don't work for her.  Her decorating and color matching skills are much better than mine so I defer to her on those matters.   Our cabinets and countertops were basic builder stuff installed when we bought the house over 25 years ago......we did not have the opportunity to upgrade back then. With just the 2 of us the kitchen is still in good shape.  The Formica countertops are plain and are in very good shape. My wife would be happy with replacing the countertops with a more colorful Formica. I took her to a showroom to see what products and colors are available and once she saw what was available it was off to the races......this ain't over yet.  I've got the time and the tools so if it's DIY doable I'd like to do it. 

4. 
   Adrian_W | Dec 14, 2015 02:53pm | #5

   Fabricating

   I'm a certified fabricator, though i haven't been doing much with it the last four years. But, in my neck of the woods, DIY'ers cannot buy the product from any of the suppliers for typical residential jobs without being certified on at least one brand, which involves doing some training under supervision. You can buy it for commercial without being certified, but if you were looking for 1-4 sheets (making it look like a residential job), you might get asked to produce blueprints or something else to prove it wasn't a residential job. You can buy the shower kits etc. without being ceritified no problem. May be different in other places.

   The reason for the requirement is that while most of the actual work isn't that difficult, it is all about knowing what to do and what not to do..... especially around sinks, cooktops, places where there may be heat involved etc. If youmess it up the manufactuers are afraid people will blame the material rather than the fabricator. And there is a learning curve to doing nice built up edges, seams, sinks etc..... expensive material to practice on if you are learning as you go. It's not something i would recommend. but if you were determined to go ahead, and someone would sell you the material (and there is a black market in solid surface), I would recommend looking at the Pinske Tools website and maybe buying his DVD to see how it is worked. The tools certainly make things a lot easier, but would be expensive for a one-off job.

1. 
   jimmiem | Dec 14, 2015 08:42pm | #6

   Adrian

   Thank you for the information and advice.  Based on what you have said I'm not sure that it is practical for me to do it myself.  I will check out the DVD. 

1. 
   IdahoDon | Jan 16, 2016 11:21pm | #10

   In the 20 or so solid surface kitchen countertops I've seen all have had cracks - even a commercial buffet in a casino that was overbuilt on a big budget.....personally I'm amazed it's still used for any kitchen countertops.  Maybe the 21st will be crack free.....I'm guessing the next 20 will be as bad as the last 20.

1. 
   DanH | Jan 16, 2016 11:39pm | #11

   The kitchen countertops in our house are "quartz", installed about 7 years ago. But the two bathrooms have "solid surface" vanities that are 39 years old, and still in quite good shape, with no cracks.

1. 
   IdahoDon | Jan 16, 2016 11:50pm | #12

   in bathrooms solid surface does hold up well..... The short lengths and lack of heat keep cracks to a minimum 

2. 
   renosteinke | Jan 17, 2016 10:07am | #13

   Can't Say I've Noticed Cracks

   Then again, it's not my trade.

   Still, I HAVE seen a number of solid countertops that have features that simply beg for cracking. These details include sharp corners  (especially around sinks), holes too close to the edge (again, often at sinks), and excessive overhang. Lately, I've also seen several that lacked the usual plywood underneath.

   I've seen details on others that make clear that these tops are now often installed by folks with minimal 'fine' construction experience. Chips, tool marks, irregular edges, rough glue lines, excessive caulk. It's clear that the business has become the domain of the most limited general contractor. This always makes me wonder what other marginal work is concealed behind the pretty veneer.

5. 
   IdahoDon | Jan 17, 2016 10:53am | #14

   I almost forgot to mention that there are some solid surface edges for use under hpl (high pressure laminate) that are color matched so edges don't look so pieced together..... and don't forget you can under mount some stainless sinks - I think Formica even had a video on it.

6. 
   Adrian_W | Jan 18, 2016 09:01am | #15

   Cracks

   The only times I have ever seen cracks in solid surface is when people broke the rules that are taught in fabrication certification courses. You are taught to avoid 'stress riser's'.... for example and inside corner can not be sharp, you need to build up the edge in a particular way and then provide a nice inside radius. Any cutouts similarly can NOT have a sharp corner, and and cutouts for cooktops etc. are also reinforced, they must have radius corners, and have a heat sink with metal tape. Any twisting during installation can also cause a crack, but that would be repaired at the time I would think. Any holes must be drilled with holesaws, and any toolmarks, anywhere, sanded away. Localised heat can definitely cause problems..... i just saw one i did  in a cafeteria that has warped but they put a heat-generating fridge on top of it, which they were told not to do.

   I worked for two companies that did a lot of fabricating, and then I did it for a long time under my own shingle. I followed the rules, and have never had a callback for cracking at any of those three companies. We did crack a corner putting one in (the boss had his hands on it when it cracked so he had to wear it), but that's it. I'd never say it is my favourite material for a countertop, but it is a good solid material that does well over time. I've seen some in one building I did almost twenty years ago and it is holding up fine except for problems beyond the fault of the material.

1. 
   gfretwell | Jan 18, 2016 11:16am | #16

   My biggest test of Corian is a piece that is on my work bench. Originally it was skinning the tail gate of my wife's truck to use as a writing surface when it was down. It was a construction truck so it did take a beating there for 5 years. When we sold the truck in Obama's clunker deal, it ended up on my work bench as a surface for working on things I wanted to keep clean. It has been there for another 6-7 years and so far it is still in pretty good shape. (no cracks but a few scratches)