Solid vs. Engineered Wood Flooring
Added small 8′ x 15′ room to expand kitchen / family room. Want to install same floor as existing, pre-finished 2 1/4″ red oak strip. Kitchen and family room have existing 2 layers of sheet vinyl flooring ( sent samples to test for asbestos, late 60’s house pretty sure it has it ), on 5/8″ ply on 1 x 6″ subfloor over crawl space. Was originally going to remove all existing sheet goods and install 3/4″ strip oak floor. Now if I leave sheet flooring and install 3/4″ over my transitions at door are approaching 7/8″. Alternative is to install a good quality 1/2″ engineered floor over existing, stapled down. Any experience with similar conditions ? I have looked at dozens of manufacturers, any favorites from an installation standpoint ? Thanks.
Rob
Replies
I'd say asbestos in the vinyl from the 60's would be very rare. However, those floors were glued down all over, not just on the perimeter. What type of doors will the new level be affecting? Passage or exterior? You can use a threshold for passage doors and openings. Exterior doors will have to be pulled and rehung if they hit. I would mark the joists and screw down the existing before going with anything new.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
The new floor will tie into 3 interior doorways, no problem to cut down and one new Anderson exterior door, which has enough room for 3/4" flooring. When you say screw down the existing, you mean through the existing sheet vinyl to keep it in place ? I guess I am more concerned with a solid install and not so much with height differences. Rob
Not so much to keep the vinyl in place, Rob. It ain't going anywhere. Just to make sure the subfloor and underlayment are secure. In those days, only nails were used and some work loose.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
That is good insurance, my new subfloor is 3/4 T & G, nailed and glued, but I think I am going to go back over with some screws before I install the flooring, I hate a squeeky floor.
Anyone purchased flooring from Hosking Hardwood on the Internet ?Rob
The asbestos in vinyl sheet goods is in the felt backing and in the 60's it was used but like VA tile and asbestos siding the asbestos was long fibered so it is not as prone to becoming airborne as pipe wrap which is short fibered. The industry that was created by the asbestos problem feeds off of this lack of knowledge so don't let this info get around.
I'd like to know what it takes to remove the asbestos tile safely and legally. I've been the electrical foreman on a couple of school renovations where the stuff has been pulled up and the guys pulling it up were not wearing moon soots and such. Seems like they just kept it damp when they were pulling it and sent it off to the landfill.
Seems like solid 3/4" would still be my first choice just for refinishing reasons down the road if you are going to live there for awhile.
Chris
I found a publication by the Resilient Floor Covering Institute titled "Recommended Work Practices for The Removal of Resilient Floor Coverings" It is basically geared toward the homeowner, how to remove by scraping and wetting to keep any fibers from becoming airborne. Also deals with bagging and proper disposal. Interesting that the instructions do not require any type of respirator. I have tested some areas on my floor, some of the perimeter comes up fairly easy, but as you get into the traffic areas it take alot more work.
You wonder how many people just go in and tear up old flooring and not think twice about it. I do like the idea of a solid 3/4" product, I think it will span the new to old areas better and any variances in height.Rob
I doubt sheet vinyl had any asbestos in it. You will know for sure soon enough.
I have used engineered floors and would never put it in my own home (again). Face veneer is too thin and will wear too easily. For the cost, I would go with the heavier solid oak, and if it meant picking up the old flooring, I would do it.
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals