Replies

1. 
   excaliber32 | Feb 07, 2010 07:03am | #1

   -- In looking at various offerings on youtube about drywall hanging tips I saw one 'expert' putting end screws in between the butted ends of two sheets. Is this right? I've never seen this or heard of it before.

   I've put nails or screws in between below the board to hold it up, but not the butt ends. I'd imagine he's holding back the joint just a little bit to make it easier to finish. 1/8" is usually what you shorten the board for that purpose.

   -- How important is it to 'stagger' the sheets on the ceilings? On the walls? So that the ends do not form a continuous line across the ceiling. What happens if you don't? -(or, in my case with some of the ceilings, didn't?)

   Staggered joints are stronger. Sheetrock has a ply, like plywood, and you gain maximum strength by minimizing contiuous joints. Being that sheetrock only adds a tiny amount to the structural integrity of the building, it is not absolutely necessary to stagger joints. You can hang the panel on the walls both vertically and horizontally. You have a better chance for the joints failing later too, if they are continuous.

   -- Should the unfinished butt ends really just be set against one another without any 'shaping'? It appears to me that they will clearly be visible after painting. Do taper/mudders somehow deal with these butt ends?

   You can shape them with a utility knife or rasp. Personally, I don't because I'm usually in too big a hurry. The joint compound is actually built up around the joint and feathered smooth up to a foot or more on either side of it.

   -- I've been using course thread drywall screws. Some have said nails are a lot handier .. faster. Any thoughts? (continuing with screws is fine with me).

   Screws. They hold better, and with a good drywall gun, are alot faster too. On ceilings, for instance, you need two nails eight inches apart, and with screws I usually go one about a foot apart. You can find a good reconditioned drywall gun on the internet for as little as forty dollars.

2. 
   DanH | Feb 07, 2010 08:47am | #2

   X has given you some decent advice. Just a couple of points:

   There are a lot of techniques that the "pros" use that it simply doesn't pay for DIYers to take the time/practice to learn. Don't be afraid to do something the "dumb" way (or simply a way that makes more sense to you) rather than mimicking what the pros do -- do what works -- drywall is not rocket science.

   Lots of ways to finish butt joints. If you're clever you can make up a piece of plywood with shims on it to fit behind the joint (which you arrange to NOT fall on a stud/joist) such that tightening the screws into the plywood pulls the end of the drywall back a hair, leaving a depression to allow taping/mudding without buildup. Other ways to do this too, probably even some commercially-made pieces. (But then again just meeting on a stud/joist and spending a few extra minutes feathering out the joint when you mud works too.)

1. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Feb 07, 2010 05:59pm | #3

   If you did manage to lay those butt joints on a board instead of between, look at the Butt Taper (yes, it sounds like a high school prank). It shapes those joints to make them easier to hide.

3. 
   megspop | Feb 10, 2010 04:47pm | #4

   I did not read the other replies but I would recommend screws instead of nails, screw each piece of drywall (not between butt joints and screws at a minimum of 8' apart on ends. Stagger the sheets so you wont have a continuous line floor to ceiling or length of ceiling. This will also break up the areas where there is no bevel on the sheetrock.

   Start at the ceiling so you get the corner joint nice and tight. Leave the sheetrock about 1/2 " off the floor to allow for shrinkage in your new framing.

   It doesn't sound like you have very much experience taping so I would recommend hiring a taper. A 5 room addition isnt the job I would try out a new trade.

   Best of luck.