I have a two family that I am renovating upstairs. I’m on a tight budget, so I’m trying to avoid too many costs.
I had to pull off the tile walls in the shower/tub surround in the bathroom (tiles were failing) and I see that the 5′ tub (standard white enameled tub over iron) has some rust and rotting spaces along the nailing flange (that vertical flange that rests against the wall studs).
However, there’s one spot in the back right corner, where the tub deck and two sides of the nailing flange meet, where the flange has simply rotted away. If water hit the deck at that point, there’s no flange to keep it in, and it would just pour down behind the tub.
I’d prefer not to replace the tub, because for a number of reasons it would lead to other repairs.
So, can anyone help with some ideas on how to repair both the spots that are corroding and this hole in the corner? Is there a tub epoxy and then enamel coating I can turn to, that you might recommend? Do I need to sand down the rusty areas, etc. first (I’m assuming so, but the tub is still in place, and it’d be impossible to get around the backside of the tub).
Any help is appreciated. I searched the forum and got nothing, and I googled for a solution, and just got a bunch of tub refinisher links. If there’s a kit to use, I’d rather do it myself before Thursday this week.
Replies
I doubt there is anything that will work.
Can you post a pic?
I'm thinking that you may be able to use some fiberglass cloth and epoxy to re-create the flange, but that assumes that you have at least a little bit of the flange left for the fiberglass to adhere to. If the flange is completely gone, I don't know how you would keep water out.
Hmmm... Answers are not encouraging.The tub's in place, and I'd rather not remove it, because it's likely to crack the floor tile (which was added after the tub had already been there).I put some pictures here: http://picasaweb.google.com/t.blog.w/BathTubRot
Sorry, some are duplicates.We're doing a tub surround with green board and 5 pc fibreglass (or acrylic) panels. I suppose I could just caulk the heck out of that area, but it will be a rental, so I'll never really be sure if the caulk has failed, etc. So, just looking to see if there's something I can do now, short of replacing or pulling the tub.
I would feel okay about building it up, in place, with fiberglass, and then gelcoating the front. The most important thing would be to get the rust off for a good bond.
Forrest
Thanks. I'll try that.On a related question -- is there any kind of chemical I can apply to wood that has some showings of the start of mold/mildew/dryrot? The wood behind the flange is actually a corner beam, and it looks like it's been wet. It's not soft or punky, but before I close up the wall, I'm wondering if there is any chem I could add to kill any kind of potential rot.
Slip a piece of lead flashing behind the gap and wrap it around the corner. Try to wedge in a shim of some sort behind the flashing to get it tight to the tub. Then use an epoxy like pc-7 or jb weld to bond the lead to the tub. Lead is good because it is very malleable and flexible.
Hey - that's cool - might be the best solution.
Forrest
Thanks, I'm honored. Praise from one of the Lords of BT!
Lead flashing. I think we have a winner. Thanks. I'll give this a go.
"...I'm wondering if there is any chem I could add to kill any kind of potential rot."Copper naphthenate is good against rot; comes in a penetrating oil base. Here in SoCal it is sold as Termin-8 and is available in pint or quart cans or aerosol can that sprays a thin, solid stream. If you brush it, use a cheap brush that you can just throw away.BruceT
Thanks on the Termin-8. Any idea where to get it? (Big Box store, local hardware/lumber yard, boat yard, etc.)
Available around here at paint stores, HD, Lowes, Ace Hardware...You did not fill in any profile info, so I can't tell where you live.
BruceT
There is also the Boracare line of products. Not toxic - borates that prevent mold growth.Timbor is a dowel that you drill a 3/8" hole for and insert. Anytime water moves through the wood, it carries the borax with it into the wood.
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For what it's worth --I applied a boric acid product to the wood to help prevent any future fungal growth. For the rotted flange, I used a putty epoxy as a base, which was easy to form up, then covered it with a marine epoxy that's water proof, but tough as steel, etc. Only time will tell how it holds up.
Sounds good, Now find a friend to shower with and try it out.
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Tubs didn't used to have flanges. Somehow they were (sometimes) watertight.
There's a company that will make a plastic mold of your tub and walls. Perfect for inexpensive repairs of leaky tubs/showers.
Had it done for my momma.
Are you thing about system like Rebath and Tub Liners.From what I have heard they aren't that great.And probably expensive for this kind of application.But I have heard of a caulk on shield for tubs that don't have flanges. Ithink that they are used for some top mount tubs, but I am not sure where I have heard of these.Maybe this will spark someone else..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
It sounds like the technology I had done for my Momma - about 10 years ago. It's held up like new ever since. She does have a small bubble in the bottom (doesn't bother her) but when I mentioned this here a couple of years ago, it was met with a response from another guy (don't remember) that he did these things for his bosses company. He said that was a common problem that also had a easy fix. But we never followed up cause it doesn't bug her.
You make your own flanges, right? Do it in place?
Be a gel coat baby
Must be, and that is all.
True love can make a blade of grass
Stand up straight and tall.
In harmony with the cosmic sea,
True love needs no company,
It can cure the soul, it can make it whole,
If dogs run free.
I have made my own flanges - I made some strips about 1" wide and 30-72" long from three layers of Home Depot fiberglass on a piece of waxed paper on the table, then after they were set up I glassed them to the edges, but from the back side.
Then brush painted the front side with Home Depot gelcoat for water-proofing.
Forrest
If you have a boat supply or marine shop around, go there.
grind the rust away so you have clear clean metal to adhere to.
Then get a boat repair epoxy kit and build up the new corner.
For that rotted wood, drill some 3/16" holes into it and fill them with Git-rot or a competing rot repair epoxy.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
BTW, the wood rot repair must be done to dry wood. I mention that because of what I say next.
If you are grinding metal around punk dry wood, you want a spark shield, a bucket of water and a fire extinguisher handy - and don't leave the house for a couple hours.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Sounds like the voice of experience.
goes back to my day with the torch-down Modified...
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!