Some trim paintig and brush questions
Just put new trim in all around our house and now it’s time to paint. I remember myself being a decent amateur painter at one time, but after only two door jambs I now know that is not true.
I am painting with latex paint formulated for trim, shiny “great brushability”,etc. and using an assortment of Purdy brushes. The trim is new MDF that I’m priming with 1-2-3.
I am curious about the order in which to paint a typical door jamb, do I start from the door stop and work out, do I cut in the edge of the legs and work in? Start from the top and work down? What is the preffered order. Also it’s all mitered, so how do I change directions and still get a clean diagonal at the corners.
Last question is this: from time-to-time my brush, which I take care to clean well, comb out, and generally speak to in a soothing voice, will develop what I like to call “cow-hoof” disease. It will,after some painting, split its bristles into two or three distinct groups, causing me to want to throw it across the room.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
kh
Replies
"I am painting with latex paint formulated for trim, shiny "great brushability",etc..."
I would start at bottom, work up, across and back down the other side in order to maintain a wet edge as you go.
IMO, it should be against the law to use "Latex paint" and "great brushability" in the same sentence. You don't say where you are working, but generally the stricter the VOC rules in your area, the worse the finish appearance and durability will be.
Work fast so you don't lose your wet edge, use a 2 1/2" brush so you can carry enough paint in each brushload to lay the stuff on wet so as to minimize marks from trying to feather into the previous section.
You can help by dosing latex paint with Floetrol to keep the film open longer and improve flow, but the only way to get a really smooth finish is by spraying or by using oil base paint.
If the house is unoccupied, maybe you can spray the trim. You can get a decent little HVLP setup for $99 at Rockler or Woodcraft - not production quality but not $700 either.
To eliminate the "cow hoof" deal, either save the Purdy brush wrapper and put the brush back in every night or wrap your brush in Kraft paper(paper sack material).
Roll the brush in the paper which keeps the bristles together. Fold the end up and rubber band. Hope that made sense.
Latex, brush, sheen, yah you're not gonna be too happy with that.
To add to what you've gotten: Any kind of brush work it is usually good to think in terms of top down and inside to out. A door does kind of muss that up a bit, because you do want to maintain the wet edge, but the door frame itself is pretty narrow so you could just do a big upside down U shape and have it licked.
Now I have no idea what your brush technique may be but seeing as you're a self proclaimed novice, speed up. If you're talking nice to the door jamb and fussing over every little detail you're actually working against yourself. Heavy, fast, just enough of a feather at the end to lighten the marks, then quit touching it. Thats your best chance for the paint to level itself out and look reasonable. One door jamb, with casing, shoot for 5 minutes.
Rather than clean the brush every night, get it dirty, clean it, etc, I keep a bucket of water nearby with a couple cups of pinesol in it. Drop the brush in when I go to lunch, when I grab a roller, when I leave for the day, whatever. Just shake it out and its soft, supple, and clean. The pine sol wont let the latex get gummy on you.
Real trucks dont have sparkplugs
I'm surprised no one mentioned you should be using a sash brush,it has a tapered end as opposed to a square end, makes it easier to get into corners and just generally control the brush. Also, are you using a china bristle or synthetic/poly? China bristle is for oil only and will swell and become difficult to control if used in latex. Try and NOT get the paint any higher than 1/2 way up the bristles, but DO get as much paint loaded on the brush as you can, without dripping all over everything of course! Floetroll is great, also try brush saver, a cream you put on the brush after cleaning which preserves the bristles and keeps them pliable and helps release excess paint from within the brush after a days painting I(from the makers of Floetrol-- Flood and CO. I believe). Keep the brush moving !!!!don't go back over like you do with oil, cover w/paint smooth the area, on to the next!! Good luck!
Geoff
I'm not a professional painter but there is a key point that I think is missing from your post and the replies so far and that is preparation. The results of sanding, then priming, then sanding, then painting, then sanding, then topcoat is going to be much different than priming and then painting. I'm working through a large project now painting trim with latex and I'm very happy with the results but it's a long process.
Again, I'm no pro, but this is what I'm doing. I start with pre-primed FJ pine. I putty anything that needs it and then sand up to 220 grit. I paint one coat and once it dries I do a light sanding with 400 grit. Then I topcoat. I don't know if this is the best order of things but the results are much better than the piece I did with just painting over the primed piece.
Good luck.
If you're talking cowhoof while painting it's probably time to clean the brush. I clean 3-4 times a day. If it's hot it's even more often. Floetrol it the greatest. Be careful, it will run easier.
I do doors jams from the top down 1 jam at a time. Top, I start at the left work to with in 2" of the right and finish to the left. That way the miter lines look correct.
Headstrong, I'll take on anyone!
Thanks to everyone for the advice. Just to clarify some of the process. I primed the MDF , whole jamb, because there were some sanded spots on it, the sanded with 220, vaccuumed and wiped down with damp rag. So far the advice tht has blown my mind the most is the target of 5 minutes/door jamb. I am going to have to quadruple my speed, maybe more. But I guess that speed would combat the issue of keeping a wet edge. I am fixing to pick up the brush and give it hell.Thanks,KH
Just curious, what is the temperature and relative humidity in the areas you are painting? Both can cause latex paint to dry faster that usual. You could try lowering temp and using a humidifier.
Definitely use Flotrol! It's a must have for your finish coats. Can't say I've ever considered it for primer since I usually thin primer so it's pretty smooth once on. If you need the stain hiding properties it probably needs to have two thinned coats or one full strength.
As for your brushes, you're probably trying to use them too long between cleanings and the paint that has worked up in the bristles is causing the brush to clump up, especially if you aren't using Flotrol.
I like to have at least two 5-gal buckets partially full of clean water handy while brush painting. If my brush is acting up or too much paint has worked up the bristles I'll toss the brush in the first bucket and paint with another brush. During a break simply swish the brush around to clean the paint off, spin it out, rinse in the second cleaner water, spin it out, and you're ready to go.
Keep talking sweet to those brushes! :-)
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Before I even begin to paint the first thing I do especially with a new brush is to get it wet spin it in my hands and looking for bristles that dont lay flat. I slo pull on the bristles to get rid of the loose ones.
Some times and I would in your case trim the bristles to a knife edge and make sure no bristles will come of after cutting them.
When I primer I wait for it to dry then sand it lightly smooth refill all the nail holes/imperfections I see. Then I'll prime it again with a mixture of the primer and 10% paint. Check for imperfections again refill/ sand/ clean them paint it with my final coat.
Oh yea be sure to tape off what you dont want paint on. I know this shouldnt need to be said..But you'd be surprize sometimes. :>)
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