First of all, let me say this: Home Depot Sucks.
I had special ordered Owens Corning “Quiet” insulation for my interior walls (exterior and attic are closed cell poly) from HD. Ten days later (when the product was due in, they inform me that they haven’t placed the order). I told them to cancel…
So before I order this product (which isn’t cheap) from another company, I thought I’d ask the pros for advice on some sound-deadening products that I can put on the interior walls (between the stud basy and ceiling joists) to help reduce/isolate sound…Perhaps there is something I hadn’t thought of….
Thanks.
Replies
Sorry that your order fell through, but it is giving you an opportunity to explore other options.
I looked into the STC rating for the Quiet Zone Acoustic Batts, the STC rating is 39. I looked to see if they stated the rating on the Owens' site for the Thermal Batt Insulation (which I think would be cheaper). It doesn't give the rating. I was hoping that it would be a good comparison to make. Maybe someone hear knows the rating?
Cler
While I am typing...I am on hold with OC and I've asked the question: What is the acoustic difference between the more expensive "QuietZone" batts and regular fiberglass insultation???
Right now, no one seems to be able to answer...The lady at OC said the difference between the regular insulation and QZ is that regular insulation is rated for R-value and the QZ product is rated for Sound...but that didn't answer the question--which is WHAT IS THE ACUOSTIC DIFFERENCE BETWEEN QZ AND REGULAR FIBER GLASS INSULATION...NO ONE KNOWS.
Bottom line: SAVE YOUR MONEY....
I asked the customer service person at Owens Corning to transfer me to an engineer at their headquarters since she didn't have the information. She did so....
I asked the engineer what is the aqoustical differences between the OC "QuietZone" and regular fiberglass insulation: The answer: there isn't a difference...it is the same material and the same density.
...So the followup question: Then why is it more expensive? The answer: to help cover marketing and research costs.
...So the next follow up question: Why would you use QZ then? The answer: I wouldn't. I would use regular fiberglass....So that is what I'm going to do.
"Bottom line: SAVE YOUR MONEY...."
There are even cheaper ways to get better results. Have you heard of RC-1 sound deadening channels. I get a 12' length for $2.40. They add 5/8" thickness to your walls but if your not working with door jambs that's no problem, and little if you are.You install these perpindicular to the studs and hang the rock off it.
I found this works better than insulation. Lots of the sound is transfered thru the studs and this reduces that transfer. They also have RC-101, but this is not cheap.
it is the same material and the same density
In days of old, when I was taught such things, a sound-deadening-batt only needed to be 1 1/2" or 2" thick, and was supposed to 'hover' in the middle of a stud bay (friction fit between).
The in-the-field practice is to just use the cheapest 3 1/2" batts and friction them between the studs and call it even.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
thanks for the info about being same density ;) They don't like putting that information out there, I'm sure.
I usually just spec unfaced batt insulation for sound control, and let the homeowners use what they desire, if any.
Thanks for the inside scoop. The best sound insulation is mineral wool insulation.... but VERY costly, usually only see it in commercial areas where it is necessary with audio and acoustics.
Cler
STC is kind of important, but don't forget the NRC(Noise Reduction Coefficient).
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Go to the search mode and ask for thread #52377.1......last message.
........Iron Helix