Replies

1. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Nov 10, 2008 01:55am | #1

   Well good for you!

   Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
   Also a CRX fanatic!

   Tu stultus es

2. 
   Piffin | Nov 10, 2008 03:14am | #2

   How soundproof do you want it? What kind of sound are you buffering against? Are you only removing material from one side of the wall? Do you have opportunity to make the wall thicker to add sound proofing materials?

   Is there room to stuff a CPX Paul in the wall, LOL

    

    

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   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
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1. 
   captbill | Nov 10, 2008 03:23am | #3

   Removeing from one side. the other is a bath that we want keep the shower and usual noises down. I can thicken the wall if needed. A few years back I had a simular wall that you could talk through, I had three inches of fiberglass inbetween which didn't help any. In asking around was told to put another layer of drywall which helped a lot, made it passable. That would work in this case but I was wondering if theres a better way

1. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Nov 10, 2008 04:20am | #4

   I recently redid my bathroom.  I filled the stud bays with a recycled denim insulation that is much denser than fiberglass - it's almost like foam rubber.  I used Resilient Steel Hat Channel across the studs.  Between the connections I used some extra Ice & water shield to help dampen vibrations.  I then applied a layer of OSB, covered it with I&WS, then a layer of drywall.  I can't hear a peap pass from one wall to the other now!Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!

   Tu stultus es

1. 
   captbill | Nov 10, 2008 04:36am | #5

   I am not fimilure with any of these products, can you enlighten me?

1. 
   BarryE | Nov 10, 2008 05:00am | #7

   Technically Paul is talking about 2 different productsThere is RC1 and RC2 (resilient channel)and hat channel which there are sound clips forcheck out this page:http://www.cemcosteel.com/ca-40.aspxor this:http://www.extremesoundproofing.com/Products/Resilient_channel_is_one_of_th/resilient_channel_is_one_of_th.htmPiffin also has a good method right above. the big things are mass and decoupling

   Barry E-Remodeler

    

2. 
   captbill | Nov 10, 2008 06:05am | #8

   Thanks guys, I will go with Piffin. His approch sounds better than what I done before.

3. 
   junkhound | Nov 10, 2008 02:43pm | #9

   can thicken the wall if needed

   DO IT.

   Throw in a line of studs offset 1" on the sole plate, drywall that.  Now you do not have direct transmission thru the studs.  Use 5/8 FC drywall.

   Throw any of the items mentioned in previous threads in the cavities - own preference is scrap foam (carpet padding, etc.  from other jobs.

4. 
   captbill | Nov 10, 2008 06:27pm | #10

   Thanks a lot junkhound, will probly do the stud thing and foam but use half inch drywall as have already bought

5. 
   BillBrennen | Nov 10, 2008 09:56pm | #11

   Use the half-inch DW if you have it, but a double layer is still very good. Double layer with Green Glue between layers will outperform 4 layers with no damping added. Like Piffin said, you want mass and isolation, to which I would add damping.Bill

6. 
   captbill | Nov 11, 2008 04:56am | #12

   would you offset the studs? and on the green glue, glue the sheets togather?

7. 
   john7g | Nov 11, 2008 05:43am | #13

   Whenever you can offset the studs and reducing sound transmission is the goal, offset them.  By doing so you break the path via solid material for the sound to travel.  Sound travels well through a solid and poorly through air. 

8. 
   captbill | Nov 11, 2008 05:58am | #14

   Thanks very much

9. 
   bayendeavors | Nov 14, 2008 07:00am | #15

   If you havent already done it you can check out a product called quietrock. Its fairly expensive but it installs easy, just like sheetrock, and the sound proofing is superior; I used it on a customers basement theater room. I think it was about 45 a sheet for 4x8.

10. 
    captbill | Nov 14, 2008 08:23am | #16

    Thanks for the info. I am in the middle of it now but not too far to change directions

11. 
    BillBrennen | Nov 15, 2008 11:28am | #17

    Yes, offset studs are great if you can do them. Green Glue will help a lot whether the framing is decoupled or not, because it actually absorbs the energy striking the loud side.The Green Glue is sandwiched between 2 or more layers of drywall, yielding a result similar to the Quietrock. Both use constrained layer damping, the difference is that the GG is field applied and the QR is factory assembled. The Quietrock, by the way, comes in a number of levels which vary a lot in weight, thickness, effectiveness, and cost.I've been out of town.Bill

12. 
    captbill | Nov 16, 2008 04:48am | #18

    Thanks a Lot, all info is great./

2. 
   Piffin | Nov 10, 2008 04:49am | #6

   You want isolation and mass and absorption, and you probably want it economically.To isolate - stop vibrations from traveling through solids like studs, you want to run strapping perpendicular to the studs. You can buffer it even more by placing softer material between strapping and stud at the joint. He used the ice and water membrane. You could use scraps of homasote or some rubber or scraps of felt carpet pad....The FG batts made for insulation don't do much but they can absorb some sounds. You could also fit in foam insulation panels instead. Glue them to the opposite wall backside.Then for mass, use a doubled layer of sheetrock on the side you are covering back up again. Tape both layers, and caulk seams like at the floor. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!