Replies

1. 
   seeyou | Mar 22, 2008 05:31pm | #1

   Do you put a rib in the middle,

   No.

   rip the sheets in half prior to forming?

   Not 2' stock. Using 24" stock, the seams wind up on 20.75" centers.

   Sometimes I use 36" sheets and rip them for smaller roofs which produces seams on 14.75" centers. Not an option with with CCSS since it's only available in 24" widths currently.

   Here's a pic of a roof about the size of yours using 24" stock:

   View Image

   http://grantlogan.net/

    

   But you all knew that.  I detailed it extensively in my blog.

1. 
   dockelly | Mar 22, 2008 05:49pm | #2

   looks great! was the new copper a repair, the part under the ladders, or does the color change quickly? My copper termite shield under sill plate went from shiny to dull real quick.

   Edited 3/22/2008 11:10 am ET by dockelly

1. 
   seeyou | Mar 22, 2008 08:24pm | #3

   was the new copper a repair, the part under the ladders, or does the color change quickly?

   As often happens on new construction or major remodels, several trades were in each other's way. When we started, the mason's were still building the chimney and the cornice wasn't complete. So we started in the middle and went as far left as we could so as to leave the masons room to work. On the right, the rake fascia wasn't on, so we couldn't install the last row. When everyone else finished we came back and finished it off. I think several months had passed.

   We did a large church roof once and you could see what was done on Mon, Tues, Wed, etc. There was usually some dew at night and that would turn it enough to differentiate it from the previous days work.http://grantlogan.net/

    

   But you all knew that.  I detailed it extensively in my blog.

1. 
   dockelly | Mar 22, 2008 09:19pm | #4

   I just looked at 1000 sq ft of 8 inch wide T&G V groove white pine, some boards up to 16 ft long. Saw it on Craigs list. I was thinking of using about 1/3 inside the house on the floor. Guy mentioned he used some for the ceiling and it got me thinking. If I were to use it as first layer in sheathing on the porch roof, followed by 5/8 plywood I have left over from the forms for the poured foundation, bringing total thickness to 11/8" thickness, would that work for your fasteners of the metal roofing? I could even double the plywood for an additional 5/8 bringing total to 2". I'd want it thick enough so you look up and see the T&G pine without any screws or nails coming through.

   Edited 3/22/2008 2:31 pm ET by dockelly

1. 
   dockelly | Mar 22, 2008 09:58pm | #5

   I was editing my post and not sure you saw this new post, it showed you had read it prior to my edit. This is a bump of sorts.

2. 
   seeyou | Mar 22, 2008 10:53pm | #6

   The nails are 1 1/4" and they don't sink any (the metal they're being driven into holds them a little proud. So, theoretically they shouldn't blow thru if the sheathing is 1 1/4".http://grantlogan.net/

    

   But you all knew that.  I detailed it extensively in my blog.

3. 
   dockelly | Mar 23, 2008 01:45am | #7

   looks like it would work then.  I'll talk with you more about the prep once I'm closer to the install date.

    

   Thanks

   Kevin

4. 
   dockelly | May 11, 2009 08:02pm | #8

   Hey Grant,Looking through old messages and not sure if you and I discussed this. 2x6 roofdecking, no plywood on top. Will the joints between boards telegraph through the material, end up with horizontal lines in the metal?Hope you understand what I'm trying to ask.ThanksKevin

5. 
   seeyou | May 11, 2009 10:16pm | #9

   2x6 roofdecking, no plywood on top. Will the joints between boards telegraph through the material, end up with horizontal lines in the metal?

   As long as there's only a small gap (1/4" - 1/2") between each board, there shouldn't be a problem. http://www.quittintime.com/      View Image