Splicing copper pipe: 1/2″ extra needed
I am remodeling my bathroom and after installing the cement backer board around my new tub, I found that despite very careful measuring the copper faucet pipe with threaded male end is about 1/2″ too short for my new faucet (i.e., it does not extend far enough from the finished wall to engage the threads in the faucet). As I understand it, my options to extend the pipe an extra 1/2″ are:
1. Cut the existing pipe in half. Cut a new pipe with threaded end 1/2″ longer than the piece removed. Solder the new pipe to the remaining half extruding from the wall using a copper coupling?
2. Same as above but using a copper PEX coupler to avoid the soldering (which might weaken the soldered elbow joint behind the cement board?).
3. Find a double threaded copper male end to screw onto and extend the existing one (except I’ve never seen a 1/2″ copper double threaded male end sold at local hardware stores).
Which if any of these methods are preferred? If option 1 is preferred, should I use a coupling with a stop in the middle or one with no stop. Will soldering the coupling only 4″ away from an existing elbow joint potentially weaken that joint? I don’t want to rip out the cement board and start over because it’s already screwed and taped in place.
Thanks,
Lyptus
Replies
If it's got a threaded end then I'd guess that it's a brass nipple, and there are threads at the other end too. In which case you unscrew it and screw in a longer one.
The existing male nipple is copper and is soldered to the 1/2" copper pipe.- Lyptus
I'd shoot the guy who did that.Do you have access to the back side?
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
That guy was me. I had to replace the original plumbing and the original had a L-shaped copper pipe extending down from the mixing valve to the faucet. I needed a longer one to accommodate my new faucet so I soldered one together. However despite my attempts at being very precise, the cement board does not sit flush with the studs because it overlaps the lip on the tub thereby costing me 1/2" of distance which I did not account for. I admit I screwed up but shooting me seems a bit extreme.
look here. 1/2 x 1/2 adapter towards bottom of page
http://fittingsandnipples.com/Parts3.php?pn=Pipe%20Fittings%20(Yellow%20Brass)&ci=Pipe%20Fittings
Edited 5/13/2009 3:10 pm by migraine
Are you suggesting the 1/2" x 1/2" brass adapter? It looks like that might work because I need a fitting with a 1/2" ID female end and 1/2" OD male end. Any problem mixing copper and brass?
Not that i've ever been told.
They make brass fitting that you can solder copper to.
OK, we'll just waterboard you.
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
Can you just free up the ell so the pipe can shift forward a bit?
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
No, there is no flexibility in the pipe connections. Isn't water-boarding torture? Maybe I'll take the bullet after all.
Thank you all for your suggestions. I've decided to first look for a brass adapter that will enable a simple screw-on fix. If I can't find one that will work, I'll choose option 1 with a wet rag.Thanks again,
Lyptus
You will probably have to go to a real plumbing supply house to find tht adapter. So you don't sound foolish in that supply house , in plumber lingo, that is called a ½" IPS brass extention coupling.
Ya need the right tools.
Chuck up a 1-1/8" long piece of 1" brass hex bar in your lathe, Drill 3/8 dia hole, tap one end 1/2 npt.
Thread the other end for male 1/2 NPT.
Or.
Tap the inside of the short /12 male for a piece of 1/4" nipple, 1/4 female to 1/2 male bushing onto 1/4 nipple, ready to go.
You do at least have some npt taps??
Edited 5/14/2009 4:06 am ET by junkhound
Why does the cementboard overlap the tub lip? How does your tile look at the tub?
I usually run the cementboard to the lip, not over it. No complaints.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
I was just following the tub installation directions. The cement board sits about 1/16" above the tub but overlaps the 1" lip. I haven't installed the tile yet but I'll leave a small gap between the tile and the tub to allow for minor movement/expansion. - Lyptus
If the tile isn't even installed yet, get the pipe cut now, and solder on the coupling and a length of pipe (longer than you need). Like I said in a previous post, put a wet rag near the 90 degree elbow. Don't solder on your male adapter until after the tile is installed. At that time, make a final measurement, cut the pipe to the length you need, and solder the male adapter on. Good luck.
"Preach the Gospel at all times; if necessary, use words." - St. Francis of Assisi
No, I didn't vote for him; but he IS my president. I pray for the his safety, and the safety of his family every day. And I pray that he makes wise decisions.
If you havent installed the tile yet, I dont understand what you're asking here. Just unscrew the board and repair your plumbing.
IMO you need to bring that cement board above the tub lip, otherwise your gonna have a hard time setting a nice first run of tile.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
Edited 5/14/2009 7:50 pm ET by MSA1
He might have shimmed that entire wall out beyond the lip.
Weve done that too. Its usually easier to just keep the board above the lip though.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
Can't you just go buy a nipple that is 1/2" longer than the one you have?
So, it this 1/2" copper tubing with a male threaded fitting soldered on? Sounds like it if it's soldered at the elbow.
I'd say best bet is cut it and resolder with a coupling (with the internal stop), but you better check and make sure the adapter (1/2" tubing to 1/2" male IPT) will fit in the new tub spout. A lot of newer spouts are designed to slip over 1/2" copper tubing with an O ring for the seal. Some even slip over a special pipe that threads into a 1/2" female fitting- (don't ask me how I know this).
Generally, I think it's a better idea to have a female threaded fiting at the tub elbow, gives you full flexibility to use any spout you want. You might want to just unscrew the one board covering the spout fitting and do it right. IMHO, you'll be glad you did.
BIll
"1. Cut the existing pipe in half. Cut a new pipe with threaded end 1/2" longer than the piece removed. Solder the new pipe to the remaining half extruding from the wall using a copper coupling?"
Do option # 1 that you listed. It's simple, and a perfect fix. If you are concerned about the soldered elbow behind the wall, just place a wet rag on the pipe near that area. That will keep it from heating excessively. Good luck!
"Preach the Gospel at all times; if necessary, use words." - St. Francis of Assisi
No, I didn't vote for him; but he IS my president. I pray for the his safety, and the safety of his family every day. And I pray that he makes wise decisions.
I may be missing something obvious here but why not simply solder a threaded end onto a longer piece of pipe?
I refuse to accept that there are limitations to what we can accomplish. Pete Draganic
Take life as a test and shoot for a better score each day. Matt Garcia
That is option 1: soldering a longer pipe onto a threaded end and then soldering that to the existing pipe using a coupling.
It sounds like you're trying to find a way to screw on a tub spout that has female threads inside. You might try looking for a different tub spout that has the female connection further inside so that you could use a threaded brass coupling and a short brass nipple to extend the copper stub-out you now have.
Or, if your copper stub-out is already long, you could buy a tub spout that slides onto bare copper pipe. You would just cut off the existing copper male adapter; the slide-on tub spout has O-rings to seal and a metal gripper that you tighten with a set screw.
Go to your local big box.
Buy a "universal" tub spout with or without diverter (shower pull thingie).
The universal spout has the parts for a slip fit copper pipe connection.
Take the parts from the universal kit and attach them to your tub spout. Note- you may need to make a hole in the bottom to get access to the screw on the slip fit part.
Cut off the male adapter on your copper pipe.
Install your modified spout.
If your spout is plain old chrome and nothing special, just use the universal spout as is.
You can also special order spouts in different finishes/styles with a slip fit connection.
A third option is to call rental shops for a pipe stretcher.
Edited 5/14/2009 10:42 am ET by danski0224
> A third option is to call rental shops for a pipe stretcher.Do they keep those right next to the smoke shifters?
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
I think so.
The smoke shifters are always out when I need one.
The board stretchers are two aisles over.
Here's what you should have used:
View Image
You run the copper from the valve into that, then you can thread any length nipple into it after the tile is up. (While tiling install a long iron nipple to keep you from accidentally tiling over the hole.)