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Split or solid jambs best?

Anchorbeam | Posted in Construction Techniques on October 29, 2003 09:49am

Got a lotta doors to hang and have gotten varying opinions on split vs. solid jambs.  I’m using solid core masonite doors that are fairly heavy, and one camp says solid jambs will have better integrity.  Other camp says a good long screw in each hinge will be enough to cope with the door mass.  Looking at split jambs, they do look rather, um, delicate.  My finish carpenter says he hasn’t hung any solid jamb doors in a long time, but says he can deal with either.  He suggests ordering the doors without the stop if I go the solid jamb route in case door is warped or wall is out of whack.  I plan on living in this house forever. Opinions?

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  1. User avater
    BossHog | Oct 29, 2003 09:59pm | #1

    I'm far from an expert on doors, but split jamb doors always seemed cheap to me.

    I like to be able to shim and tweak the doors from both sides, then apply the casing later.

    Life may have no meaning. Or even worse, it may have a meaning of which I disapprove. [Ashleigh Brilliant]

  2. OneofmanyBobs | Oct 29, 2003 10:27pm | #2

    I like the solid jambs better.  Easier for me to hang, more possible adjustment if the walls are out, stronger.  It does take longer to do the trim.  The split ones tend to fall apart once you pull enough of the shipping nails to start hanging them.

  3. Snort | Oct 30, 2003 01:41am | #3

    I've hung solid cores both ways. My own house has split jambs, not because it was cheap, but because that's the way my supplier could get them when I needed them.

    Some flat jambs have a moulded stop, some have a removeable/moveable stop. It's a little harder to get a door to close tightly with a moulded stop if the walls on either side of the opening don't plane, the applied stop gives a little tweakage. The other big bonus is if the doors are pre-hung hinge bound. Kind of a pain to deal with with a fixed stop

    I find it easier and more effective to shim a flat jambed door because it has no casing. I can pass the shims through from both sides and gain some subtle wackerage, if I need it. Split jambs are best hung with casing applied so shimming can can only done from one way.

    If you have a trim guy that wants split jambs, I'd play to his strengths. Thing is, don't get the cheapest doors you can find. Your trim guy is going to lose time on them, and you probably know that time is $$$. Has a tendency to lessen quality in other areas on down the line.

    You're RG from Bahama, right? If not, it's still what I'd do.

    If you are RG, after talking to you, I found a place in Mebane that makes doors, email or call me. I liked your digs and would like to see your doors last!

    EliphIno!

  4. TLJ | Oct 30, 2003 01:49am | #4

    For me, depends on the casing choice. If I'm going with the style of casing that can come factory applied, I'll use split jambs. Even with top of the line products, installation techniques can make or break the product. Split jambs speed up installation considerably and I have no trouble adjusting the jambs all directions to make the door hit the stops evenly. Shim behind each hinge and near the bottom of each jamb. Shim at the strike and at least three other locations on the strike jamb. If the doors are solid, run long screws through the innermost hinge holes.

  5. Ronbaby | Oct 30, 2003 03:45am | #5

    I prefer split jamb just because they are easier to hang and come pre cased. Id guess solid jambs might be stronger but its only a door. Just add a screw through the jamb into the jack.

    1. Piffin | Oct 30, 2003 05:33am | #7

      I'll agree that a strong screw in a well shimmed jamb of any breed will handle the door..

      Excellence is its own reward!

  6. Piffin | Oct 30, 2003 05:30am | #6

    My first thought is to wonder if you can get a masonite door to warp? I don't have any experience with them so I don't know but it would seem not likely.

    And a solid jamb doesnot have removeable stops around here. If i order solid jambs, the door fits into a rabbet in the jamb which is milled from solid stock. Sometimes I see finger jointed with separate stops applied.

    split jambs work pretty well -

    for kindling, IMO

    .

    Excellence is its own reward!

  7. User avater
    hammer1 | Oct 30, 2003 05:53am | #8

    A true solid jamb is 1 1/4" thick with a rebate plowed the length to receive the door. When using this type of jamb one has to make changes to the height of the jambs so that inswing and outswing doors have the same casing height. In some cases you may have to trim doors. So in the case of a full rebated jamb there can be quite a bit more work not including casing. This type of jamb is strong.

    Many of todays so called solid jambs are only 3/4" thick with a small strike added in the middle. On these both sides of the jamb are the same height. They are not much stronger than split jambs. The only reason to use split jambs is because they come already cased. There is a major difference between hanging splits and solids if you only count the time and material for casing. Don't forget to seal tops and bottoms of your doors when finishing. Most warantees require this.

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