*
I need to consider several options in splitting up an electric service to a house.
Can a 200-amp service be split up to two meters ?
If I need three meters, would it be better to just run three lines to separate meters ?
Thanks for your help,
Alan
This time-tested installation method for flangeless windows ensures smooth operation and provides air, water, and vapor control.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
Alan,
Are you trying to create separate bills, say for different rental units? Or like me, thinking of running service to your shop and having it's own meter?
I would think that you'd want at least 200 amp service for all of the meters, otherwise why bother?
*This would be for rental units.We bought a house next door that has two meters but the second one is splitting off the first meter and the whole house is on only 100 amps.Running three separate service, all 200-amps, may turn out to be the easiest. The third one would be for carving out an area for me to occupy as an office and also running power to the garage, which will not be part of the rental.Alan
*Unless the house is so large that you need a total of 600 amp service why do it. You can have it upgraded to 200 amp an have an electrician install sub meters. You would get 1 bill from the single meter supplied by the electric co and bill the tenents yourself from the sub meters.Otherwise what happens if a unit is empty for a month. If they have seperate heat are you going to have the service billed to you in the intrem. Sounds like a pain and alot of hook up fees.My electric suppliers charges $84.00 a year just for the priviledge of hooking up to them.
*Sub-meters.....this is probably what I need.Although 200-amp service may not be adequate.There are three kitchens, all with electric ovens.There is a single 80-gallon electric water heater but I may install a water heater for each unit.Would the line off the meter feed into some sort of splitter so multiple branches can feed sub meters ?I should just go to the local supply house.Thanks,Alan
*I'm no electrican but I had this done years ago. I think it went to a main box containing 3 breakers. Each breaker feeds though a meter to a sub-panel.Get an electrican!
*Thanks, Geoff -Yes, a main disconnect box with breakers for feeding sub panels.Need to check with the town to see if this would be allowed.I understand you suggesting an electrician and I appreciate that.Never ran into this situation before.Thanks,Alan
*Alan, How you split the service would also depend on how the billing is set up. A teneant that doesn't pay you can't be cut off in most places. A tenant that doesn't pay the utility company will eventually get cut off.Just a thought.Dave
*Excellent point, Dave.I would rather the tenant deal with the power company to turn the power on or off."Sub" billing may be a bit of a headache.Monthly minimum for a meter is $7 and I don't mind paying that when the service is cut off.We have a very friendly and helpful power company for our town.I'll have one of the guys come over.Alan
*What you're trying to do usually requires both a permit- and a licensed electrical contractor. But, for the sake of explaination...First of all, you DON'T have "200 amp service." What you have is service for one residence, with a 200-amp rated disconnect. If you want to have three residences, the utility might want to replace their wires with larger ones, etc.What is typically done is that the power company lines enter a "gutter," or long junction box, that has splices in it to feed each of the separate meters. Each residence is required to have a disconnect rated for at least 100 amps- what you're probably calling "100 amp service." Yes, you can get 3-100's out of 1-200, because your service demand is calculated with a pen and paper, rather than by adding up breakers or measuring specific appliances. See where an electricians' training comes in handy?At each meter will be a disconnect serving that section only; this can be either a stand-alone disconnect, or a combination panel/disconnect/meter socket. Apart from the NEC, the local utility has their requirements. In general, everything up to the meter is governed by the utility.Even though the 'box stores' sell panels, that doesn't mean anyone could -or should- do this job themselves!
*Thanks, John, for your thorough reply.The town inspection department is familiar with me and have inspected my work before, so although I am not in the trade, I know just enough to get myself in trouble - just kidding.The power company is also familiar with me and on friendly terms and nothing fishy would be going on without a permit with the town and besides, the power company will not do the work without seeing a town permit.I posted this question because I have a rough idea on different configurations and have been observing different ways services are split up at houses and buildings in our area. Just trying to go with the most sensible (and code compliant) route for my situation without overdoing it.Alan
*John -It's me again -I have seen the gutter setup you mention, which may be the best route for me. As a bonus, the power company usually provides the meter bases at no charge.Main disconnect after each meter.Have to see how far they can be mounted away from the meter base.Getting a little crowded on that wall.Maybe they'll let me mount it where it enters the house.Thanks again,Alan
*Alan ---If you are on such good terms with the inspections depsrtment and the power company, why would you ask us?As John said the power company is responsible for all the work up to the meters. You do what they say not what we say.After the meter, hire a professional to get you to the breaker boxes.
*Thanks for the reply, George -I probably shouldn't have started this thread.Actually, the utility guy is coming by this afternoon.
*Alan,As you probably already know by now, the utility company is not responsible for everything up to the meter socket.If your service is overhead they are responsible for wire to the weather head to be made up to your wiring from the weatherhaed to the meter. If underground they will provide wire from the transformer to the meter, with a limit on the number of feet free. After you go past the allocated footage, you pay for the additional wire. A wiring trough or duct is considered a termination point for thier wires in most instances. All this is a general statement so your specific local utility may vary. I work for a utility company. and this is pretty standard fair in our area.Glad you posted the question though. I got some usfull information out of it. Tell us what they recomended and what the regulation are in your area.Dave
*Hi, Dave -Our utility company is very helpful, especially when an aerial service goes underground along with an upgrade.Last time I was able to perform all the work and not incur any charges.For multiple meters, though, there may be some sort of charge.Alan