I have quite a few double hung wood windows that I have been refinishing,(6 lite sashes)
Paint these with a oil base primer is a pain in the butt.
Do you thing I could get one of those HF touch up spray guns and cut the paint enough to spray thew the gun?
I am looking for something with a small pattern for control.
Or should I just stick to the brush???
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Replies
For a small project like this, consider just using aerosol spray cans. But you will need to do a lot of masking and it might be easier to just use a brush.
For the exterior side of the sashes, brushing is probably better. I don't feel like spraying works the primer into the wood as well.
definetly the brush, spray will just sit on top, can or otherwise, you really want the paint to be anchored to the wood, you can also dilute the primer coat for better adhesion.
I am think along that same lines.I might screw around for 3 hours with a gun to do a 1 hr job. I think I will use a additive to the oil primer to help it flow.
I know what you mean about oil being difficult to apply. A lot of people think that the downside to oil is the cleanup, but that part doesn't bother me. The real problem is controlling flow. Oil just doesn't work nearly as easy as latex.
Use a new can of slow-drying oil such as Benjamin Moore pentrating alkyd primer which is a "long oil". It may not say "slow-drying" on the can, but it will not say "fast-drying".
An additive such as Penetrol will help. You can even use a little bit of mineral spirits.
I think Penetrol is for latex/acrylic and Flotrol is oil.I brush with coverstain ( oil) and swear I'll not use much else for oil primer, it's the BOMB.Staying away from spraying multiple sash is better for me, less waste ( air borne) and better "work-in" , but for a one off, or touch up, rattle can is fine.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
Penetrol is oil and Flotrol is latex.I have been using a Valspar ex. oil primer because I plan on top coat with a Valspar latex. Not overly impressed with how it covers, dry time is not bad.But I have to to do 2 coats of primer.What is this cover stain oil primer??I'll give it a try!!
Sorry I mixed them up, I got a cold from hades.Coverstain is Zinnser I believe. It dries nice and fast, EZ to sand, and is just awesome. Ya gotta give it a try. Even IF you are not "covering a stain" it's just such a good primer, it's all I use , unless a customer supplies what they want in it's stead.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
Ahhhh, now that you said Zinnser, I know what you are talking about!Thanks
coverstain would be considered a short oil. fast dry. it's suitable for stains and such, would not trust it for bare wood primer. It's a shortcut..just because it brushes better won't make it the best choice
Barry E-Remodeler
I've had no call backs, thats all I care about. And after playing with A100 and some others that a totally anal customer supplied ( in qts, from SW) I'll stick with it. It soaks in just fine and is primer after all.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
not sure what an anal customer using a100 has to do with the price of beans.if you are covering stains or previously painted wood coverstain is an ok product. Bare wood, especially older wood I prefer something that penetrates and binds much better than fast drys willSo your skating by without callbacks. I can do the same thing with no primer. Doesn't mean I'll take shortcuts. Everyone can draw thier own conclusions..just better to have both sides
Barry E-Remodeler
What I was getting at is he wanted to test EVERY damm prmer SW made, and it was an exercise in futility.
You call it a short cut,I don't.
I agree to disagree.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
good for you
Barry E-Remodeler
Someone dump primer on your wheaties there sport?Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
sport?after looking over the rest of the board, I was gonna ask the same sphere
Me? I just tire of so so painting advice taken as gospel and just like to see the alternatives.
Edited 12/1/2009 2:19 pm by BarryE
Ok w/me.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
It's the opposite, Sphere - Flotrol is for latex. Would not like to count up the number of gallons used so far on the 300-year-old house...
Yeah, I saw that, nasty cold and lacka coffee snagged me agin. And I don't use either product frequently, I still have some from 3 yrs ago.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
Yeah, & I snapped that comment off before I read the rest of the thread, & could have saved my typing for something more important...so consider it as more of a "Hi" than a response...
A "Hi" back at cha. Geeze I hope I don't have to use pene or flo trol in the near future. Or primer, or cereal for that matter..LOLSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
You still got poultry?
Ayup.Fewer eggs now that light is scarce.One of the 3 new chicks ( now about full size) got in the dog pen..Malo didn't kill it, but played with it to mortality.
Named the remaining chicks 'Rez and Dowop"I think its 5 roosters and 13 hens left.
They are a hoot , follow me around when I am outside working.Oh, they are laying in the oddest places too, like under the house! hard to get them eggs.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
That's why fahmuhs build hen coops with nests & a fenced in run...& an electrical socket with a timer and a light...
Hey!!I tried some of that stuff on my Wheaties!!Don't go there, I even hate Wheaties, they get too soggy!!!
try GrapeNuts. won't get soggy. <g>
Barry E-Remodeler
Hate that stuff too!!My grandmother used to make use kids eat that, "it's good for you"!!!That and Screaded wheats!!Gota go, I have window sashes to strip and paint!!!
Planned on adding the Penetrol, after a while with the lid being off the paint tend to thicken.
So possible thinner and Penetrol both.I was sorta looking for the easy way, you know, the self applying paint!!!I have 5 sets of windows in progress now, 25 more to go. I purchased a Makita heat gun, gets the old paint right down to the bare wood, light sanding, priming, regazing, prime the the glaze, ect....I built a rack in the basement near the wood stove to dry the sashes. Just time consuming when working with glazing and oil paints.
Just time consuming when working with glazing and oil paints.
That's the real deal, in a nut shell.
I spent a lot of time maintaining the four light sash in this house; removing loose putty, re-pointing and adding new glazing compound, scaping, sanding, priming and painting. I figure it took four hours per window, at least once every ten years.
Twenty windows=eighty hours or two forty hour weeks, and that's just the exterior. Too much time doing an unpleasant task. So I opted for vinyl replacement windows.
Installed them myself of course. Took about one hour per unit, once I got going. Of course the insulated glass is much more energy efficient. The degree to which they eliminate traffic noise is very impressive. All in all, these http://www.milgard.com replacement windows have been a real blessing to me and this house.
Edited 12/1/2009 9:47 am by Hudson Valley Carpenter
Lucky for me, we have a Histerical District, storms are allowed over existing, but vinyl replacements are not an option for some.
I had to be sure my azek glazing stops would fly, in lieu of putty. They do.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
Lucky for me, we have a Histerical District,
I've got no argument with preservation of historical buildings, particularly if it means that pros like you can make a good living at it.
I'm not in love with vinyl, not by any measure, but its lack of natural feel takes a back seat to the economy of maintenance and other advantages when compared to the time and effort it takes to revive old wood sash, on a typical development home.
Edited 12/1/2009 12:56 pm by Hudson Valley Carpenter
Planned on adding the Penetrol, after a while with the lid being off the paint tend to thicken.
Don't paint out of the can. Maybe you don't since oil-based paints will thicken in the can once there is a little head space, but it's much worse if you paint out of the can. I'm a big fan of these (Handy Paint Pail).
With latex I always use a cut bucket & I have the same handi pail.
I also have the throw away liners. But painting small jobs like a 4-5 sashes, the clean up and waste with oil is a pain in the arce!!!! So I use a older gal bucket and put the lid back on when done, add more to the bucket from a fresh gal. when needed.It would be so much easier if I could just get my wife to do it!!
guess it depends on what you grew up with. On wood I can control oil much easier than latex which can tend to be ropey Although the new generation of water bornes like pro-classic for wood are converting me..especially since they took the good stuff out of oil paints. It does require adjusting my old time painting habits thoughHave never seen the need for additives like penetrol..guess some people need them though.
Barry E-Remodeler
stick with the brush
Stick with the brush and add 10% Penetrol as suggested.
I thinned oil priner with woodlife preserver before, worked OK. I recommend the woodlife sealer straight to seal the wood, then an oil primer over it later.
You don't need a sprayer. Use spray cans, they go a long way on sash.
mike