Maybe this is a dumb question, but it’s my first stair installation (D-I-Y). I have square-top balusters, fitting into a plowed rail and using double-ended baluster screws into the treads.
I understand how to do the layout, but since the balusters can’t be screwed into position with the handrail in place, what is the best procedure for measuring and installing them? Here’s what I was thinking —
1. Install the handrail temporarily (how?)
2. Plumb and mark each of the balusters to length, including the depth of the “plow”
3. Cut all of the balusters to length and install the screws in the bottoms
4. Screw balusters into the treads (after pre-drilling for the screws)
5. use a string to check that the mitered tops of the all of the balusters are in a straight line, and adjust as needed
6. Re-install the handrail permanently
7. Toenail the tops of the balusters into the handrail, checking for plumb
8. Add fillet to the underside of the rail between the balusters.
Is this correct? Also, what’s your preferred method of attaching the handrail to the newel post? Rail bolts?
Replies
I don't know, but I'll answer anyway to push your question up the list so it doesn't get lost.
CVB,
There is an artical in FH, Nov2007, #190 that would get you going.
Harry
Ok,
DOne this a million times in a past life.
First of all, set the posts. Next, set all of the hand rail permenantly. You won't need to pull it back down.
For attaching hand rail I screw thru the other side of the post for rake rail. Drill a 1/2" hole about 1/3 to 1/2 thru the block of the post (make sure you lay it out so that the screw will hit the rail in the righ place). Drill the rest of the way with a 1/4" bit. I prefer a #12 phillips head sheetmetal screw. Sheetmetal screws are threaded all the way to the head and are less likely to break than wood screws. For the top of the run you can screw thru the rail into the post. Same process (it helps if you run the 1/2" but across a sander on both sides. Takes a bit off and makes a more snug fit for the plug).
I tack the rail in place with my finish nailer before screwing it in place.
Now, lay out all of your ballusters on the stair treads. For square tops I use dowels as opposed to dowel screws. you should be able to get the dowel pins from your supplier. They'll need to be glued into the ballusters.
Drill all of the floor holes. Drop the ballusters in the floor holes, plumb up and mark the top. also make a mark on the rail so you know where the uphill edge of the balluster should be when it's in the right place.
I usually mark and measure four at a time. I put the first one in the middle of the run. That's the one I use to set the height of the rail. Since I used dowel pins instead of screws, I glue the bottom with Franklin Tight Bond weatherproof. You can't just dump it in the hole. You have to make sure it gets on the sides of the hole so you get a good bond. It takes some practice but you'll get it.
For the tops I use the same glue. I also tack them in with a brad nailer. Any screws you could use wouldn't be covered by the fillit. Mark, cut glue and brad nail the fillit.
If you're stuck on using the dowel screws, you can screw the balluster into the floor and then apply a little pressure to get it to duck into the rail up top. The plows are often pretty shallow. Most stair shops send square tops with dowel pins instead of dowel screws.
you'll find it easier to use a dowel runner and screw the dowel screws into the floor and then screw the ballusters on to them.
You can try to set the rail temporarily and then try to drop it back over the ballusters later but it's a nightmare of epic proportions.
1. Install the handrail temporarily (how?)
If that is the way you want to do this, all you are using the handrail for is to establish a straight line as a guide to cutting the balusters.
You can accomplish the same thing using a string and skipping that cumbersome step.
Have you thought of using a raised rail on the bottom? It makes it much easier to install the assembly and it's also easier to clean the stairs.
Bo,I like the raised rail idea, but is it legal. Does it pass the 4" sphere test?? (or whatever the test is??) I'm picturing the space bettween the bottom rail and the steps.Don't get me wrong. I like building pretty things, and they are not all perfectly legal,,,, but I like the raised rail idea, and I'm just wondering.Harry
By the IRC, as long as a 6" sphere can't pass thru the triangle created by the bottom rail/tread/riser, you're fine - - but check the codes in your area.
That said, I wouldn't use a bottom rail. You're on the right track by putting the ballusters on the treads. Looks a lot better, to me anyways. I prefer using the dowel screws to fasten them to the treads also; makes for a very stiff rail, especially on a long run.
Mike
You can screw the ballusters into the treads after the handrail has been attached.
Lean them back a bit and they will clear the plow until the last half twist, then you roll them in.
I discovered this when replacing broken ballusters into a finished rail.
"Perfect is the enemy of Good." Morrison
You can set all of your posts first, then cut the handrail and fit it into place, without attaching it. I always clamp it on in place and then plumb and cut the ballusters afterwards. That way you can screw the ballusters into treads.
A piece of twine works instead of the handrail being fit into place, but then its harder to match up the handrail to the ballusters afterwards. Pre-cut the handrail and trace its outline onto the post so you know where you want to set it after you have all of your ballusters screwed in.
I did this system, with all homemade parts, treads, etc., and it worked out fine. I made my handrail but didn't groove it underneath, but the ballusters all fit into it fine.
SS
Saved me from madness !!!
Gordsco
I am a DIY guy, but had never tackled a railing baluster project. I went with flush bottom and top 1 1/4 poplar stock and inserted dowel screws in the bottoms..... well that didn't give me an all level top on which to install the rail.
I usually figure if its not goin well , I am missing something, so I did a web search here and found your post. I unscrewed all the balusters and drilled the dowel screws in the floor. I then screwed the dowels on the balusters.
Then followed your instructions to tilt the square balusters in the plow..... worked as slick as ... well ya know. I just watched that the plow edge doesn't break.
Next time (if there is one !) I will go with a stair shop and get the wooden dowels... that seems like it would have been easier.
Anyway thanks for your "trick" ;-)
Rockguy
I watched https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cOK-GMkCTs&t=182s. All his tops lined up evenly with the rail and the bottoms lined up with the next tread. That means the mid turned section for the baluster on the leading edged was longer than the mid section of the baluster behind it. See screenshot. How did he get those balusters? Self made? Custom order? Dumb luck? I can find square top balusters but the turned mid point is the same length regardless of baluster length.