Replies

1. 
   Mongo | Oct 15, 2002 07:13am | #1

   3/4/5 triangle.

   Your diagonal is 40 feet.

   Edit: I should probably elaborate...

   To square a 24 by 32 foot layout, drive two stakes in the ground 24 feet apart. Stake "A" and stake "B". This is one side.

   Clip a tape to each stake. Run one tape out 32 feet in the geneal direction of the second side. Run the second tape out to 40 feet, on a diagonal through your proposed footprint, so it cuts across the rectangle. Think opposite corners. Pull the two tapes together tight so they intersect. Where the 32' and 40' marks come together, stake your third corner, stake "C".

   You can either repeat the above to get the last stake, or use two tapes to measure the straight sides, overlapping the tapes at 24' and 32' to get stake "D".

   Were your layout not in perfect 3/4/5 proportions...in this case, 24/32/40...you could use the pythagorean theorum to get the diaognal. Think right triangle with the two sides measuring 24' and 32'. You need to figure the diagonal.

   The square root of (24 squared plus 32 squared) equals the length of the diagonal in a right triangle.

   24*24=576 and 32*32=1024

   576 + 1024 = 1600

   The square root of 1600 is 40, which is the length of the diagonal in your footprint.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 10/15/2002 12:26:50 AM ET by Mongo

1. 
   1remodeler | Oct 15, 2002 07:22am | #2

   im looking more for tricks on squaring the string lines out of the hole 3/4/5 wont work with the big pile of dirt in the center of the hole its actualy a 2 story garage with 18" deep footings

1. 
   Mongo | Oct 15, 2002 07:38am | #3

   Okay...that little tidbit would have been appropriate to include in your first post.

   This is an excavated hole? A standard foundation-type hole? But the problem is a big-#### pile of dirt in the middle of the hole?

   Then run 3/4/5 with strings above the hole, extended the lines past the edges of the hole with batter boards, up on grade. Drop plumb lines down from the intersecting lines to mark your corners.

   If your talking about something different...which is likely considering the wealth of detail in your description...like a simple 18" trench with the excavated material piled in the middle...then use simple geometry to run your measurements outside the footprint, then back in.

1. 
   1remodeler | Oct 15, 2002 07:43am | #5

   thanks

1. 
   Piffin | Oct 15, 2002 02:56pm | #6

   A laser level with right angle splitter works good too. It's something you need for remodeleing anyhow.

   What kind of dirt is it? Maybe it shouldn't be there...

   Monolithic generally refers to slab and footers in one pour.

   Excellence is its own reward!

   Edited 10/15/2002 7:58:12 AM ET by piffin

2. 
   brownbagg | Oct 15, 2002 07:15pm | #7

   Batter boards, 10 feet from footing, that way a backhole can fit. Get rid of the pile of dirt, trust us, it is in the way. start at one corner, that be a pivot stake. Do not move this point no matter what. Never. Pull the 3,4,5 or 30,40,50 what ever . Use the pythagorean theorem as mention eariler. pull diagonal. Tip, 1/4 inch differents might not seem to be off much but that is five inches out on other end. In other words you wil have  toadd five inches of wall. so pull a (metal) tape with force. a nuff force to pull your partner over. DO NOT USE A FABRIC TAPE. Use a plumb bob. It will take a couple hours to square a slab but remember if the slab is un square whole house will be un square. Set batter board elevation one foot above concrete slab grade.

   Everybody in different area have different method so some might not agree with these. But go slow, get a partner that does not talk, think, move around give him a walkman radio and be precise. You can also shoot it but you still need to double check this way.

   another tip, set a temp benchmark for elevation far out of way. I usually set one in front and back for checking elevation. Once the slab is poured you will not need them but if someone bumps the form before placement.

   Edited 10/15/2002 8:18:05 PM ET by BROWNBAGG

3. 
   Piffin | Oct 15, 2002 08:18pm | #8

   LMAO

   Here we are all complaining that all we can find is that kind of help and here you are recommending hiring the slowbrained variety..

   Excellence is its own reward!

4. 
   1remodeler | Oct 16, 2002 12:33am | #9

   best advice yet especialy on the walkman

2. 
   Framer | Oct 15, 2002 07:39am | #4

   Is there any way that you can move the dirt?

2. 
   bd342 | Oct 16, 2002 03:33am | #10

   If you don't have one already rent a transit.

   Set the tripod over whichever corner you want to start from,and run the plumb bob that comes with it down to your starting pin. This pin should be a convenient number away from the actual foundation wall.

    Sight down your first wall and pivot  your sight line down to the ground .This gives you the spot for your second pin.

   Then at the base of the transit you set the indicator to zero and the pivot the transit 90 degrees. Once again pivot the transit down and get your third pin in the ground. string mason line between them and pull your numbers from them. Leave the transit set up you'll use it to level out your foundation forms. Make sure you get a transit  and not just a builders level.

   P.S.T. Why don't you get rid of the dirt?

1. 
   Piffin | Oct 16, 2002 04:26am | #11

   "P.S.T. Why don't you get rid of the dirt?"

   For cryin' out loud! You just told him to do it this afternoon. Give him a day or two.

   LOL.

   Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   1remodeler | Oct 20, 2002 10:50pm | #12

   The dirt needs to stay in the center for the slab to sit on.

   Idid pour it yesturday we used the laser for squaring it I was amased at how well it worked it took 1 1/2 hours and came out perfect better than I thought it would.

   Your transit would have worked well too unfortunatly I only have a builders level so I did'nt even think of a transit, good advice.

1. 
   Piffin | Oct 20, 2002 10:58pm | #13

   "What kind of dirt is it? Maybe it shouldn't be there... "

   The thing we were getting at is that dirt is for growing pumpkins and corn and tomatoes. It doesn't work very well to build on organic material..

   Excellence is its own reward!