Question for all you tilesetters out there:
I’m preparing to tile a floor that has some squeaks in it. I’ve screwed the subfloor to joists every 8″ and even put blocking between the joists in some locations. Despite all of these efforts, I still have some squeaks. No visible deflection when viewed from above or below, but still some squeaking. I’m planning to lay down 1/4″ hardibacker over latex modified thinset, screwing it down every 8″ or so. Seams will be reinforced with fiberglass tape and thinset. tTiles are 12″ set in the same latex modified thinset.
The question I have is should I continue to chase these squeaks or will the backerboard solidify the floor so it flexes as one unit. I think the majority of the squeaks are simply nails rubbing on the subfloor or the plywood joints rubbing. Am I ok with my method or am I lasking for a whole lot of cracked tiles and grout in the future?
Marcus
Replies
chase the squeaks or at some time the deflection will transmit thru and show up as cracked grout lines and broken tiles..
good to place to look is at the butted edges of the sub flooring... good chance they are rubbing together...
plate / scab the sheet seams to one another from the underside...
PL and ripped 3/4 ply screwed into place works great for this...
what do you have for a subfloor... the laminates may be delaminated in places and that is adding to the problem..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Edited 3/1/2005 2:08 pm ET by IMERC
SUbfloor is 3/4 ply over 2x10 (generally 16' clear spans). No delamination on the ply, however the prior HO had three small water leaks that evidently went undetected for a long time. Its in those areas where the squeaking seems to be worse.
I'm familliar with scabbing on a 2x4 on the sides of the joist, using construction adheasive liberally on it and screwing the subfloor and the joist to it. Can you elaborate on the plywood and PL (plain lumber?) trick you talk about?
FYI: HVAC has been isolated as not being the cause, its definintly a joist/subfloor issue. Ive already corrected some joists areas where there was a gap between the (screws, construction adheasive and a lot of weight).
Your floor is not rated for tile because its deflection is l/269 if the joists are on 16 inch spacing. Check it here:http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl
The 16 foot span for 2x10s has too much deflection.
You need to think about putting a wall (maybe a closet?) below the joists to shorten the span and bring it up to ceramic trile standards. Then you should add another 1/2inch plywood over the 3/4" ply and then 1/4" cement board.
Billy
Subfloor is 3/4 ply over 2x10 (generally 16' clear spans).
to much span by a couple / three feet or so... you'll need to add joists, stiffeners or install a beam on the underside to shorten up the span...... Billy has good recommendations too... this is mutiple choice not all the above...
No delamination on the ply, however the prior HO had three small water leaks that evidently went undetected for a long time.
You can bet the bottom dollar it did here... change out the ply and sister new joists to the ones that got wet... consider it a "have to"... go full lenth joists and not have to look back.. once the tile is down going back isn't an option that you want to deal with... major PITA...
I'm familliar with scabbing on a 2x4 on the sides of the joist, using construction adheasive liberally on it and screwing the subfloor and the joist to it. Can you elaborate on the plywood and PL (plain lumber?) trick you talk about?
PL is PL Premium construction adhesive... ferocious stuff.. can't do much better... Lowes carries it.. Liquid Nails is a joke, the VOC's is / are a major hazard(s) and will fail...
rip some ply strips say 6"wide or so and cut to length to fit between the jiosts... Glue and screw them flat to the bottom of the subfloor at the seams... yur blocking the seams this way... use 2by material if you want but the ply will work just fine...
Ummmmmmmmmmmmm............
what did you use for screws... (cringe)... and do you have bridging or solid blocking in exsistence now...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Isolate pipes and HVAC that can be in contacat too, besides what IMERC said.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Restoring, Remodeling, Reclaiming The Quality..
if the HVAC and plumbing is squeaking he's under joisted...
don't ya think...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
could just be a fattie too..LOLI worked on a place a few yrs ago, definatly was not under joisted, but still a pipe was rubbing on the underside of the ply. A hub just kissed the subfloor enought to creak.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Restoring, Remodeling, Reclaiming The Quality..
test for joist flex...
measure the gap from the bottom of the joist to the floor (the one yur standing on) unloaded..
get several friends or family to move around in unision (close order drill)... the more the merrier..
measure the gap changes...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!