Replies

1. 
   stinky | Dec 14, 2007 01:51am | #1

   that stuff is a mo-fo to deal with.the trick is to apply with a brush and use THIN coats. You might have to apply 2-3 applics.I would recommend hvlp and spray the doors laying flat. stinky

2. 
   fingers | Dec 14, 2007 03:13am | #2

   The other issue is that fir can take stain very unevenly.

   Too late now but often it's best to use a sanding sealer first.

   Something like a 1 lb. cut of shellac (where's Frenchy? I mentioned shellac)

1. 
   frenchy | Dec 14, 2007 06:25am | #9

   fingers,

     I'm here!

3. 
   IdahoDon | Dec 14, 2007 03:18am | #3

   A dark stain on fir is very hard indeed. 

   There are two issues at work.  First, fir needs a thinned first coat or it will not soak into the pores evenly.  Second, you'll need to find a better way of applying the stain/poly. 

   Personally, if I were given the doors in the current condition I'd sand them smooth and start from scratch due to the first issue above, which can't be fixed other than sanding.

   The stain works well if it's sprayed.

   Cheers

    

   Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.

4. 
   Dave45 | Dec 14, 2007 03:29am | #4

   I recently used a Minwax Dark Walnut stain+poly Poplar and it came out very well - but it was a major PITA.  The dark stains are highly pigmented and you really need to pay attention while your laying it on.

   This was my first time using stain+poly, so I suspect that my technique can stand some improvement, too.  Several thin coats will probably be better than one thicker coat.  I also found it necessary to stir the can pretty often so the pigments stayed off the bottom.  Next time, I may try spraying.

5. 
   byhammerandhand | Dec 14, 2007 03:31am | #5

   Stain and poly all-in-ones are probably one of the worst ideas ever. A friend of mine calls it "the worst thing to ever happen to a can."

   Technically it would be called a toner, and a heavy bodied one at that. Toners almost always need to be sprayed in light even coats to look good. I have seen some so-called painters that have tried to use this and the results looked like dog barf after a garbage can raid.

6. 
   ted | Dec 14, 2007 03:47am | #6

   Been there done that. As I recall I used some stain conditioner (sealer?) That took care of the blotchiness. I think a washcoat of shellac would probably work too.

1. 
   scotsdave | Dec 14, 2007 04:59am | #7

   Thanks everyone for the advice, I guess i'll have to start sanding.

1. 
   shellbuilder | Dec 14, 2007 05:11am | #8

   That stuff is ok for shoe molding 

2. 
   alanj | Dec 14, 2007 11:40am | #11

   Sand away! Nothing else to do, if you want to do it right.Get a chip in that sh!t and you see the wood below. No stain colors the wood. Basically it's semi-transarent paint.

7. 
   frenchy | Dec 14, 2007 06:27am | #10

   scotsdave,

    the only way not to make a hopeless blotch of that stuff is with a great spray gun, perfect spraying technique (that stuff is harder to spray  then metalflake)  and  do it level.. then when you are finished give it one final coat of clear..

       Dumb stupid idea!