I need to do my Tom Sawyer bit here and see how many of you I can talk into having fun painting my fence…
The fence builder used electro galvanized nails to attach the cedar fence boards and after the first rain, some of them are starting to create black stains down the boards. I was planning to just let the cedar boards weather, so added durability of the boards is secondary to sealing the nails to stop the staining. I have had a couple of recommendations that Flood’s CWF UV5 stain can do the job with a semi-transparent stain that doesn’t have a “painted” look that some of the heavier stains seem to give.
Any comments on on the CWF UV5? Any suggestions for a superior product?
Also, application suggestions for the stain. I was thinking of a roller. I also could use a brush or my Binks HVLP gun, although I don’t know whether the 4.6 cfm portable compressor that I have here will provide enough air for the gun. I have a little less than 100′ of fence that I need to do.
Thanks, Casey
Replies
use a pump up garden sprayer...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
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Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Hey, great idea. I have several of them sitting at my place up in Oregon that I use to spray the poison oak, but since that is about 600 miles away from where I am at present, I will head over to my local Orchard Supply Hardware and grab another one.
they's be the ticket...
get a cheap one... the stain will tear it up...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
i went and bought shingle oil at the oil dealership and used a cheap wagner spray gun, works perfect and looks great
What is shingle oil? never heard of it
concentrated cedar oil...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
called so because of it' use on cedar shingled roofs...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Its a light petroleum oil you can ask your oil dealership i use it on cedar roofs I have to go look up what it says on the bucket.
Get a gun first and some stainless nails or screws to refasten that fence first.
Cedar tannins are hard on the electroplate.
If the cedar is nailed to ACQ, it is even harder on it. In a couple years, nothing will be holding it together. gotta use hot dipped galvies or stainless with that stuff.
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I am adding coated deck screws. Can't think of the name of them at the moment, but they are the ones sold by Home Depot that have the combination phillips/square drive and come with a free bit in each box. I use them a lot and hope they will hold up in this situation. The tan color will petty much match ost of the fence boards.
I used to use CWF products but they have changed and I've been very unsatisfied with them. Recently, I started using Defy products on things like cedar, I'm impressed. Using the deck wash and/or wood brightener will remove the stains. You need to wash the surface for prep, it will be worth it. I would use a roller. You'll get more material on the fence and less everywhere else. The clear I just used requires two wet on wet coats. The roller works well for saturating the surface and picking up drips. There are many types of rollers depending on the structure. I used a small four inch with a terry cover and kept a brush handy for cutting in. Best results I've ever had with Defy, made 25 yr. old shingles look like new.
http://www.opwdecks.com/defyepoxy.htm
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I recall using Olympic semi-transparent stain on high grade cedar siding, a contract job on some nice condos. The appearance didn't impress me at all. I'd advise you to do a test prior to commiting to any semi-transparent stain...or use one of the clear products.
Stainless bugle head screws are the best fasteners but if you can't pull the nails, they won't help now.
after spraying it on with your pump-up sprayer, you'll want to rub it in a little. Buy a 'stain paid' which is a fuzzy nappy sponge pad meant for the job. Spray on then go over it with the stain pad. It'll make the stain penetrate much better and coat things more evenly.
wouldn't a roller be better???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
wouldn't a roller be better???
I've used a roller for stain on cedar and it takes a little pressure to make it penetrate. That's a good indication to me that spraying it on isn't going to be very effective, not without the scrub pad suggested.
I'd opt for the 9" roller because, with a five gallon pail and a roller screen hung inside, you can cover a lot of area quickly and effectively. A roller is also a better choice because there's less chemical in the air than with a sprayer and you can stand back three feet or so, using a stick handle or an aluminum extension handle.
With any kind of spray equipment it's advisable to wear a painter's mask, the kind with two filter elements.
the garden sprayer is more prone to spray a solid stream than an atomized one..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
The fence/deck pad's sponge holds so much more stain. Roller is really messy and pours and drips everywhere.
It's the stiff, fuzzy face of the stain pad that really seems to work on rough surfaces like a cedar fence.
I build a lot of fences and usually spray on finishes with my airless, then follow with the pad.
If I don't spray or need to do a little area, like a gate or just posts or something, I just dip the pad directly in the stain and the application goes really quickly. The pads usually come with a plastic handle/applicator so you're not getting stain all over your hands either. Looks like this: http://www.mclendons.com/item.asp?sku=10951400
Roller is really messy and pours and drips everywhere.
Now that I think back to that job, you're right. But there is one way around that. You have to spin the roller on the screen in the bucket to get rid of the excess and then spin it again before moving it to the surface where you want to apply the stain.
While it's spinning, the centrifugal force keeps the stain from running to the bottom of the roller sleeve and dripping off. It's a neat little trick that isn't 100% effective but it was the only method I had available on those condos.
There were a series of cedar-clad chimneys, all on the low side of the building, which stood about fifty feet high. I was working off a forty foot extension ladder, standing three rungs down using a 12' aluminum extension pole. It was a rather precarious position, particularly with the roller spinning and stain spraying off as I hoisted it up over my head and tried to hit the next dry spot before the roller stopped and the stain ran out onto the hooded sweatshirt I'd sacrificed to that job.
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