I installed a handrail on a porch that was going to be painted, so I countersunk the lag screws and bondo’d the holes. Now the client wants to stain the rail. I’m concerned that the bondo plugs will look like big circles against the wood. Thinking about using a small brush or a q-tip to apply a sanding sealer just to the bondo so it doesn’t accept too much stain, then go back and touch up the color later. Is there a better way?
I’m sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
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Replies
Could you cut a recess in the bondo and then glue in a wood plug?
Kind of fussy, aren't you, Ed? Why not try it on a piece of scrap first.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Wooden plugs cut from the same board are best.
Try sample and maybe touch up the spots by hand using felt-tip markers or better, stains to match. I tried to blend pigments in the bondo...but the results were dissatisfying. Check interplay of touch-up with finish on sample too.
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There's not enough depth for a wood plug. The lag screw was sunk just far enough toi be below the surface.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Matt, you been missing a while?
Welcome back.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
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....to apply a sanding sealer just to the bondo so it doesn't accept too much stain....
I've never attempted to stain bondo, but I'd be worried that it would not accept any stain. Bondo acts a lot like PVC with regards to absorbtion of finishes.
Of course, it doesn't matter, the stuff son't match the surrounding wood in either case. Best solution is the plugs that others have mentioned. Next best might be to drill out the bondo and use a wod filler.
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.
Paint the Bondo to match the stained wood. I've done this in many places from matching small pieces of woodwork to matching a odd brick in an old brick wall that was newly exposed. If done right you can't tell the difference. An artist friend of mine matched an entire door and casing. That takes some talent that goes way beyond my ability. But, something like a plug should be easy. Practice on a scrap first.
Following on Joe's post, give yourself a light coloed basecoat of paint similar to the background wood color (with finish). After that you can touch it up and topcoat it all together
You can add japan colors to bodo as you mix it up or the powdered pigments and it will color the bondo solid. Bondo doesn't really stain that well, or it stains very different than the wood. I used to use Bondo on woods outdoors but not anymore. Over time, outdoor wood really moves, Bondo doesn't, and the moisture gets under the bondo and causes water retention and wood to soften and ultimately to rot. It's best to use a wood plug. I would redrill the hole a little bigger and then epoxy a plug of wood in there (no endgrain), and then stain it up.
It's too late guys. The handrail is actually on the inside of an enclosed (glassed-in, heated & a/c) porch, so it won't see any weather. And the bondo was in the holes before I asked, so I couldn't mix color in the bondo.
The wood is probably poplar, maybe pine, definately not oak or other fancy wood. The stain is merlot, a dark purple-burgandy color, and it worked well. The wood soaked up enough of the stain that the difference is acceptable. FWIW the bondo is a unifromly colored circle.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Ed, this is not for the financially challenged, but I work with one painter who is extremely good at painting faux wood on... anything. He painted the grey Porter Cable box for his sander to look like a piece of quartered white oak and it's unbelievable. Guys like that--grain painters--could save you, but it would cost at least a hundred bucks, and for a few one-inch circles, that's several thousand dollars per square foot. Still, maybe worth it if you absolutely need the save.
Trade the customer in on a new one...??
I have to laugh on this one because this week, my customer sent me her paint and finish selections. after having the windows ordered pre-primed and ordering doors with masonite type panels, I saw her listing for all doors and windows - stained.
My stomach did a 360 or so
Then in my phone call -
"Gotta few things to talk over so I'm clear on it all...just a few questions...
>after the easy ones<
"Now on these doors and windows..."
she saw it immediately and siad she had made a mistake doing some copy and paste from the item above which was floors.
Whew! that would have added a good thrity thousand and another couple months to the time/cost/line
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The client is being very good about the whole thing. The bondo circles don't bother him at all ... they are like accents to him. But they bother me, and if he had said stain from the beginning I could have easily handled it.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Now this is something that gets my blood boiling. Halfway through a project a client decides that they love the look of the wood and dont want to paint it. Its almost predictable so I try to carefully explain the diiference between paint grade, and stain grade work before I get started. I've accomodated clients on this many times and wound up with work that I wished I done better.
Just a little venting. Sorry!
Tom
Gel stain might work - it's used for fiberglass doors
these are nice for application
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=45857&cat=1,190,43034&ap=1
Is there any chance the customer would go for painting the handrail and staining the rest? It could be a good contrast with a bit of 'eye pop' appeal.
The rail is stained dark mahogany or similar, and the rest of the woodwork is bright white. It stands out nicely.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Is the stain the final finish?
I think you can try some toning laquer over the bondo. It's difficult to eliminate the look though. You can spray the laquer through a mask to give a soft edge. Use an irregular hole in the mask.
I don't expect laquer to hold up well unless there is a clear finish over it.