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Staining Cedar Shingles Project

MrMagoo | Posted in Construction Techniques on September 23, 2002 05:55am

I’ve read and heard all the benefits of back priming cedar shingles before hanging them, but I wonder if this is really necessary when using Penofin’s Ultra oil finish. I’m using 16″ Red Cedar R&R’s with a 6 ” exposure…about 30 squares.

Option #1 : Pre-stain entire shingle before hanging. Need lots and lots of Penofin (45 gallons) and lots of time.

                                                         or

Option #2: Hang shingles and stain only 6″ exposure. Need approx. 15 gallons of Penofin.  At $37.00 per gallon…that’s an $1,110.00 difference.

I’m concerned that down the road if we ever decided to paint the house, it would be comforting to know that out paint job will have a better life expectancy.  Am I analyzing this too much or is this a real concern?  Thanks for any input you can offer.

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  1. Boxduh | Sep 23, 2002 06:50pm | #1

    Is there time to get them done at the "factory?"  There are shops that specialize in this.  Some advertise regularly in Fine Homebuilding.  Most all lumberyards and suppliers know how to get it done for you.  I did not allow enough lead time on my last job, and we dipped them all in a Cabot's oil, set up a bunch of racks and lines, and let 'em dry like washed dishcloths.  Our exposure was 7", so we dipped about 9", and did not worry about seeing the unfinished cedar in the dark shady reveals between shingles.

    1. MrMagoo | Sep 23, 2002 08:43pm | #2

      Gene,

      All the shingles are on site, so it's now or never.

      What I'm really trying to determine is if there is any REAL long term benefit in staining the entire shingle. The money issue is one thing, but right now saving time could be a big benefit as well. Thanks for your comments.

      Tim M.

      1. Boxduh | Sep 23, 2002 09:55pm | #3

        I'm thinking of your cost differential, re the oil-based finish.  Yes, there is a benefit to coating all sides of the shingles, even the whole length, not just the exposed-plus-lap part (twice exposure).  But clear WRC is a very long-term product, especially when installed well.  If you are able to keep it somewhat dry with large overhangs, do so.  The use of something to get drying air to the backside, like Benjamin Obdyke's "slicker" underlay (http://www.obdyke.com/html/inst_slick_sw.html) will aid greatly.  Use only SS ring shank nails to hang them, SS staples as a second choice.  Put 'em up, stain in place, and the finish should probably outlast you.

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