All
We are starting to stain and varnish Marvin Double Hung windows today.
After opening the windows and removing the sash it looks like it will be a PITA to mask off the weather strip for finishing.
I was just wondering if any of you had any tips for making the process any easier.
We have done quite a few Anderson windows but this is the first time we have done Marvins.
Thank you for any advice.
Rich
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Replies
The assembly the sashes slide in can actually be removed completely. It's a vinyl base in which the two steel sliding tracks are embedded.
You have to take out each sash. The sash tips down after you unlock the top of the sash from the track. When the sash is horizontal tip one side of the bottom of the sash up and away from the frame to get the attachment clear of the track and then the other side of the sash bottom will come out of the track easily.
The next step is the tricky part, you have to move the sliders in the track that the bottom of the sash was attached to up to the top of their range of motion in the track.
First grab a flat head screwdriver, insert it into the sash slider attachment that the bottom of the sash was attached to and turn it ninety degrees. This will release the pressure keeping the slider in place and allow the attachment to slide in the track.
!!!! Do not remove the screw driver !!!!!
Hold on to the screw driver firmly making sure the attachment point can't move. The attachment point has a great deal of spring loaded tension on it. If you let go it will fly to the top of the track and possibly damage things.
With the screw driver in place, slowly ease the attachment point up to the top of the track. Once this is done for all four attachment points, two for each sash, you can now peel the track assembly out of the frame.
It comes out in one piece! Start at the bottom by prying out one side of the beige vinyl track assembly. Once you have a bit of the assembly out of the frame the rest can be peeled out by hand, kind of like removing a bicycle tire.
Learned this from a Marvin installer as I wanted to blind nail the windows. It sounds like a lot of work but once you have done one you'll realize it is pretty straight forward. Start with a small window in a utility room for practice.
After reading your question again I realize you may be referring to the weather strip on the sashes themselves. Don't have any suggestions for that, though the above instructions may be still helpful.
Andrew
Thank you, thank you , thank you.
That is exactly what I was looking for. We wanted to take the spring track out but we were unsure how to do it.
We are currently masking the sashes (out of the frame) for staining and spraying.
I know there is alot of tension on the springs and the cam lock. Don't ask how I know. LOL
Jambs haven't been started yet. Also have grills to stain/paint.
Then we will prestain and use a gel stain. Followed up with spraying on lacquer.
Rich
Andrew and All
I took picture of the Marvin track removal process.
I'll do show the pics and explain over several posts.
The reason we were doing this is the jambs on the existing Marvins (15 years old) are rotten as you will see in the 1st picture.
We are replacing 4 windows for these people.
The problem surfaced several years ago when the downstairs window showed signs of mold. The builder won't come look at it, so i came out there and removed siding and found damage from the upstairs window, behind the house wrap down to the kitchen window, around the window and to the plate.
The studs below the main floor window were completely rotten.
At this point I got out of the process while the company, the local window retailer and the builder pointed fingers at each other. Anyway the main floor window was replaced and the upstairs windows were (fixed).
Well the problem persisted and now I am replacing 4 windows.
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Rich
Edited 11/7/2008 8:38 pm ET by cargin
All
The 1st thing you have to do is remove the stop at the top of the window.
As you can see in pic #65 that the stop is held in place with a fin and ker system.
I tilted the stop to one side, inserted a stiff putty knife, then used a 1/2" piece of wood as a fulcrum and slowly worked it out.
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Rich
All
# 53 shows me moving the sash springs to the highest postion so that there is no pressure on the spring.
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Rich
All
Then grab the sash guide at the bottom of the window. I pulled the inside portion as seen in #67 then when it was loose I worked the exterior side loose up to the middle of the window.
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Rich
Edited 11/7/2008 8:40 pm ET by cargin
All
At the middle of the window is a wood divider that has to be removed.
By twisting the sash guide you will loosen the wood from it's dado.
Then pull it out and use a knife to cut it loose from the foam gasket at the top.
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Rich
All
At the top of the window is a screw that holds the sash guide in place.
I know the picture makes it look like it is at the bottom of the window.
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Rich
All
Then finish removing sash guide.
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Rich
All
Then you have an open jamb for staining and varnishing.
I am considering painting the bottom of the guide pocket (out of sight when the guide is installed) with a good oil base primer to seal the wood in the event of more moisture getting in that pocket.
I know that I will have to use modern standards of flashing a window that were not used when the windows were originally installed. The house wrap was also very poorly done.
The guy that built the house is a very good builder, but not very much attention was paid to installing the house wrap.
Thank you Andrew for the help.
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Rich
Edited 11/7/2008 8:34 pm ET by cargin
Thanks Rich,Glad I could help. Thanks for the helpful pictures, should come in handy as a future resource. Something worth noting, I bought my Marvin Windows in the spring of 2004. I assume the windows you are working on are new? The sash guide of the windows I put in weren't screwed at the top. And so it wasn't necessary to remove the wood divider. I guess you had to figure that bit out on your own? I wonder when they started screwing down the sash guide?Cheers,Andrew