Replies

1. 
   JIm_McCue | Aug 25, 2000 03:52am | #1

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   I believe that Eastern White Cedar Shingles are typically sold green, and that painting or staining is not recommended until the wood has a chance to dry out. I think oil is the right choice for raw cedar, it penetrates the wood very well. The stain manufacturer can tell you what the moisture content of the cedar should be before you apply the finish for the best result.

1. 
   cj_russell | Aug 31, 2000 03:57am | #2

   *Jim, Thanks for your reply. I will most definately wait for the shakes to season before using the oil stain. cj russell

2. 
   Guest_ | Aug 31, 2000 04:08am | #3

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   bs.. you'll get longer life if they're stained before you even put them up.. and they're definitely not green....

   if you stain them right away it will be almost as good as if you had done it before they were put up.. but when they shrink you will see all the gaps in between the shingles...

   if you wait, they will cup, curl, and split.. now is better...

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 31, 2000 05:21am | #4

   *Now is also the only time you can stain the back sides and the covered portion of the front. Uses a lot more stain, but it makes for very uniform and complete coverage. -David

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 01, 2000 01:48am | #5

   *Ditto Mike's advice .........used to dip ours .....think you get longer life...may outlast you.

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 01, 2000 05:58am | #6

   *I too agree with Mike. Stain,(or prime), all sides of all exterior wooden siding and trim products. Especially final cuts where the end grain might be exposed. Just a dab will keep it from wicking for years. I also agree that a dip tank will expedite the process.

3. 
   Robert_Macaione | Sep 01, 2000 06:21am | #7

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   Mike,
   I've heard of back priming when painting, but does back staining have the same effect?

4. 
   Guest_ | Sep 01, 2000 01:42pm | #8

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   robt...not to the same effect , but it wil still help... if it is a heavey body oil stain.. then probably the same effect

   any thing that will prevent the passage of moisture will have an effect..and since it is not exposed to weather or ultraviolet, the effect will be long (LONG) lasting..

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 02, 2000 03:49pm | #9

   *We used an old wringer washer ....put roller covers on the wringers, fill the tub with stain, then dip and run through the wring and put in a rack to dry. Worked well.

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 02, 2000 06:19pm | #10

   *Are eastern white cedar shakes sold green or ain't they? And if they are, does it still make sense to do the oil stain dip before they dry?

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 03, 2000 01:19am | #12

   *Some are .....there still a few shingle mills around this area. Most all the stuff from lumberyards I've used is from Canada (beauty, eh?) and if stored properly, is dry as a bone.

5. 
   cj_russell | Sep 03, 2000 01:19am | #11

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   I recently built a new garage for myself and sided it with white cedar shakes. I want to stain them with a solid color stain. Some people think I should wait for an entire year before staining to let the shakes weather. I have my doubts about this. What is the accepted practice? Also I plan on using oil based stain if that makes a difference.
   Thanks for the help. CJ