Just picked up some lengths of stainless 6″ pipe to line my chimney with but would like an experienced opinion on the quality of the stainless. Length is 20ft from stove entry to top of chimney.
On the pipe the print reads:
Felker Weld 6″ OD 14gauge TP 304L A778 ASTM HT-0 HT#240291 OP#1350 CRR#22119-3 SO#228950
‘Course I don’t know what all those numbers mean but was hoping someone might be able to fill in the blanks as to the use or not of this for a chimney liner.
I question perhaps the quality of the stainless might just be for liquids and not for heat. I dunno.
Anyone know?
Thanks
Edited 8/17/2009 8:24 pm ET by rez
Replies
I can only be a little help.
Obviously, the thickness is 14 gauge. The important info is that the alloy is type 304L, but I can't say anything about its suitability for flue pipe. Technically, the alloy is 304 and the temper (heat treatment) is L.
The four sets of numbers at the end are probably irrelevant. They look like job tracking numbers. For example, the final number is the shop order number. Looks like you got leftovers from a large job.
You may be able to look up chimney liners on the internet and see if type 304 stainless steel is used by companies who manufacture chimney liners.
Looks like the 304L is good for wood:
http://www.selkirkcorp.com/heatfab/product.aspx?id=7184
Also noticed that they commonly use the 304L for custom stainless exhaust systems. If you can't line your chimney with it, you could make a fine set of open headers...
Bob
The most important question is whether or not it is UL listed (UL 1777) for use as a chimney liner and meets NFPA 211, IMO.
Jeff
Edited 8/17/2009 9:26 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke
stainless chimney liners come in continuos lengths usually 25' and up and it flexes for ease of use
What is the size of the existing flue that you are using the liner for? is it clay or just plain brick ? is the chimney on an exterior wall or is it in the middle of the house ? a woodstove liner should also be insulated to minimize the buildup of creosote, the insulation can be: poured insulation or ceramic blanket wrapped around the liner with a stainless steel mesh to contain it in place. that is if you have the room between the existing flue,
Interior chimney, unlined 2 brick wide replacing the present standard thinner gauge 6inch SS 36" long sections.
go for it....
24ga 304L is the norm for wood burning stoves...
BTW... you have snaplok seams or welded???
Stainless Steel - Grade 304
Chemical Formula
Fe, <0.08% C, 17.5-20% Cr, 8-11% Ni, <2% Mn, <1% Si, <0.045% P, <0.03% S
Heat Resistance
Good oxidation resistance in intermittent service to 870°C and in continuous service to 925°C. Continuous use of 304 in the 425-860°C range is not recommended if subsequent aqueous corrosion resistance is important. Grade 304L is more resistant to carbide precipitation and can be heated into the above temperature range
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
They have a bell housing on one end. Two 9-to10ft something lengths and a 5 footer to be cut to what's needed at the top and a short curved piece ready for a weld for the entry point.
Cool beans.
Thanks all.
define bellhousing...
you sure you need welding???
what are you hooking up to...
cut the pipe with yur right angle grinder and a thin cut off wheel...
now that will be cake and pie....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
One end of pipe has an increased dia meter for several inches to permit a straight, normal unbelled end to slip into it.
Never considered welding.
Yep, 14gauge.
AHJ? Awful House Journal?
Edited 8/18/2009 2:20 am ET by rez
One end of pipe has an increased dia meter for several inches to permit a straight, normal unbelled end to slip into it.
that is the end that goes up....
Never considered welding.
thought ya did in post #11....
Yep, 14gauge.
sweet....
stole it too didn'ja...
AHJ? Awful House Journal?
close enough these house rules...
now go back answer the rest of the questions...
you feeding thru a boot and a tee???
installing a damper???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
I see, the short piece for stove entry to the stack. Since we were discussing the main union points I thought we were there.
So yer thinking a clamp mechanism for the entry point collar might be easier than messing with a weld?
Then screw in a SS thinwall piece with a damper?
Do you even need a damper?Mine cooked away and it was always wide open anyway, so I never bothered to put it back ( pipe disc type) and the stove draws better anyway. I back er down by cutting back supply air. 20' stack here too.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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Been burning for a couple years now with no damper. Suppose I could always add one later if needed.
be over thinking
as you can see there is a different opinions on method...
pick that works for you...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Here's the only clamp system I can find for sale. Must be what you've seen:http://www.protechinfo.com/c4/c269/c9/FasNClamp-Components-c250.htmlhttp://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
that looks like the clamp for flex to ridgid B vent...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Hi, IMERC sorry i was not around, my computer crashed and was out for repair. The stainless steel flue pipe that is in sections is meant to be put together with stainless steel rivets when you get the pipe, each section comes with a plastic baggie that has about four rivets taped at the end of the inside of the pipe. or you can get them at HD. Get the 1/4 inch. and be prepared to drill each male end because the female ends come pre drilled. make sure that you have a helping hand to hold the pipe while you drill and fasten. or have a bungy cord and a piece of pipe or stick across the top of the chimney to hold the pipe so it will not fall. at the end of the run where the stove is to be connected you should have a stainless steel " T" with a cap for cleaning. all components in the system should match the stainless that you re using. If you have room between the brick chimney and the stainless insulate because that keeps the flue hot and reduces the chance of Creosote build up and that means a safe and easy care flue. when you have done your flue have a top plate , a storm, a top clamp, and a stainless steel chimney cap. have a safe burn. DONT use screws they can be a holding area where the brushes can get stuck or Creosote can build up.
Edited 9/1/2009 10:39 pm ET by snoofy
Edited 9/1/2009 10:40 pm ET by snoofy
thanks..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
cake and pie
should be...
are you clanping the sections and remember to put the female ends up...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Should be able to forgo clamping and use 3 screws per junction instead, no?
no screws...
or rivits...
not even tape...
clamps...
View Image
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
well, I have to ask how come?
I mean standard operating procedure on the thinwall 36" SS sections are screws.
Does the increased thickness of the wall affect the use of screws?
no mechaical fasteners (screws) thru the liner...
they are step one for the start of a leak(s)...
BTW... is that pipe really 14GA???
AHJ rules...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
three screws per joint is standard for metal exhaust pipe. Required by code last I knew
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
flue... bands....
screws are a no go...
regional????
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
The best I can determine, most liner systems use screws and one (a flex system) uses a pipe clamp type proprietary system (similar to a fernco fitting) for connection of two pieces of flex.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
make it a regional thing...
flues and metal exhaust venting does not get screws here...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
It was in Colorado that I learned i had to do the three per joint
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I've searched numerous chimney liner sites and I can't find any instructions that mention clamps, nor can I find any clamps that could be used for such a purpose for sale online. I can find every other necessary component to line a chimney with stainless steel for sale including stainless steel zip screws. The code was 3 screws per joint when I used to line chimneys. I called a chimney sweep I know today (a member of the National Chimney Sweep Guild) and he'd never heard of clamps or of any such code changes. I can't imagine how a clamp could work on a standard male/female pipe connection unless it was a proprietary system. There was a system I used years ago - Ventinox was the brand name - that had a pipe clamp system for hooking the flex pieces to the rigid, but that was designed into the system. It also had to be screwed.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
the SOP of.... "well everybody does it that way" deal is about that same as you might as well as eat dung because 500 bazillion flies can't be wrong....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
The clamp you show could in no way hold two sections of pipe together. It is a top clamp designed and used to hold the liner in place and create an expansion joint. When the liner is installed, a metal plate is used to close off the top of the chimney with the SS liner protruding thru a hole in the plate. When the desired height of the liner is obtained, the clamp you pictured is installed against the top plate holding the liner in place. When the liner heats up and needs to expand, it can move upward, lifting the clamp off of the top plate and then return to it's original position when it cools. http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
got it..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"