I have a prospective job that requires the installation of a stainless steel backsplash for a kitchen counter. The counter will remain of another material. Does anybody have any pointers or things to watch out for? I’m debating between regular green board or a cement backer board. Does it matter?
Thanks.
Tips for picking the right paintbrush based on paint type, surface, and personal comfort.
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Replies
Never done it myself so take this for what it's worth.
I'd use plywood as a substrate...
are you gluing it or using any screws?
I did one with cement backer, and glued it with construction adhesive and it's still there and looking like the day it went in.
Did it behind the stove. I put it right over drywall using pl400 or some other adhesive that worked with metal. Make sure you clean the metal with acetone to get all of the oils off of it before adhering it. Oh yea I also put a couple of nails in an unseen spot (predrilled) in order to prevent adhesive creep then failure.
A big area with Stainless..... Eh the 3 foot square slab I have gets a lot of splatter & spatter. The finish makes it easy to clean but tough to keep looking pretty. Ever own a SS fridge? Fingerprints etc are a pain. On a fridge you can clean it (daily)with your elbow right up next to the fridge. On a backsplash you lean over 24" or so to wipe it down and make it look pretty.
In short, It is gorgeous but I don't think I'd do it again. Clean is nice but this is a high maintenance product to keep "looking" clean.
In short, It is gorgeous but I don't think I'd do it again. Clean is nice but this is a high maintenance product to keep "looking" clean.
What about a brushed finish, does that still show the fingerprints and such?jt8
The reason so many people never get anywhere in life is because when opportunity knocks, they are out in the backyard looking for four-leaf clovers.-- Walter Percy Chrysler
Yes,
It is the reflective quality that makes it show the surface contamination. I had a 4x Finish on mine (fine brushed) and it is the way it is. If it was rougher it would be a bear to clean. Too fine or just a buffed finish and it looks dull & flat.
It looks fine brushed but the cleaning is a bit of a pain. I can easily tell when the stove has been used to fry. I get to clean it.
Just talk to someone with a SS front fridge. They'll tell you.
Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?
Hi there...I did the same thing in my kitchen about 2 years ago and have been told it looks 'mint!'. I had a local metal fabricator supply the material and he cut out all the outlets for me based on my measurements.
I glued it to simple drywall using an aerosol spray adhesive from 3M called "Hi-Strength 90". This is what the owner recommended and it worked. You have to be very accurate with this product as it sets up almost instantly so do a couple dry runs first.
The nice part about this product is that it goes on without creating any 'ripples' or imperfections that might be visible with a caulking type adhesive that is put on a little too thick.
I've included some pics..hope this helps.
Mike
It's not a high moisture area, don't think the cement board is needed. Green should work fine.
What is the material on the countertop and how will the joint be sealed between the s/s and the counter?
The counter is wood. I have not thought about the transition. I am now thinking of a bead of silicone. But is that to cheap looking. Do you have any ideas?
Thanks.
I am kind of an old fashioned guy. I like the stainless steel cove that used to be used all the time. I think it is out of favor now with the current decorators. Silicone would not be my choice. See what other people say. Don
easiest way is to cut and fit 1/4 plywood to a perfect fit then laminate the plywood with a "metal" laminate, wilsonart has many that are actually aluminum on a laminate backing similar to regular plastic laminate
caulking is not a piece of trim